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Stuck tailstock.

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  • Stuck tailstock.

    I got the tailstock on my HUGE Cinncinatti frozen. I have tried since the machine got delivered to loose it. Machine sat outside for some time before it was delivered.

    I have used heat, penetrating oil, removed the threaded wheel and threaded bearing retainer. I hit it with a hammer till I winced (cast iron) I put a brass rod up in it and knocked it around. Still stuck.

    It weighs about seven hundred plus pounds. Sure makes a very large lathe less useful.

    ANy ideal on how to free it?


  • #2
    are you talking about the tailstock ram?


    • #3
      Can you get a large threaded rod thru the barrel?
      If so a couple of heavy washers and a couple of nuts to act as an extractor thread.
      Try moving it one way then the other.
      Plenty of lube, remove the clamp arangement to get more lube in and the locating key if possible, all depends on design.
      Even go as far as to leave the load on the thread and smack it with a hammer, leave and come back to it later and try to get more torque on the thread and another smack. Keep the torque on it. It often starts to creep after a while.

      John S.

      [This message has been edited by John Stevenson (edited 01-01-2004).]

      Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.


      • #4
        Get a length of the largest diameter threaded rod that will fit through the bore.

        Put the rod through, put a nut and heavy washer on the handle end, put a piece of pipe with a bore larger than the OD of the ram over the ram , place appropriate washers on the end and a nut. Start tightening down. If it doesn't move,
        then try heating while you keep the pressure on
        and set up vibration with a dead blow or lead hammer. Of course use whatever penetrating oil that has worked for you.

        If this fails, then you can try mounting in a large hydraulic press. You may have to weld up a suitable stand to hold it though.


        • #5
          So far, the first foot of the lathe has been used. TO chuck up harley rims and spin polish them.

          Kills me.

          I will try the threaded rod ideal. Maybe cut a bushing piece to fit oven the threads. The chain and bottle jack sounds like a good ideal too. (who was that masked mad man?) I exploded one bottle jack, did you ever know you can't just put them anywhere? you have to have a solid base? the cast iron jack breaks all to heck.

          I pulled a new electrical service to the lathe today too.



          • #6
            I hate giving out my restoration trade secrets but if that banging, heating and screwing doesn't work, sqirt some "Jack Oil" on it and let it sit for an hour.


            • #7

              wd40 about six months ago. This is a sometimes project. I know a friend with a old harley engine down in a barrel of oil. Been there since the late sixties so he says.

              The stuck harley I bought I took the heads off, suspended the motor by the cylinders and put a hardwood block in and beat the piston out. Was not much piston left, rebuilt the bottom end, bored top end and it was fine. I guess it was not stuck as bad as his is/was thou? maybe? I think he thinks it will be alright?

              rust moves/removes metal, changes metal, welds metal. I guess I would like a all purpose spray to remove it completely?

              Got to take the shop alarm to the vet. (shots)


              • #8
                Looks like John Stevenson types faster than me

                A molecule of rust is larger than an iron molecule. When iron rusts it must push out thereby exposing more iron to oxygen, promoting further rusting until it completely decrepitates.

                Phosphoric acid will convert rust to a phosphate, which protects against further rusting. If you can't find it (usually labelled naval jelly) , Cola contains a good amount of phosphoric acid. However it also contains other acid, which makes it quite corrosive.


                • #9
                  "Looks like John Stevenson types faster than me "

                  No just 5 or so hours ahead of you , so you beat me by 4 hours and 50 minutes

                  John S.

                  Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.


                  • #10

                    If I can't get the tailstock freed up, how about cutting the lathe about three feet from the chuck, making a 24"diax12"bed lathe?

                    Is there such a animal? "As is" this beast takes up about 1/8th of my floor space.

                    David, (chop saw in hand)


                    • #11
                      Jack oil, or PB Blaster. I have freed many an item with PB Blaster and also HAVING THE PATIENCE to let this stuff work. Also, the most hidden of all items you would never think to use......JOHNSONS BABY OIL!!!!!

                      Is this the quill, or the whole tailstock assembly? If the quill, fill a injection oiler full of PB and squirt it in the oil holes, you may ecen have to remove the oiler "balls". remove all items - handwheels, andsuch right to the quill itself. If the whole assembly on the ways, take what you can apart first, maybe removing the bottom base. Lift upwards with a pry bar with a piece of 2 x 4 between the assembly and the bar. I had a leblond I rebuilt with the tailstock Assy. rusted right to the ways. Had to pry the bottom off then the top off in this manner. I actually used BABY OIL in this action.

                      Baby oil is now a common item in all of my shops. Something about it, it is smooth and tends to get into everything.....
                      CCBW, MAH


                      • #12
                        I know this is gonna sound stupid, but have you tried loosen any bolts first? some have been known to hold a quill in one position or the entire tailstock for that matter. once you lossen it, damn thing moves - just like magic!

                        HAVE YOU SWORE AT IT GOOD YET?
                        I couldn't help myself bro' - honest!

                        [This message has been edited by Thrud (edited 01-04-2004).]


                        • #13
                          Hi Dave,

                          I have no doubt that you will solve this problem with one of the methods here or one of your own. I just can't quite visualize the problem. Can you post a picture?



                          • #14

                            Not only have I swore at it, I beat it with a sledge hammer till I smelled the heat.
                            The internal taper sleeve is still stuck. I need to drop the whole shebang down in a 55 gallon drum of rust remover.



                            • #15
                              Another thought,

                              If you try the threaded rod idea, try an impact wrench to tighten down the nut. The impact may help to budge it. Once it moves a bit the penetrating oil will be able to get in.
                              It should be easier after that.