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Question for the woodworkers among us

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  • Question for the woodworkers among us

    I know, I know---its a MACHINISTS forum.But please forgive my transgressions. Wife and I are into a kitchen renovation, and she wants the light on the wall above the sink to become a ceiling light. I have no access to the attic in the area above the sink, but have managed to bury the electical cord in the drywall so that it comes out at the very top of the wall. I want to build a cantilever stut that extends about 16" out from the wall, bury the cord inside it, and give her a ceiling mounted light, hanging from the strut. Left to my own devices, I would make it from 2 x 6 pine, but I don't want any grain to show when it is painted the same colour as the ceiling. Is there a better wood to use that will not show grain as badly?---Brian
    Last edited by brian Rupnow; 03-09-2011, 03:29 PM.
    Brian Rupnow

  • #2
    Poplar would be a good alternative.

    In fact I'd reach for it before pine anyway. ...tho I guess it depends on the type of pine you have in your neck of the woods.

    ,,,ahhmm, speaking of "neck of the woods", I'm not sure of the range of poplar in the north. Not sure if you'd find it there in Canada or not. I'm sure there are other fairly soft, grain benign hardwood (i.e. deciduous) species native there. ...maybe aspen???
    Last edited by lynnl; 03-09-2011, 03:31 PM.
    Lynn (Huntsville, AL)

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    • #3
      Brian,
      Only you can judge if the asthetics will satisfy you, But it really isn't that hard to "fish" wires. It can be time consuming and frustrating, But there's almost no job that is impossible. My opinions of course are just that, But I think if you do what you want it will always look exactly what it is. Just a way to hide the wires.

      Pete

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      • #4
        to be sure of teh no grain MDF or ply would probably be a better bet... ir cover the timber frame in mdf?

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        • #5
          I'd make it out of 4130

          In all seriousness, you could probably do it out of sheet metal and hit it with a good primer that will topcoat with latex paint (assuming that's what you are using in your kitchen). I suppose that's an awful lot of effort to go through, though.

          You could make it out of pine and then hit it with a high-solid primer like the stuff that you put on bare sheetrock before painting. Then lightly sand the primer after it is dry and it will hide the grain. I did that in my parents basement to in a couple of places and it turned out well.

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          • #6
            Brian, just make it out of whatever's to hand, sand it as smooth as you can get it (remembering to round off all the edges so the paint will stick), seal the grain with sanding sealer, sand lightly again, and use a high-build primer on it, sanding lightly between coats. When it's perfectly smooth, undercoat and topcoat as usual.
            You'll need to do this whatever timber you use, so don't fork out for something expensive.
            Last edited by Mike Burch; 03-09-2011, 03:53 PM.

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            • #7
              Well, seeing as I really hate working with wood,(mostly cuz I don't have the right tools) I would be machining that bracket out of some aluminum plate. No grain for sure.
              Ernie (VE7ERN)

              May the wind be always at your back

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              • #8
                Brian,

                X2 on the MDF. (medium density fiberboard)

                Not my favorite material but that job would be a good fit for it. Couple coats of primer and a couple coats of paint and you would be stylin.

                Brian
                OPEN EYES, OPEN EARS, OPEN MIND

                THINK HARDER

                BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

                MY NAME IS BRIAN AND I AM A TOOLOHOLIC

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                • #9
                  +3 on the mdf. Watered down (no too much just to thin it a bit) drywall mud makes a great edge filler for mdf. will swell it slightly, but can be sanded and smoothed down then painted to look plastic like.

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                  • #10
                    I've got a contractor/carpenter/painter working here and he votes for poplar as well. I will probably go with the poplar, as I don't need much of it. I would be a bit shy of MDF because its right over top of the kitchen sink and dishwasher, and I've had problems in the past with MDF around moisture. Probably my information/experience is out of date---I'm sure they have better resins now than they did the last time I used MDF, which was about 15 years ago.
                    Brian Rupnow

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                    • #11
                      I think any fine grained trim grade wood would be OK. Or, you might try 1 by pine and cover it with sheetrock. Or just bash a hole through the ceiling drywall and run the cord (romex?) to a junction box, and spackle-patch what mess you made.


                      Gary
                      Gary


                      Appearance is Everything...

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                      • #12
                        Goose--The area in question is right at the outer wall of the house, on a single story building with 18" of blown in rockwool insulation. The house has beautifull plastered ceilings. I weigh 260 pounds and although I MIGHT be able to squeeze thru the trap door into the attic and swim thru the rockwool to the edge of the attic space, its pretty damn doubtfull that me or the plastered ceilings would survive. As for fishing wires, yes, I could possibly do that, but the Ontario hydro code calls for a junction box attached to the ceiling joists to connect any wire to. My ceiling joists are not centered over the sink. I have convinced the wife that my cantilever strut idea will work, and she likes the design.
                        Brian Rupnow

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by brian Rupnow
                          I have convinced the wife.....and she likes the design.
                          If there's one thing in life that I've figured out so far is that the above is all that matters.

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                          • #14
                            Poplar probably is your best bet, easy to cut, sands very smooth, fairly tight grain. Totally hiding the grain is a function of lots of paint and sanding between coats. It really won't take real long if you use water based paint. It might seem like you're not getting anywhere but then all of a sudden the grain goes away.
                            Have faith, wood is not poisonous or anything! (OK, most of it isn't...)
                            Tom Hintz, owner
                            www.newmetalworker.com
                            www.newwoodworker.com

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by brian Rupnow
                              ................................... I have convinced the wife that my cantilever strut idea will work, and she likes the design.
                              You know Brian, lights are way over rated. There's a lot to be said for learning to feel your way around in the dark. But if you insist on pursuing this endeavor I would also opt for Popular. MDF, cardboard, particle board and such are just a slick way of plywood manufactures to get rid of their waste. I don't even like mdf for roofing! Show some class and pop about eight bucks for a piece of popular !!
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