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  • Router bit

    I have a need for a router bit, not so much for cutting but rather for cleaning up the tongue and groove on some vintage flooring I am re-installing in my house. Would 01 oil hardening work worth a hoot in this application. The other material I have redily available is A2.
    Video meliora proboque deteriora sequor

    www.garagegunsmithing.com

  • #2
    Router Bit

    Either one would work, I would go with the A2, less likely to warp during quenching. You can get some pretty good carbide tipped router bits for not much these days if you can find the right size and shape.

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    • #3
      Are you planning on cutting a groove in it or something so it fits around the tongue, or a cutter to fit in the groove?

      Either way, why not take a cheap, straight carbide bit and either cut a groove in it or just leave enough of it to fit in the groove using something like a dremel or die grinder with a cutting wheel (I'd be tempted to spin it slowely while doing it but I hesitate to just because someone will do that and stick their hand in it...). Carbide will cut through most floor nails...

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      • #4
        Vintage flooring- is that wood or a laminate product? If the latter, carbide is the only way to go. Carbon steel will last about 6 seconds or 6 feet, whichever comes first.
        I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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        • #5
          The flooring is 90+ year old Heart Pine. Before I popped it up, there was between 1/16" and 1/8" between the boards. This caused the gaps to fill with 90 years worth of dirt and crud. My plan is to make two bits, one for the tongue and one for the groove and maybe deepen each side .050" or so into new wood just for fun to make all the boards consistant with sharp, new edges for re-installation. I want to start with the groove edge, running it across a jointer to straigten that edge. Then I would re-cut the groove. After that side is done, I would use the true edge to re-cut the tongue.

          Because of some patching done by the previous "craftsman", I don't have quite enough flooring to cover the floor so I am doing a medalion in the middle of the room from contrasting wood. The medalion is only 49 square feet. For that, I need to plane that wood down to match whatever the original floor yeilds out after planing all of that down to a consistant thickness... probably about .685" - .700" by the time I get them all clean and even.
          Video meliora proboque deteriora sequor

          www.garagegunsmithing.com

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          • #6
            Tongue & groove router bits at Woodcraft are $49.99. If your making T&G flooring your going to be cutting many many feet of wood. I would think carbide router bits would last a lot longer than O1 or A2.

            Bob

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Cobbler
              Because of some patching done by the previous "craftsman", I don't have quite enough flooring to cover the floor so I am doing a medalion in the middle of the room from contrasting wood. The medalion is only 49 square feet.
              Another option would be a ring around the room, likey be very thin since around the outside is lots of square feet, and mainly covered up by furnature. (10x10 foot room would only be about 1.2' wide ring to make 49^2 feet, as opposed to a 7x7 foot square)

              One final option could be just at either end of the room, having boards go 90 degrees to the existing boards. Can add a nice touch, But likey depends on if it matchs the room layout or not.
              Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

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              • #8
                If your sure you want to custom grind your own router bits, try these blanks:

                https://www.forestcitytool.biz/produ...=147&cat_id=19

                These folks have been in the business for a long time, and their stuff is top quality. The router bit blanks are a bit pricey, but it saves a lot of time and you can be sure that the shanks are accurately ground and the heat treating is right.

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                • #9
                  Hmmmm..........

                  I'm currently doing a similar floor job, except I'm using salvaged, vintage T&G flooring to patch the hole where a chimney went through. And repairing some bad areas by replacing a strip here and there.

                  My vintage flooring as originally installed also had gaps which were filled with old varnish, grits, dirt and whatever.

                  I set up a carbide rabbeting bit in the router table to skim cut the debris off the tongue edge and to cut off the bottom of the grooved edge so it would drop in nicely.

                  All nails had been removed. Running the carbide bit there was a fair amount of micro sparking removing the accumulated debris.

                  I doubt very much a plain steel bit would hold up at all for this operation.

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