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  • Keeping instruments, small tools, safe...

    I moved this from another topic where it was really out of place.

    Here I describe to how to make inserts for drawers etc to keep instruments such as DTIs and Mics safe when not being used.


    I did not take pictures when I last made one but it is easy to make really classy looking drawer and box inserts to house treasured items.

    This is what I did, as I say there are no pictures apologies about that.

    First off make a shallow wooden box that is deep enough to hold your items and a neat fit inside the drawer or tool box. Thin plywood is plenty good enought for this. Drill holes, 1/4" or so at 2" grid spacing over the bottom of the box.

    Get some knitted cotton as used to make t-shirts, the colour is your choice. Carefully spread this loosely over the top of the box and glue it down the sides. It must be secure and avoid wrinkles. Spray it lightly with water and set aside, you want it damp(ish) not dripping wet.

    Now get your treasured items and spread them on a flat surface arranged how your prefer. Cover them with a layer of cling film but leave it slack.

    Now, turn your box upside down and place it over the items and reach for your can of expanding polyurethane foam. This is the stuff they sell for filling gaps around draughty window frames etc.

    Inject foam into the holes and squirt it around to ensure the space above your items gets really filled and you dont want any voids. Pretty soon it will start oozing out of the holes so slap a sheet of metal, board or whatever on and weight the whole business down. If you used thin plywood you should brace the sides as there is quite a bit of pressure exerted by the expanding foam.

    Now relax, tomorrow you will have a nicely formed insert for your tool drawer (in the colour of your old t-shirt).

    I specified putting cling film over the items but I have never found this necessary, and I have made a few inserts for optical items in my telescope cases, as the foam does not penetrate the knitted cotton. Dampening the fabric accelerates curing of the polyurethan and it might be what stops the foam pushing through the fabric.

    Note that because the items were put on a flat surface your finished drawer insert will provide a flat top surface even when the items are in place giving the possibility of stacking inserts, but I have never done this.

  • #2
    very cool idea .....now I know what I going to do this weekend
    Thanks for the post
    If you are using violence and it does not work, You are not using enough or it is upside down.
    You can always just EDM it...

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    • #3
      Neat idea. It'd be nice to see how it looks.

      Thank you, TAB.

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      • #4
        I was always under the impression that that spray foam had some nasty chemicals in it that promoted corrosion. Does any one know better?

        Randy
        Do yourself a favor and see if your TV carrier has America One News Network (AONN). 208 on Uverse. It is good old fashion news, unlike the networks, with no hype, bias or other BS.

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        • #5
          Isocyanates?

          Originally posted by randyjaco
          I was always under the impression that that spray foam had some nasty chemicals in it that promoted corrosion. Does any one know better?

          Randy
          You're probably thinking of silicone caulk that cures with acetic acid? Mostly harmless on ceramic tile, not good for steel.

          Spray foam is a pretty wide term containing lots of things, but you're probably talking about isocyanate and resin stuff, supposedly inert once cured and terribly toxic until cured. Treat it like those exotic paints, where the pros wear space suits when applying it, but once it cures its not going to do much. In fact its very much like those exotic paints where you can screw around with it all day with no effect and then suddenly your body sensitizes to it and you get asthma symptoms, which is kinda a bummer.

          The pro insulation guys spray it over steel electrical conduit, so best case is its nonreactive, worst case the pro insulation guys don't care.

          The biggest problem I see is that stuff isn't mechanically durable, and you'll rapidly find all moving parts have little broken down bits of foam jammed in them.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by vincemulhollon
            You're probably thinking of silicone caulk that cures with acetic acid? Mostly harmless on ceramic tile, not good for steel.

            Spray foam is a pretty wide term containing lots of things, but you're probably talking about isocyanate and resin stuff, supposedly inert once cured and terribly toxic until cured.
            I said use polyurethane foam

            Treat it like those exotic paints, where the pros wear space suits when applying it, but once it cures its not going to do much. In fact its very much like those exotic paints where you can screw around with it all day with no effect and then suddenly your body sensitizes to it and you get asthma symptoms, which is kinda a bummer.

            The pro insulation guys spray it over steel electrical conduit, so best case is its nonreactive, worst case the pro insulation guys don't care.
            Like I said, it is polyurethane foam and is chemically inert when reacted, the only danger to health is that it might stick to careless fingers and whatever hazard there is from the hydrocarbon propellant which drives it from the can. Dont burn the foam.

            The biggest problem I see is that stuff isn't mechanically durable, and you'll rapidly find all moving parts have little broken down bits of foam jammed in them.
            Errrrr...ummm..... thats what the t-shirt fabric is all about.


            N.B. Dihydrogen monoxide can be used to hasten the reaction but be especially carefully handling this stuff, not only does it cause corrosion but it can cause death if inhaled.
            Last edited by The Artful Bodger; 04-03-2011, 06:46 PM.

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            • #7
              Dihydrohen monoxide is serious stuff dude, highly corrosive, destructive and kills thousands every year, causes serious habitat destruction and cost billions every year to deal with... should be avoided at all costs

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              • #8
                I should have seen your thread, we're on the same page. d'oh!

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                • #9
                  To avoid the hazards of dihydrogen monoxide, I suggest using hydrogen hydroxide.

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                  • #10
                    Nice idea.

                    Might I suggest it for an article (one page or so) for the HSM mag? If you don't have time maybe a few pictures to this thread?
                    "Work hard. Tell everyone everything you know. Close a deal with a handshake. Have fun!"

                    -- Harold "Doc" Edgerton

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                    • #11
                      dihydrogen monoxide ravaged japan recently and nearly caused the reactors to melt down -_-;
                      Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by RKW
                        Nice idea.

                        Might I suggest it for an article (one page or so) for the HSM mag? If you don't have time maybe a few pictures to this thread?
                        It just so happens that I do need to make a couple more inserts in the near future, I could have started one today but have none of the foam.. maybe when the environmental oxidane levels subside.....

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Black_Moons
                          dihydrogen monoxide ravaged japan recently and nearly caused the reactors to melt down -_-;
                          although oddly enough the exact same product is used to prevent just that eventuality

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                          • #14
                            The foam you used, is it brittle?

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Elninio
                              The foam you used, is it brittle?
                              It feels quite firm under the fabric.

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