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    This is my latest project. I bought a POS drill press for $30 US from Canadian Tire, must be the equivalent of HF in the US. I think I voided the warranty when I sawed the head in half. This is a drilling attachment as well as a tool post grinder. The motor is 1/4 hp and it will turn up to 3150 rpms. For $30 bucks and a bit of work it should be useful.

    [This message has been edited by Evan (edited 12-22-2003).]
    Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

  • #2
    Gnarly Dude!

    Scary stuff - better put a belt guard on before the grandsons come around though.

    Hey, take it back the pieces you don't need just to see the look on their faces when you try to return it...

    tell them "there's something wrong with it - won't drill"


    • #3
      I'll give you $50US for it. :0

      Happy Holidays,



      • #4
        Yeah, Thrud. I will see of I can fit the original belt cover/guard on it. Never mind the grandsons, I need all my fingers for a while yet!!
        Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here


        • #5

          Cheaper than the bearings that I'm considering for a secondary spindle...I'll have to consider your way!


          • #6
            Hey Evan,

            Nice pics. Cool project. Where do you find the time....



            • #7
              Very ingenious! Are you going to make some kind of quill lock for it? Most of the Crappy Tire POS drills that I have looked at have a lot of slack in the quill.

              BTW, That is going to be one slick rigg when combined with your dividing system to drill circular hole patterns.

              Have to go now, i'm off to Crappy Tire.

              Below are some bad photos of the quill lock that I once made for a POS drill.



              [This message has been edited by G.A. Ewen (edited 12-22-2003).]
              To invent, you need a good imagination - and a pile of junk. Thomas A. Edison


              • #8
                Looks pretty cool, I know I'm half a moron....but what's it for exactly?.....I still don't know what a tool post grinder is for, and don't know why you'd need a drilling attatchment when the lathe acts as a drill.

                Sorry for my ignorance, this just isn't as evident to my limited mind as other disrespect intended.



                • #9
                  Creative setup Evan. Nice job.

                  ZINOM, a toolpost grinder is mounted on the cross slide in place of a toolholder.

                  I leave one setup on a lathe just about all the time and use it to grind ID's on die rings and OD's on punches.
                  It is about the only way to take to dimension a punch or die ring that has been built up with weld.

                  The interrupted cutting of weld bead will trash cutting tools very quickly. Very easy to grind them.

                  That is my use of a toolpost grinder.



                  • #10
                    Cool. I made holding attachments for a 5" angle grinder, a cheap 5" bench grinder and a genuine toolpost grinder with integral motor.

                    Now I only need to do the Dremel and maybe the chainsaw.

                    I remember when Canaydjun Tyre actually sold tires (and guns)...they don't anymore, do they? Just junk.

                    [This message has been edited by Dr. Rob (edited 12-22-2003).]


                    • #11
                      L Webb wrote: "It is about the only way to take to dimension a punch or die ring that has been built up with weld."


                      Could you tell us a little more about welding dies? What type filler metal? Arc, TIG? Heat treatment after welding?

                      I've got a couple of dies that need some rework and not sure how to proceed.



                      • #12

                        The lathe may be used to drill holes by holding drill bits either in the chuck, a collet or by using morse taper drills in the spindle. The work is backed up by a tailstock drilling adapter which is a flat circular plate on the end of a morse taper that fits in the tailstock. The tailstock quill is used to feed the work into the drill.

                        This accessory is for precision drilling of holes, especially in a circular pattern with the dividing attachment I made. I intend to build a dividing head and this is one of the reasons I built this gadget. It also can be used to drill precision holes in just about anything that can be chucked on the spindle of the lathe.

                        When I installed the drill press head I aligned it to the lathe centerline as you can see in the first photo. Gripped in the jacobs chuck is a piece of 1/2" steel with the end center drilled, bearing on a center in the lathe spindle. the back end of the drill press spindle is also center drilled and this provides a convenient spot for a center in the tailstock to align the entire rig. The drill head is attached to the base plate by means of four grade eight bolts that fit to a chunk of aluminum bolted to the base plate inside the drill head.

                        Runout is less than .001. Alignment with lathe centerline is better than .001 over the length of the test rod chucked in the drill chuck, both on top and on the side.

                        As a tool post grinder the drill is fitted with a 4" borozon wheel that I just happen to have courtesy of my wife

                        Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here


                        • #13
                          Hey man! Aren't you supposed to buy the wife the 'diamonds', not the other way 'round!!



                          • #14
                            I wish I could give you the details DR, but I can't.
                            I don't do the welding or heat treat.
                            They are TIG welded. The guy who used to do them would pick them up and deliver them back ready to be ground back to size.

                            I haven't had one done in probably four years.
                            I have many die sets on the shelf that were welded long before I got here. Most are probably in the 3" to 10" range. It was very common to rework punches and dies with welding back in the very busy days.

                            Sometimes I will take an odd size set and rework it to a different size. If the punch/ die ring had been welded in the past, it is a bitch to hard turn to size due to varying hardness in the weld areas. Also, one void will trash an expensive insert.

                            Since I have a cheap source of tool steel, it is usually easier and cheaper to just make a new one.



                            • #15
                              Evan will take synthetic industrial diamond...probably better not to try that with the wife!

                              I hear there are some pretty good stones up there in the North Territory...


                              <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Ragarsed Raglan:
                              Hey man! Aren't you supposed to buy the wife the 'diamonds', not the other way 'round!!