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Brown and Sharpe 9 to Jacobs 2 ?

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  • Brown and Sharpe 9 to Jacobs 2 ?

    Im looking for a B & S 9 taper to a Jacobs 2 taper. Could this be made? I have searched all over for a solution and came up empty.

    I have a old Index mill with a b&s 9. I have no way to chuck up a key-less drill chuck in it for drilling holes. Any thoughts, suggestions?

    And no I dont want to do a spindle re-grind, I have plenty of other tooling, I just need a means to hold a drill chuck. Thanks!
    Feel free to put me on ignore....

  • #2
    You could get a chuck with a straight shank and hold it in one of your collets.
    Stuart de Haro

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    • #3
      I am doing that now, it puts my table way down low and if im drilling a big part, I run into not enough room issues...
      Feel free to put me on ignore....

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      • #4
        Not to mention you might run into rigidity issues using a straight shank. If you have a lathe, turning a new arbor should be fairly straight forward. Inquire further if you need assistance with this.
        "I am, and ever will be, a white-socks, pocket-protector, nerdy engineer -- born under the second law of thermodynamics, steeped in the steam tables, in love with free-body diagrams, transformed by Laplace, and propelled by compressible flow."

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        • #5
          Here's a chart with all the pertinent details for B&S tapers:

          http://www.shopswarf.com/b&staper.html
          Stuart de Haro

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          • #6
            I just sold a bunch of BS9 adapters a couple months ago. I'll look if I have another, but I doubt it. You might consider getting a set of BS9 collets and use a drill chuck with a 1/2" strait shank, or a Weldon style end mill holder might do the trick as well. If you look hard enough, you can find BS9 collet holders that take various types of collets, and again use a straight shank on the chuck. I've done that for years and I can easily switch the chuck between three machines that use different tapers.

            Rigidity should not be a problem for drilling because the force is all axial. I wouldn't suggest using the drill chuck to hold an end mill and hog out some 4140 though.

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            • #7
              Don't understand how you would lose (much or any at all, "daylight") capacity with a 1/2" chuck on a straight shank arbor in a 1/2" B&S collet. Maybe you need to spot your holes on the mill and move drilling operation off the mill and onto a good drillpress.

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              • #8
                Take a piece of steel chuck it in lathe and just turn one up. Run it between centers . Problem solved.
                Every Mans Work Is A Portrait of Him Self
                http://sites.google.com/site/machinistsite/TWO-BUDDIES
                http://s178.photobucket.com/user/lan...?sort=3&page=1

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