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Silver soldering/brazing HSS

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  • Silver soldering/brazing HSS

    Simple question really. If I make a tool by silver soldering or brazing some HSS to a mild steel shank - will it adversely affect the cutting properties of the HSS?
    Peter - novice home machinist, modern motorcycle enthusiast.

    Denford Viceroy 280 Synchro (11 x 24)
    Herbert 0V adapted to R8 by 'Sir John'.
    Monarch 10EE 1942

  • #2
    Used to do it all the time. Yes plain ol HSS like M2 may lose a little hardness from brazing heat. There's all the difference in the world between the edge life at Rc 58 and Rc 62. I've found that M42 (cobalt HSS) will hold its hardness quite well if you braze quick.

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    • #3
      Bit OT...

      Found this site (sure others have it on their lists as well, new to me),
      tons of useful info in one place.

      http://www.simplytoolsteel.com/index.html

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      • #4
        I suggest using as low a temp silver braze as possible. HSS is tempered at about 1000؛. It might be a bit inclined to decarberize,too. I'm not sure of that for a brazing temp,but it definitely has to be protected from air when hardening(at a much higher temp.)

        I recall seeing many years ago,a picture of a HSS cutting tool that was cutting steel in a lathe while being heated red hot with a torch. Caption was "Red hot and still cuts."

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        • #5
          I would think you could quench it while it's still hot after brazing it on and get the hardness back.
          It's only ink and paper

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          • #6
            Peter
            I do it all the time, just use a broken tap or end mill and silver solder, use the lowest temp grade, and there you are. Easy to make boring bars.
            Alan

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            • #7
              I don't think you quench HSS. It is most likely to crack to pieces as it is an air hardening steel.

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              • #8
                I have hundreds of small pieces of HSS, including a few odd-shaped bits stellite, which I cannot put into a holder. I was thinking of using some short parts and brazing them to holders to make 'throw-away' tangential cutters and the like.

                Thanks for the replies - I'll let you all know how I get on.

                Pete.
                Peter - novice home machinist, modern motorcycle enthusiast.

                Denford Viceroy 280 Synchro (11 x 24)
                Herbert 0V adapted to R8 by 'Sir John'.
                Monarch 10EE 1942

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                • #9
                  For what its worth a couple of thoughts:

                  what you are doing is far closer to jewelry work than "regular" brazing (I'm thinking in terms of size and how when heating it will shift from just right to too hot in a blink)

                  it maybe worth considering using "foil" as opposed to rods for this type of brazing (not saying it can't be done a few other ways but the "foil" is very controlled in placement and can act, sort of, like its own temperature indicator)

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