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Grizzly 10x22 Lathe Owners: Happy or Not?

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  • Grizzly 10x22 Lathe Owners: Happy or Not?

    I see there are several owners of the Grizzley G0602 10x22 lathe and wondered what you think of them now that you have owned them for a while.

    What do YOU like and dislike about them?

    Thank you

  • #2
    I love mine.

    Has the power i need. Low cost. Great size for my basement setup.
    I use carbide cutters most of the time and turn 316 stainless steel most of the time. Also use it for other steels and aluminum.

    Oil leaks out of the gearbox.
    I oiled the main bearings and that washed out all the grease from the spindle bearings. It still seems to work fine but I oil the main bearings every time i use it and I can see oil leaking out of the bearings when i oil it. The olny thing that saves me from burning out the bearings is that i don't use it for very long periods of time and i oil it every time i use it.
    I'm an abstract poet and I didn't even think I was.


    • #3
      Pretty happy with mine. It has a few issues I need to address but I have been able to work anything I needed to that would actually fit on it. It's still a small machine though and it lets you know that at times.

      - Has good power and runs quiet.
      - I can use carbide tools to good effect.
      - I can take .1 to .125" cuts with my hack HSS tools that I butcher myself at home.
      - Pretty decent spindle speeds.
      - Lots of included accessories.
      - Affordable and a good large sized bench lathe.
      - Spindle run-out is almost nil.
      - 1'' spindle bore is very handy.
      - 3 Jaw chuck is actually pretty decent on mine.
      - Runs circles around the the 7X lathes that are more common.

      - Tail stock is not well aligned. The ram extends at an ever-so-slight angle and it's too far above center for my taste.
      - 4 Jaw seems to grip stock at an angle causing coning. Can't machine anything long in the 4 jaw without inducing a wobble on the far end.
      - Change gears are not fun to mess with.
      - No running the carriage in reverse with power feed.
      - Leadscrew threads somehow 'imprint' into the surface of the work on power feed. Really shows up in boring. Have not been able to solve this.
      - Compound mount is not real ridgid.
      - Too much concave in facing cuts.
      - Lots of China butter bolts that strip out when you try to secure things.

      The beating required to remove the 3 jaw from the spindle from the factory is just $%@$%# retarded. It took 2 days for me to find a way to do it without bending tools or damaging the spanner holes in the spindle. I have no idea why in hell it has to be put on like that.

      Going to be the same deal when it comes time to replace bearings. I could not even induce "end-play" by hammering the spindle forward with the lock nuts removed. Going to have to rig some kind of threaded puller to get it out.
      Last edited by photomankc; 06-15-2011, 03:58 PM.


      • #4
        Great feedback. Thank you.

        Keep it coming.


        • #5
          I have had the King Industrial version for about ten years now and have been very happy with it.
          Grizzly did not have their version of the 10x22 out yet at the time or I would have purchased it instead.
          The price of the Grizzly version is almost half of what I paid and I consider the Grizzly lathes a bargain for the price. The lathe has a work envelope that covers most of the work found in a small home shop. There are times when I could use a lathe with a 16" or 20" swing but to be honest it does not come up often enough to be practical. But after having used lathes in $15-$20,000 range I must say they are nice!!!
          If I wasn't married.....

          Although it is capable of some very accurate work it does need a bit of fine tuning, nothing too elaborate or expensive though. Probably the biggest sore point with lathes in this price range is the lack of a speed that is slow enough to turn large diameter work or to thread coarse threads...especially into a blind hole!
          Other than tooling, this last issue will probably cost the most to rectify, as it will mean changing over to a 3ph motor and a VFD, but well worth it.

          As far as cost of maintaining the lathe goes, it has been virtually trouble free. I keep things clean and well oiled and have had no issues yet, and this is after 10 years of some pretty steady use.

          You may find additional info on Yahoo's 10x22 lathe site.
          Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
          Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​


          • #6
            Originally posted by photomankc
            Pretty happy with mine. It has a few issues I need to address but I have been able to work anything I needed to that would actually fit on it. It's still a small machine though and it lets you know that at times.

            Stuff snupped...

            - Leadscrew threads somehow 'imprint' into the surface of the work on power feed. Really shows up in boring. Have not been able to solve this.
            I hope this does not come across as a thread hijack but, it may be helpful for 10-22 owners...

            I have an old Atlas TH42 that does the same thing ---imprints the leadscrew on the workpiece. I've found ways to mitigate but not totally eliminate the problem. The issue is certainly coming from interaction with the leadscrew. As a test, I rigged-up a slow gear-motor to the hand crank and the imprinting stopped.

            See if the leadscrew is at all bent. This resolves most of the problem. Bending it back is not easy and requires a known, good flat surface.

            Clean the leadscrew and half nuts of all swaf.

            Make sure the half nuts are installed and seated properly and engage the leadscrew at the proper height.

            Make sure the leadscrew is horizontal relative to the carriage/apron (i.e not bowed or at an angle).

            Make sure the carriage gibs are properly set/snugged. If your ways are worn, to the point of them being bowed, you won't be able to adjust the jibs 100%.

            If your leadscrew is slotted (to drive the compound) check the gear/sleeve that rides in that slot. If the key is worn, it catches on the edges of the interrupted threads.

            Deeper cuts tend not to show the problem whereas, very light cuts highlights it.

            My TH42 is from the 1950's and served most of it's life at the Bethlehem Steel Co. in PA. It was worn like a well-thumbed telephone book and it suffered from all the problems above. Doing all the above fixed the problem by say 85%. I finally resurfaced the ways and milled the carriage that gave another 10% improvement but, depending on the material and DoC, you can still faintly see it when you press a parallel to the workpiece. Sometimes it does not happen... One of life's mysteries that will be resolved with a newer/better lathe...


            • #7
              I haven't seen any import lathe that didn't leak oil from the gearbox,OR the main geared headstock,for that matter. My 16" Grizzly does,but it is very accurate. I wouldn't use it in a production shop,though.


              • #8
                The G0602 seems to be one of the better ones in its class. You might also take a look at the Lathemaster 9x30, about the same price and weight. A disadvantage in comparison would appear to be the lack of a quick change gear box, but the quick change gearbox on the G0602 is more marketing gimmick than reality. The 9x30 gives you a longer bed and the G0602 gives you a larger spindle bore, both highly desirable features. The 9x30 claims to be practically ready to machine out of the box rather than needing a rebuild. The 9x30 uses metal gears, the G0602 seems to use plastic. Both have inch leadscrews (no thread dial on metric).

                If quick change gearbox is a selling point for you, before getting any china/tawain import (or even US/european) machine with "quick change" gearbox, study the threading chart carefully. It often isn't as quick a change as you might think. The gearing is still incomplete and still relies on change gears without the benefits of a full set of change gears. If it has enough gears per stage (they often don't) a two stage gear box can do a pretty reasonable job of imperial threads or metric but not both. Reason being that while the two may use many of the same ratios, they have to be set up to divide for one and multiply for the other. By trying to do both inch and metric they end up doing a very poor job of each and cutting corners makes it worse.

                I am not impressed by the quack change gearbox on the G0602. 8/16/32TPI require one set of change gears and 10/20/40/12/24/48TPI require another set of change gears. 9/18/36 is yet another set and 11/22/44 yet another. 13/26/52 is yet another. 14/28/56 is yet another. And 64 and 72 require another set each, though those can produce some useful sizes overlapping with those previously mentioned. That is 7 different change gear combinations to cover the 20 of the 21 standard UNC/UNF sizes (you don't get 80TPI). Statistically, there is only about a 15% probability that the current thread size you want uses the same change gears as the last thread size you cut if those sizes are picked at random. That can improve to 50% if you use primarily 4-40,6-32,8-32,10-32, and 1/4-20 machine screw sizes. Metric is a a whole 'nother can of worms requiring 5 more change gear combinations to cover 17 of the 22 standard metric pitches (it does cover everything under 3.5mm). And not only does it not have a tumbler reverse, it doesn't seem to have a provision for manually installing a reversing gear.

                The G0602 only has 3x3 (9) quick change combinations. The old 16" south bend quick change had 2x3x8 (48) combinations, which was enough to do all the imperial sizes (not metric) and more or less typical for a good old fashioned Norton or Flather gearbox machine. The G0602 basically has 1/2/4 and 5/6/7 ratios or some multiple thereof (with the 7 not working on imperial because it is 7x pitch not 7x TPI).

                The lathemaster change gears aren't all they could be, either. The lathemaster specs say it does 12 imperial sizes from 8 to 40. Someone else calculated (chart on lathemaster site) sizes from 9 to 80 including all standard sizes except 1/2"-13 and #5-44 using, in some cases, duplicate gears (i.e. you order a couple spare gears). Emphasis for that chart was minimizing number of gear change and may have missed some combinations. Lathemaster does sell gears from $8 to $13.50. They do sell a 52 tooth gear so you can probably find a combination to do 1/2-13 and the lathe includes a 33 tooth gear and a 66 is available so you can probably find a combination to do #5-44. Metric sizes don't appear to use a 127 tooth gear so it is an approximation.

                A change gear machine can be easier to do a CNC conversion on than a quick change.


                • #9

                  "The 9x30 uses metal gears, the G0602 seems to use plastic.."

                  I thought the G0602 used a single plastic sacrificial gear in the drive train?


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by tlfamm

                    "The 9x30 uses metal gears, the G0602 seems to use plastic.."

                    I thought the G0602 used a single plastic sacrificial gear in the drive train?

                    Correct. All the other gears are metal. While all the above on the change gears is true, I believe it's considered 'partial quick-change', I rarely ever have back to back threading jobs of different pitches that are not separated by the need to use power feed. Power feed requires you to change the gears anyway so there is almost never a time where I have the inch threading gear combos on the lathe long enough to worry about if they will cover the next threading need. I guess that is another argument against the partial quick change.
                    Last edited by photomankc; 06-16-2011, 10:36 AM.


                    • #11
                      I really appreciate your insights on this machine.
                      It is at the upper range of what I can afford, and I know I would not be happy (for long) with anything smaller.

                      I would prefer something with a quick change gearbox, but finding used iron in SE Idaho just doesn't happen, so I will adjust to changing gears to suit the job.

                      Now, if I can just find a way to get one that isn't backordered until 2012.


                      • #12
                        While the change gear issue is a real one, especially if you are doing a lot of different threads in rapid secession. But for me at least it has not been much of a problem. Most of the work I do usually only requires me to single point threads if I don't have a tap or die available. Again this is a variable dependent on each individual's needs.

                        Personally I don't worry about it too much. This is a $1100 entry level lathe aimed at someone relaxing at their chosen hobby, it's not aimed at a fast paced production environment.
                        So it takes a couple of minutes to change gears, big deal, it's a hobby right?

                        Fortunately I have not had any leadscrew imprint issues.

                        The one expendable "plastic" drive gear on my particular machine still looks like new after 10 years and countless hours of use. These types of gears have been used in automotive cam timing applications for decades, again I'm not going to loose any sleep over it.

                        I suppose Grizzly could address each of the lathes short comings, and I admit it does have a few, but then it's price would surely skyrocket past the $4700 of the Southbend 10K!
                        It's all about keeping things in perspective.
                        You want an $1100 dollar lathe with no issues, yeah right, smoke another one.
                        But seriously for it's price point this little machine does an admirable job of holding it's head high right out of the box. With a little fine tuning along with a few well placed dollars, it is capable of some very accurate work.
                        Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
                        Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​


                        • #13
                          My new G0602 should be here in a couple of weeks.
                          I will report back after it is cleaned and adjusted.

                          Thanks for all the feedback.



                          • #14
                            I agree with the advice to tighten your carriage down some. It must be moving somehow to imprint from the lead screw like that.

                            Ray's suggestions were all good.

                            My first DECENT lathe was a 10" X 24" Jet,but it was made in Taiwan back then,so I can't evaluate a Chinese lathe. Can you grind the inside of your chuck jaws with a toolpost grinder to get then parallel? Must run for now.


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by tlfamm View Post

                              "The 9x30 uses metal gears, the G0602 seems to use plastic.."

                              I thought the G0602 used a single plastic sacrificial gear in the drive train?
                              You are correct,the gears are metal except for the one plastic gear on the spindle.