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  • Aloris BXA - problems locking

    I have a Aloris BXA tool post on my lathe with about 20 tool holder. I hope to try to explain this and maybe there is something I'm missing.

    With one of the dovetails parallel to the chuck and the other dovetail towards the back of the lathe (parallel to ways), when I lock the tool holder in place the locking lever is about at 7-8 o-clock position. sometimes if the tool holder is turned to do some angle this locking level seems like it wants to hit the chuck. I would think in my original setup it should lock around the 4-5 o-clock position.

    Also the bottom of the wedges are very close to hitting the compound when it is fully tight. Most of the holder are original Aloris but some of them are Grizzly and all of them are about the same when I tighten it.

    I have read that you can take this apart but not sure what to fix - maybe grind off the bottom of the wedges so they don't hit and then is there an adjustment for the final position. My first thought was to drill and tap a new hole about 90° counter-clockwise?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    I have a Phase II QCTP and most my holders lock up at about 4 to 5 O'Clock. I have a few that go almost perpendicular to the work and they are from CDCO.


    The only reason I can think of causing your problem is the wedge is worn or the dovetail in the holders are worn or both are worn.

    Is yours a new QCTP or used?
    It's only ink and paper

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    • #3
      Why cant you change it for a bristol type lever, or shove a small ball bearing down under the lever enough to make it stop where you want it to. Alistair
      Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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      • #4
        It should lock up around 4-5 o'clock, there is something wrong, possibly the center bolt (the hollow bolt down the center of the tool post) has come loose.

        A few photos would help with the diagnosis.
        Last edited by dfw5914; 07-25-2011, 05:16 PM.

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        • #5
          CDCO tool holder clamp all around the clock, if they calmp at all.
          Mauro Gaetano
          In Austin TX

          munged email
          capialized need be replaced with symbols
          mauroUNDERSCOREgaetanoATearthlinkDOTnet

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          • #6
            For the tighter jobs, you could rotate the toolpost 90 degrees and use the 'facing' holder side for turning. that should adjust where the handle locks. Or you can just remove the handle as needed.

            Cheaper toolpost really should come with an extra handle hole taped or something, then the handle could be moved if needed.
            Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

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            • #7
              Before any drilling or grinding, fully disassemble, clean, and inspect.

              It may require fabricating a tool:


              Run a bolt thru it to keep the tool in place when breaking the initial torque if required:
              Last edited by dfw5914; 07-25-2011, 09:42 PM.

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              • #8
                Where is the 'start' position for the handle? My (Aloris) BXA has it's far most CCW position roughly at 2:30. If yours is the same but going through to 7-8 o'clock then the dovetails in the holders (or the wedge on the post) has worn somehow. If you are feeling like a bodge you could try gluing some shim onto the holder dovetail. It doesn't take much - a 0.2mm shim (8 thou) cuts the travel to clamp a tool by about 1/2. Typical travel seems to be around 60 degrees.
                If your starting position is say around 5 to 6 o'clock, then it sounds like something has moved inside. Looking at a cutaway view on the Aloris website, I can't think what that might be as the mechanism has only a few parts (unless the TP has been disassembled and the wedges have been indexed an extra tooth down on the locking barrel).

                Michael

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                • #9
                  If the wedges are hitting or almost hitting the compound then you can make a spacer or riser block to raise the tool post. This will change the lock position and allow for the tool holders to have more adjustment for centering on the work. I had to make a 3/4" riser on a CA I have.
                  The handle can be unscrewed if it interferes with the chuck. Some handles have a flat on them to assist.
                  Last edited by Ridgerunner; 07-25-2011, 06:28 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for all the comments

                    I would say start position is around 1-2 o-clock. This is a used Aloris brand tool holder that I purchased 4-5 years ago. If I try this disassembly option, doe this have a right or left hand thread - my guess is it is right hand and I have read that it takes a pretty strong turn to loosen it. Just wanted to be sure I'm going the right direction before I cause some serious damage.

                    I have never heard of one wearing but I guess that is a possiblity. I wonder if you can buy replacement parts.

                    Jeff

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                    • #11
                      R/H threads

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by dfw5914
                        Before any drilling or grinding, fully disassemble, clean, and inspect.

                        It may require fabricting a tool:
                        http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...loris003sm.jpg

                        Run a bolt thru it to keep the tool in place when breaking the initial torque if required:
                        http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/Alorissm.jpg
                        Very cool, But on my toolpost the worm and handle reciver are one peice. A spline really makes more sense however, Even a square reciver so you could rotate the handle 90 degrees. mmm.
                        Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

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                        • #13
                          Well, I decided to go and check it out so I can report what I found. When the handle is in the unlock position it is at 2 o-clock. I took a Aloris holder and tighten it and in the dovetail parallel with the chuck it locked at 8 o-clock and the wedge was all the way down to the compound. I then move it to the dovetail parallel to the ways and locked it down and it was about 6:30 to 7 o-clock. I added a shim of .010 (inch) to the dovetail parallel to the chuck and when tightened it ended up at about 4:30 position. I then added a .005 shim to the other set of dovetails and it locked about the same position. It must be worn - hard to believe it is worn that much so I guess my fix is to loctite these shims to the non-moveable dovetails.

                          You can see picture in this link - description in the captions.

                          Let's try a link to photobucket

                          http://s422.photobucket.com/albums/p...zy9370/aloris/
                          Last edited by JeffKranz; 07-25-2011, 10:40 PM.

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                          • #14
                            Oops... there's nothing to see here. Either you do not have access to these photos, or they don't exist at this web address. Please contact the owner directly to gain access.

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                            • #15
                              Well, the wedge does slide up and down as it's locked and unlocked and I don't think anything will last forever without some wear.

                              It's still a good idea to take it apart and clean it. I suppose the Aloris site may show how to take it apart.

                              I think the shim would be a good idea but I don't know how the locktite or even epoxy would hold up under the pressure.

                              Perhaps they do sell parts for them.
                              It's only ink and paper

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