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Aloris BXA - problems locking

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  • dfw5914
    replied
    After looking at the photos, it appears that the tool post is worn out. Maybe ship to Aloris for repairs?

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  • Boucher
    replied
    Removed double post
    Last edited by Boucher; 07-25-2011, 11:46 PM.

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  • Boucher
    replied
    This is the correct tool post orientation. The gib is on the back side and the tool cutting force tries to deflect the tool holder downward against the solid front surface of the post .

    If you roll the tool post 180 degrees and put a facing tool on the front or a turning tool on the right side of the tool post tool forces are applied to the gib, which is incorrect. If you rotate the tool post 90° counter clockwise an put one wedge on the back side of the tool post and one on the left side then you have the same incorrect application of force against the gib. Jack Daniels and I have had a long session this evening so I am not sure if this will sound coherrent in the morning. Hope this helps!
    Last edited by Boucher; 07-25-2011, 11:33 PM.

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  • Boucher
    replied
    Jeff, Not sure if this the problem but you have your tool post oriented incorrectly. This was discussed at length in another thread some time back, but I don't know how to find it.

    If you orient the tool post with one dovetail on the left side of the tool post and the other on the side nearest the work then tool deflection will be against the solid part of the tool post and not the gib. I will try to find some pictures.

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  • JeffKranz
    replied
    I fixed the link above - actually moved the files to photobucket so hopefully it will work.

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  • alcova
    replied
    You can get new wedges from Aloris, I did that, then when wedges finally came in, I figured out that I had ( free to me, no tag on Toolpost and with a BXA toolholder ) a AXA toolpost and many BXA holders that I had bought while waiting for the wedges

    End of story...had to buy an Aloris BXA and have an AXA Toolpost sitting around somewhere

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  • Carld
    replied
    Well, the wedge does slide up and down as it's locked and unlocked and I don't think anything will last forever without some wear.

    It's still a good idea to take it apart and clean it. I suppose the Aloris site may show how to take it apart.

    I think the shim would be a good idea but I don't know how the locktite or even epoxy would hold up under the pressure.

    Perhaps they do sell parts for them.

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  • dfw5914
    replied
    Oops... there's nothing to see here. Either you do not have access to these photos, or they don't exist at this web address. Please contact the owner directly to gain access.

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  • JeffKranz
    replied
    Well, I decided to go and check it out so I can report what I found. When the handle is in the unlock position it is at 2 o-clock. I took a Aloris holder and tighten it and in the dovetail parallel with the chuck it locked at 8 o-clock and the wedge was all the way down to the compound. I then move it to the dovetail parallel to the ways and locked it down and it was about 6:30 to 7 o-clock. I added a shim of .010 (inch) to the dovetail parallel to the chuck and when tightened it ended up at about 4:30 position. I then added a .005 shim to the other set of dovetails and it locked about the same position. It must be worn - hard to believe it is worn that much so I guess my fix is to loctite these shims to the non-moveable dovetails.

    You can see picture in this link - description in the captions.

    Let's try a link to photobucket

    http://s422.photobucket.com/albums/p...zy9370/aloris/
    Last edited by JeffKranz; 07-25-2011, 10:40 PM.

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  • Black_Moons
    replied
    Originally posted by dfw5914
    Before any drilling or grinding, fully disassemble, clean, and inspect.

    It may require fabricting a tool:
    http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...loris003sm.jpg

    Run a bolt thru it to keep the tool in place when breaking the initial torque if required:
    http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/Alorissm.jpg
    Very cool, But on my toolpost the worm and handle reciver are one peice. A spline really makes more sense however, Even a square reciver so you could rotate the handle 90 degrees. mmm.

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  • dfw5914
    replied
    R/H threads

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  • JeffKranz
    replied
    Thanks for all the comments

    I would say start position is around 1-2 o-clock. This is a used Aloris brand tool holder that I purchased 4-5 years ago. If I try this disassembly option, doe this have a right or left hand thread - my guess is it is right hand and I have read that it takes a pretty strong turn to loosen it. Just wanted to be sure I'm going the right direction before I cause some serious damage.

    I have never heard of one wearing but I guess that is a possiblity. I wonder if you can buy replacement parts.

    Jeff

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  • Ridgerunner
    replied
    If the wedges are hitting or almost hitting the compound then you can make a spacer or riser block to raise the tool post. This will change the lock position and allow for the tool holders to have more adjustment for centering on the work. I had to make a 3/4" riser on a CA I have.
    The handle can be unscrewed if it interferes with the chuck. Some handles have a flat on them to assist.
    Last edited by Ridgerunner; 07-25-2011, 06:28 PM.

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  • form_change
    replied
    Where is the 'start' position for the handle? My (Aloris) BXA has it's far most CCW position roughly at 2:30. If yours is the same but going through to 7-8 o'clock then the dovetails in the holders (or the wedge on the post) has worn somehow. If you are feeling like a bodge you could try gluing some shim onto the holder dovetail. It doesn't take much - a 0.2mm shim (8 thou) cuts the travel to clamp a tool by about 1/2. Typical travel seems to be around 60 degrees.
    If your starting position is say around 5 to 6 o'clock, then it sounds like something has moved inside. Looking at a cutaway view on the Aloris website, I can't think what that might be as the mechanism has only a few parts (unless the TP has been disassembled and the wedges have been indexed an extra tooth down on the locking barrel).

    Michael

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  • dfw5914
    replied
    Before any drilling or grinding, fully disassemble, clean, and inspect.

    It may require fabricating a tool:


    Run a bolt thru it to keep the tool in place when breaking the initial torque if required:
    Last edited by dfw5914; 07-25-2011, 09:42 PM.

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