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Help cleaning QCTP innards

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  • Help cleaning QCTP innards

    I have gotten no response elsewhere, so perhaps someone here has experience with this.

    The toolpost in question is a 1980's generation (I think) Dorian SD40CA. It's similar to a true wedge-style QCTP in that it pushes the holder blocks from one side of the dovetail, though its like a piston type in the way the push is straight-on from that side of the dovetail. I'd call it a hybrid of a piston and a wedge, and it would be just a bit nicer to use if it wasn't so gummed up with coagulated grease and goop. I do believe the design is still currently sold as their "Economy Quick Change Tool Post", though I couldn't seem to find any photos or description on their crappy website.

    I got the two wedges out. Now I can't figure out how to get the rest of it apart to clean it. I've tried tapping on different things, but nothing seems to be moving. I'll go take some photos of it tomorrow unless someone here has some pointers for me now.

  • #2
    Don't know if it helps but I have a pdf file about 4.4 MB, as its full of color drawings, that list the various Dorian types of posts.

    There are any number of O-ring type seals and there are a few knurling pins (going strictly by very general drawings and the fact that knurled pins are listed in parts). Now how old or new this information is, have no clue. Edit: Oh, not sure where those pins are as in the drawings they look similar to the gib screw locations.

    If you PM me an email address, more than willing to send a copy to you.


    • #3
      Hi Russ,

      I had downloaded a number of different PDF documents from their ultra-crappy website, but I'll thank you to send me the one you have just in case it's got info I don't have.

      I am sending you a PM with my e-mail address.




      • #4
        My wedge type Dorian had a hollow bolt on the top that had two opposed slots. Spin that out counter clockwise and then the handle just unscrews. All internals..what few there were, are all right hand thread. I'd say mine is 20 years old. It's a CA series.


        • #5
          Ken: file just sent, labeled "Dorian..."


          • #6
            Thank you for sending along the file, Russ. On Page 13, it shows most of what I needed to know. When I saw your e-mail, I had just deleted the photos I had taken earlier today, they were all out-of-focus.

            The description of what to do posted by flutedchamber didn't seem to work for me. I had no problem getting the handle off. I had no issues getting the wedges (pistons?) out. I needed to get the "hollow bolt" described out, and I tried everything. From the illustration on Pg13 of the PDF sent, I don't see where it could be threaded, but believe me I wailed on that thing with a pin spanner, then a пи 5/8" brass punch. Nothing was moving.

            Being out of both time and patience, I cleaned what I could get to with a rag dampened in kerosene, greased it up lightly with some lithium grease and reassembled it. I cleaned the dovetails and all other surfaces on the tool post and the older holders (meaning the 4 that came with the machine) and reassembled everything.

            What a big difference. Everything slips right on and off now and everything seems smooth. It's as good as I need it to be now, and that's good because I don't have the time to be screwing with it again.

            The QCTP and its 3 holders, including 1 Dorian No.2, a No.7-71C (for 7/8" tall HSS T-blade), and a No.881 were free with the machine. I've since added 3 aftermarket No.1's, and Dorian No.10, No.41, No.41-S, an aftermarket No.2, and most recently, Dorian No.7-71C (for 1" high blades) and No.7-71-32.

            I just pinged Jeff Beck of for 2 more No.2's and 1 more No.1 to have on hand for HSS tooling needs. The others have 1" carbide insert holders in them (probably) permanently, including MCLNR 16-4, DDJNR 16-4, MVJNR 16-3, CTAPR 16-3 and SRSCR 16-3. Jeff's toolholders do seem to be pretty nice for the $27, better than the ones from CDCO.

            I was sold on Jeff's word long ago, but when I was searching for an answer to this issue, I found this comparison. I now know I made the right choice between the two imports, and it ain't just the screws. Go to post #12.



            • #7
              I used a pin spanner (1/4 IIRC) and a few firm taps from a deadblow soft hammer. The hollow bolt is TIGHT, but once you budge it a bit it unscrews easily.

              The main body should show threads when you flip it over..around 1 inch or so fine threads. This is what the hollow bolt screws into.

              My toolholder was relatively clean when I took it apart. The previous owner used water soluable oil as a coolant and it had most of the internals gummy.

              Perhaps your tool post is put together differently than mine?
              Last edited by flutedchamber; 08-15-2011, 11:16 AM.


              • #8
                Thanks for that information.

                The bottom of the hollow bolt is quite flush to the bottom of the block body. No threads are showing. I also tried a pin spanner, to no avail. I think it wasn't going to work because it was an adjustable one, and just collapsed in on me as it's not true pin holes there. I'll just make up a custom wrench and have at it.

                One thing that isn't happening is any easy loosening and removal. I really pounded on that thing and nothing budged.

                I just won't be going at it again anytime soon because it's working quite good now.


                • #9
                  If you do disassemble the tool post, upon reassembly grease the obvious surfaces. After you install the handle with the worm gear on it turn the handle clockwise until it is tight, then turn the whole mess upside down (you can use your compound with the mount stud for this) and drop the wedges in. Rotate the handle backward and the wedges will each click downward from gravity. Turn the handle forward to tighten the wedges will retract.

                  If the handle isn't in the correct orientation with the side of the toolpost, turn it upside down again, move the handle in reverse direction and let the wedges click down once each again. That will put then handle in correct orientation to the side of the toolpost.


                  • #10
                    I've got a feeling our tool posts are built completely different. On this one, there's nothing to "click in" at all. The wedges on mine are actuated by nothing more than a lobed cam. They are retained by a dog-point set screw. There is no actual retraction, just a relief of pushing pressure. The well-rounded corners of the wedges allow the tool block being mounted to push the wedges in as needed to fit the block. I see no signs of any worm gear at all.


                    • #11
                      I think you are right on that point. Well, it was worth a try.


                      • #12
                        I have had a Dorian BXA for about 15 years. All my holders are Phase II and they fit perfectly. The original Phase II holders I bought needed the set screws changed out. The last couple I bought (about 6 years ago) had reduced size set screws, but the screw quality seemed to be better. However, the hex wrench size had gotten smaller, damn it.