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re-surfacing ways - grinding vs scraping vs $$

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  • #16
    Beckley23, You do amazing work! I just read a goodly portion of the thread you suggested,( I had to stop, but intend to coninue later) and my hat is off to you. You displayed lot of patience, fortitude, and perserverence in addition to skill with that Monarch. I look forward to reading it through to the end and seeing the finished product of your labors.
    I am finding it to be a goldmine of information for scraping and rebuilding a lathe.
    DFMiller - I've only done a very cursery check on the front V way and found .0035 difference on the back side and .002 on the front measured from just in front of the ts to just behind the saddle, with the saddle moved as close to the hs as I could get it and the chuck removed.
    so more investigation is needed, but that will have to wait 'till I can clear the decks a little bit.
    Added Connelly's book to my reading list.
    Any a class or lecture by Forrest would definitely be well worth attending.
    I cut it twice, and it's still too short!
    Scott

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    • #17
      I had a 48" by 12" mill reground here in the UK.

      Top of the knee, saddle and table.

      Including Turciting (actually Rulon) and scraping back to alignment, the cost was £700 (about US$1150).
      Paul Compton
      www.morini-mania.co.uk
      http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru

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      • #18
        I'm not entirely sure I would bother for 0.002 to 0.0035 wear.

        Unless the lever arm is causing the tool to move a lot due to a varying difference between front and back ways, your total error is going to be small.

        Your choice, of course, but most folks are on board with re-grinding when the wear is more like 0.020, not 0.002.
        1601

        Keep eye on ball.
        Hashim Khan

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        • #19
          J Tiers, I agree that the amount of wear does not appear to be a great amount, but that was only a cursury examination of just one v way from right to left. I feel that it's enough to warrant a closer, more detailed exam of all the ways, with the level checked and saddle removed, if for no other reason than to be able to keep an eye on it down the road.
          As I said earlier, the lathe can still hold a tolerance, it's just beginning to show it's age a bit. I hate it when things come up behind me and bite me in the butt!
          Currently I'm going through the gearbox and replacing some bushings, a couple of worn gears and shafts and generally bringing it back up to snuff. When that's done the apron and Reeves drive will be next, I'll be taking a closer look at all of the ways at that time, unless I get hung up waiting on parts.
          I guess that's what started this whole thing - the amount wear I found in the gearbox is making me wonder about everything else.
          I cut it twice, and it's still too short!
          Scott

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          • #20
            Scottike
            If you do decide to rebuild the lathe you are fairly close to a very good machine tool re-builder that can handle the bed resurface. The company is Lindmark Machine Works in Seattle,
            http://www.lindmarkmachineworks.com/id28.htm
            Mark Hockett

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            • #21
              Thanks Mark - Added them to my favorites list. It's nice to know there's a place close by with those capabilities. I wasn't sure what kind of resources we had around here for that kind of work.
              edit: That's some nice looking work on your site.
              I cut it twice, and it's still too short!
              Scott

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