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re-surfacing ways - grinding vs scraping vs $$

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  • Scottike
    replied
    Thanks Mark - Added them to my favorites list. It's nice to know there's a place close by with those capabilities. I wasn't sure what kind of resources we had around here for that kind of work.
    edit: That's some nice looking work on your site.

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  • Mark Hockett
    replied
    Scottike
    If you do decide to rebuild the lathe you are fairly close to a very good machine tool re-builder that can handle the bed resurface. The company is Lindmark Machine Works in Seattle,
    http://www.lindmarkmachineworks.com/id28.htm

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  • Scottike
    replied
    J Tiers, I agree that the amount of wear does not appear to be a great amount, but that was only a cursury examination of just one v way from right to left. I feel that it's enough to warrant a closer, more detailed exam of all the ways, with the level checked and saddle removed, if for no other reason than to be able to keep an eye on it down the road.
    As I said earlier, the lathe can still hold a tolerance, it's just beginning to show it's age a bit. I hate it when things come up behind me and bite me in the butt!
    Currently I'm going through the gearbox and replacing some bushings, a couple of worn gears and shafts and generally bringing it back up to snuff. When that's done the apron and Reeves drive will be next, I'll be taking a closer look at all of the ways at that time, unless I get hung up waiting on parts.
    I guess that's what started this whole thing - the amount wear I found in the gearbox is making me wonder about everything else.

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    I'm not entirely sure I would bother for 0.002 to 0.0035 wear.

    Unless the lever arm is causing the tool to move a lot due to a varying difference between front and back ways, your total error is going to be small.

    Your choice, of course, but most folks are on board with re-grinding when the wear is more like 0.020, not 0.002.

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  • EVguru
    replied
    I had a 48" by 12" mill reground here in the UK.

    Top of the knee, saddle and table.

    Including Turciting (actually Rulon) and scraping back to alignment, the cost was £700 (about US$1150).

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  • Scottike
    replied
    Beckley23, You do amazing work! I just read a goodly portion of the thread you suggested,( I had to stop, but intend to coninue later) and my hat is off to you. You displayed lot of patience, fortitude, and perserverence in addition to skill with that Monarch. I look forward to reading it through to the end and seeing the finished product of your labors.
    I am finding it to be a goldmine of information for scraping and rebuilding a lathe.
    DFMiller - I've only done a very cursery check on the front V way and found .0035 difference on the back side and .002 on the front measured from just in front of the ts to just behind the saddle, with the saddle moved as close to the hs as I could get it and the chuck removed.
    so more investigation is needed, but that will have to wait 'till I can clear the decks a little bit.
    Added Connelly's book to my reading list.
    Any a class or lecture by Forrest would definitely be well worth attending.

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  • DFMiller
    replied
    Scott,
    Have you done a survey on the machine to assess how bad it is?
    This is described in Connelly's book, Machine Tool Reconditionin
    http://www.machinetoolpublications.com/

    There is no doubt that Forrest has a better version in his head and its a pleasure to hear him recite his wisdom in person.
    I had the pleasure of attending his scraping course last year. It was in Seattle. With any luck he will run another course soon.

    Sounds like an interesting project.
    Dave

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  • Scottike
    replied
    Yes Robin, I agree, I think a scraping class would have to be in order for me before I would begin a project like this. And a lot of practice on other smaller projects first.

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  • beckley23
    replied
    Lazlo-Had time on my hands and didn't need the machine, why spend the money?

    Anyway, here's one of the lathes they're talking about.
    http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...update-146913/
    Harry

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  • lynnl
    replied
    Just as a ballpark guess, how much wear should one estimate as having taken place, when the original frosting/scraping marks just barely cease to be visible?

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  • Robin R
    replied
    I would think it makes a big difference to the viability of the project where the nearest machine rebuilder is, shipping the lathe to Texas would increase the cost considerably. If you could find an outfit within reasonable driving distance, you could save a lot of cash and have the opportunity to watch the process.

    Something else worth considering, would be to attend a scraping class like the one lazlo went to. It would make it much easier for you to accurately asses the real condition of your lathe and might even give you enough skills to do the scraping part of the rebuild yourself.

    Leave a comment:


  • Scottike
    replied
    The gearbox mounts to the support for leadscrew, so adjusting the height of the leadscrew would also raise/lower the gearbox. Backlash between the gearbox and fwd/rev tumbler is adjusted by rotating the box on the mounting boss, and the fwd/rev tumbler can be adjusted to control the backlash between it and the spindle gear. Of course that all goes out the window if too much meat is removed from the ways headstock etc.
    edit: It's beginning to sound like a plan a,b, & c better be ready.
    Last edited by Scottike; 08-21-2011, 03:06 PM.

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  • rkepler
    replied
    Originally posted by Scottike
    No, they're not hardened ways, if they were, I probably wouldn't be having to ask about this now, but then again, it makes the work easier that they're not. guess that's a double edged sword?
    Even hardened ways wear. My 10EE had something like .007" on the bed and .012" on the leading edge of the saddle.

    edit: Lazlo, If I adjust the height of the leadscrew and rack, wouldn't the saddle & apron be fine then? Even though they were scraped /reground?
    Since you have to scrape the saddle back in anyway and put something in for that it's less work to simply build it back up to the original height than to scrape it in at the lower height and then adjust the gearbox, apron and mounting points at the tail end to the new saddle height. Using Turcite or Moglice lets you put things back and with a better way material (assuming that your lathe has a decent lubrication system that will maintain it).

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  • lazlo
    replied
    Originally posted by Scottike
    Lazlo, If I adjust the height of the leadscrew and rack, wouldn't the saddle & apron be fine then? Even though they were scraped /reground?
    But then you'd have to relocate the gearbox too?
    Most people just glue-in a piece of Turcite (Rulon, Garlock) that's roughly the same thickness as was ground off the bed. That keeps everything else in alignment.

    We glued and scraped a faux Turcite way in Rich King's class, and it was a lot easier than I expected.

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  • Scottike
    replied
    No, they're not hardened ways, if they were, I probably wouldn't be having to ask about this now, but then again, it makes the work easier that they're not. guess that's a double edged sword?
    edit: Lazlo, If I adjust the height of the leadscrew and rack, wouldn't the saddle & apron be fine then? Even though they were scraped /reground?
    Last edited by Scottike; 08-21-2011, 02:12 PM.

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