This may be an old idea, but I've never seen it so I thought I'd pass it along.
One of the big draw backs to mill drill use is the inability to raise and lower the head without throwing the alignment out of whack.
I don't like keeping the head too high and bringing the spindle out too much just to drill, then tap a hole so I made a short tap wrench (crude, I know) that uses a tapered dowel pin and a spring shoved up the drill chuck.
Then I realized I could simplify the whole thing and keep the head where I normally would have it to do the drilling using short bits.
I ground a small flat on the tap shanks in both cases for the screw to tighten on.....the first wrench is pretty similar to normal wrenches and the second one uses a brass cylinder that gets held by the drill chuck and acts as a guide for the tap shank.
I use 6-32 and 8-32 most of the time so having a couple of dedicated set-ups isn't too impractical for me.
The brass cylinder used with the simpler of the two, could be changed to a short length of stock drilled in one end and dimpled in the other for use with a standard tap guide as taps of this size don't seem to have the dimple needed for their use.
Like I said before, it may not be new, but I hadn't seen it on anyone's hsm site or anywhere else so......
Thanks for all the help in the past!
John
http://www.mpiretattoo.com/tapwrench.htm
[This message has been edited by ZINOM (edited 01-26-2004).]
One of the big draw backs to mill drill use is the inability to raise and lower the head without throwing the alignment out of whack.
I don't like keeping the head too high and bringing the spindle out too much just to drill, then tap a hole so I made a short tap wrench (crude, I know) that uses a tapered dowel pin and a spring shoved up the drill chuck.
Then I realized I could simplify the whole thing and keep the head where I normally would have it to do the drilling using short bits.
I ground a small flat on the tap shanks in both cases for the screw to tighten on.....the first wrench is pretty similar to normal wrenches and the second one uses a brass cylinder that gets held by the drill chuck and acts as a guide for the tap shank.
I use 6-32 and 8-32 most of the time so having a couple of dedicated set-ups isn't too impractical for me.
The brass cylinder used with the simpler of the two, could be changed to a short length of stock drilled in one end and dimpled in the other for use with a standard tap guide as taps of this size don't seem to have the dimple needed for their use.
Like I said before, it may not be new, but I hadn't seen it on anyone's hsm site or anywhere else so......
Thanks for all the help in the past!
John
http://www.mpiretattoo.com/tapwrench.htm
[This message has been edited by ZINOM (edited 01-26-2004).]
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