No announcement yet.

How to remove this bearing?

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • How to remove this bearing?

    Looking for a suggestion for two about removing a bearing on the rear plate of this old solar telescope a friend of mine owns. You can see in the photos that there is no way to pull the bearing, because the hole in the rear plate is identical in size to the I.D. of the bearing, so there's not enough of the face of the bearing to punch out or grab. How do you remove a seated bearing like this?

    Last edited by Smokedaddy; 09-19-2011, 11:15 PM.

  • #2
    See if you can rent or buy a blind bearing tool.


    • #3
      I'd stick a bolt or something in the ID and tack weld it to the inner race, then press/tap it out from the other side.


      • #4
        Either make or buy a cheap expanding arbor. Insert arbor from "top", tighten expanding bolt on bearing, hammer from "top" on arbor. Like that. Harbor Fr..... is fine. No need to spend more than $20. There are specialized "sets" like dp mentions that are made for specific bearings if you are doing this all the time. For onesy twosey don't spend the money, IME. The expanding mandrels work fine.


        • #5
          I think I might try sizing a rod to a close tolerance fit and locktite it or superglue it to the inner race of the bearing. Might give you just enough grip to remove it. And it won't damage the hole if it doesn't work.

          You might also try drilling and tapping the end of a slightly oversize rod and then cut two slots in the end resembling a "+" sign so the rod expands when a set-screw is driven into the tapped hole. Then you will have something to pull on or drive against.

          You might also consider drilling the rear hole a bit larger and then press a sleeve into the hole once the bearing is removed.

          I'm sure there are other ideas, but those are the ones I thought of.


          • #6
            Are u replacing it?

            if so then dis-assemble the cage and extract the inner race and balls - then maybe you have enough angle to get a drift punch in there and work the outer race on out...


            • #7
              It may even be possible to use a shower head goose neck remover. It is an expanding mandrel that fits inside a broken shower head goose neck pipe and allows you to unscrew it.


              • #8
                that's a good idea - double check the back hole and even if it's a couple thou larger youv got it kicked - build a shaft to just fit into the bearing race but then have a couple thou step in it - then pound it out from the backside.


                • #9
                  If the housing is cast ally just put it in the oven with the bearing facing down, it will fall out. Otherwise ass suggested above but countersink/bore the seat before replacing it so that it can be pulled easily next time.
                  Peter - novice home machinist, modern motorcycle enthusiast.

                  Denford Viceroy 280 Synchro (11 x 24)
                  Herbert 0V adapted to R8 by 'Sir John'.
                  Monarch 10EE 1942


                  • #10
                    I just use a slide hammer with a blind bearing puller. I have on occasion drilled two or three small holes from the rear so they intersect with the outer rim, then pushed or punched them out. A dab of JB weld seals the holes after if required.

                    Another way is to grind (die grinder) a couple of pockets in the bearing inner race, then expand a split post puller into it. In your case, you can likely get it out by slitting a bolt for an inch with hacksaw, insert into the bearing and drive in a wedge from the back. The expanding threads will grab.
                    Last edited by lakeside53; 09-19-2011, 12:18 AM.


                    • #11
                      If the casting is cast iron then an oxy-acetylene cutting torch will cut the bearing out. If the casting is aluminum, then use a die grinder to cut two or three groves in the bearing, almost to the base metal... then break out with a punch.

                      If you don't have a die grinder, you'll now have a good excuse to get one. They are very handy!

                      Last edited by Mike Burdick; 09-19-2011, 12:35 AM.


                      • #12
                        I had to replace a bearing for a friend not so long ago. It was the gearbox output bearing on an Italian motorcycle and I wanted to avoid splitting the cases. There was of course a shaft through the middle that couldn't be removed.

                        I used one of these..

                        Draper small insert bearing puller (Amazon carry them).

                        Break up the cage, then insert the appropriate size tip (a ball with two flats) and twist to lock.

                        I wound it up as tight as I dared, then left the cases with a hot air gun blowing on them. After about half and hour there was a loud bang as the bearing finally released it's grip.
                        Paul Compton


                        • #13
                          Depending on how tight the bearing is in there you might be able to use a test plug in the inner race and then pound the bearing out. Or similar a round piece of wood the same size as the bearing and then drive a screw down the middle while it is in the bearing which will expand the wood and grab the bearing.



                          • #14
                            Put a rod in from the side with the outer race that just fits in the inner race and level with the inner race. Turn it over and stake the edges of the rod with a punch. Then heat the casting and use a punch to drive out the bearing.
                            Location: The Black Forest in Germany

                            How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!


                            • #15
                              Like Boomer said remove the cage and balls. Then use your welder (MIG, TIG or stick) to run a bead about 1/4 the ID of the race. The race will fall right out. Works like a charm and won't heat or damage the casting at all - as long as you can weld in a straight line!

                              Tom - Spotsylvania, VA