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spraying metallic paint

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  • spraying metallic paint

    never done it before

    unfortunately had a bit of a smash in my car the other day sourced the new panels from a car breaker yard ..but they are black

    bonnet (hood) wings (fenders) and bumper to do.

    I don't even know what type it is

    is it ..flake..Pearlescent ..water based or what ..ive no idea car is a 96

    do you flat it before the lacquer..or not

    on a black rubbed down surface its going on, does it require a certain colour of primer.

    the colour is a very weird blue (kingfisher blue)that looks a differrent colour depending how much light there is falling on it isnt one of these colours that are two just looks torquise all over in low light ..and just blue in lots of light.

    i have a hvlp spray gun and plenty of cfm of air...what nozzle/ tip do i use .

    any help and tips appreciated

    i am proficient at spraying paint ..its just that i don't know anything about metallics at

    i don't know what price the paint is ..but have a max limit of £100 ..anything more than that and it aint getting done ..

    the car paint suppliers in the uk ..are ridiculously expensive ..last time i checked they wanted £45 for just 1 litre of 2k

    and does temperature matter very much ...well with the fan going in the wall ..i dont have any choice really will be sprayed in temps of around 12- 15 degrees c

    all the best.markj

  • #2
    Mark they tell me black is one of the easiest colours to spray and get a match. I have had black cars for the last five cars I have owned.Have fun and good luck. Alistair
    Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease


    • #3
      Allister, I believe he means the replacement panels he has purchased are black but he needs to paint them with a metallic color, a "very weird blue (kingfisher blue)".
      Paul A.
      SE Texas

      And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
      You will find that it has discrete steps.


      • #4
        go see your paint supplier... with car or panel and colour code, they will hopefully advise on undercoat, colour & type and topcoat.


        • #5
          This is the colour

          this is a bit i cut out of it for the lpg conversion

          in less light it turns to a sort of makita blue/green

          all the best.markj


          • #6
            looks like a colour shift metalic.


            • #7
              Based on my very limited experience you want to spray the first coat(s) wetter than the last coat. Last coat spray light so the metallics go on even and don't sag. But I am far from an expert.


              • #8
                I'm sure it's a base coat / clear coat system so you don't want to put your base coats (color) on too wet or heavy. Base coats should look dry and dull, but smoothe and even. Don't try to get your base coat to shine. Two coats of clear are OK. As far as the primer goes I would go with what the manufacturer uses to ensure a decent match. Remember don't panel paint...... blend.
                Paint isn't cheap in the US either.



                • #9
                  A 96 what? Make and Model please.
                  Some of those colors are THREE stage. It may or may not be a water based paint. Your paint supplier will need the VIN number or the color code to match it, if the color is original. He can also check the type of paint in the listing. Can't tell you where the build tag is until we know what make but it may be on the trailing edge (latch side) of the driver's door. (In USA, not sure about Europe) The build tag will have the color code on it.

                  The primer color can vary but in most cases, light grey should give you the color hold-out you need. Metallics are hard to match on adjacent panels. You may have to blend it. Mix the paint well and keep "sloshing" the paint in the gun about every 30 seconds during your shoot. The metallics will settle quickly. This is a MUST to get an even color that will come close to matching.

                  As far as cost, you might be cutting the budget pretty close by the time you add primer, paint, reducer/base, clear and activator. Stick with one paint system--Don't mix brands. I could shoot all your parts with one quart of paint where someone else might need a gallon. HVLP is the only way to go.

                  Just remember that the job is 90% prep and 10% paint.


                  • #10
                    Metallics are hard to match on adjacent panels
                    Don't mix brands.
                    +1 on all input so far esp the above may be "locked" into whomever the original paint manufacturer stated above, not all metallics are the same from maker to example in North America, PPG compared to DuPont could get you that slightly different metallic sheen that just isn't the same...let alone if it was not original paint.

                    Oh, your first issue is going to be it being '96, the chip you have from years ago is not going to be the same as the paint is now or the same as it is in a completely hidden area (which is what the paint code will match), so which do you "match" to? "Match" being a bit of a misnomer...quite close even with blending maybe what you have to settle for [in my experience, some golds, bronzes and silvers are get into situations where close up it's OK but 20, 30, 40 feet back it's a horrible "match"...yours could be tough getting the balance between blue and green w metallic]
                    Last edited by RussZHC; 09-20-2011, 10:30 PM.


                    • #11
                      I've done some metallics in the past and i use a 2.0 tip; you can get by with a 1.8 in a pinch but it will most probably clog a lot.

                      As mentioned before keep sloshing the paint around in the gun to stop the flakes from settling; i throw a couple of 1/2 inch steel ball bearings in to help.

                      you need to build the layers up because the flake will want to make the paint run/sag. A couple of very light coats to get some tack going and then a heavier coat to really get the flake down.

                      Also make sure you get a good clear; trying to bury the flake in a cheap/ thin clearcote is a nightmare; don't ask how i know this one!!!



                      • #12
                        Paint the rest of the car black!
                        Location: The Black Forest in Germany

                        How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!


                        • #13
                          Last time i sprayed kingfisher blue was on a talbot alpine, long time ago!
                          fill and rub down as normal, 180/360/600, prime rpf 500 or 600, denib, guide coat, flat down to no more than 600 [peeling!] spray basecoat, single coat, 20 mins flash off double coat wet on wet as it were, recomended drying is about 35 mins, clear top coat, coat 1, 25 mins, double coat wet on wet, piss off down pub with lights off cos itl be late and moths like to suicide in clear laquer, plus youll be fairly high by then anyway!, its still a nice colour.
                          i used to get my paint from livermores in swansea, they are too far away from you but they are handy for advice on the phone!, i used A&W 2 pack last time but acrylic would be the in thing now, get the datasheet when you buy the paint, they are very good!, dont overthin on the topcoat!, and buy thier thinners, not gun wash! [i know its cheap!]
                          theres some tidy primer guns [gravity] in lidl at the moment!
                          its not a metal flake so any fluid tip will suffice, keep pressure lowish on the base coat and let it 'fall' onto the panel if theres a big cloud then your a bit too hot as it were.
                          you dont rub basecoat down btw!
                          Last edited by boslab; 09-21-2011, 06:51 AM.


                          • #14
                            Your also going to need a beefy compressor..

                            I sprayed some wheels and other bits for my lads car... and my SIP 14cfm twin pot 50 litre compressor only just kept up when spraying at the recommended 90 psi..



                            • #15
                              I just got done (finally) with spraying one of my buddies fenders for his 2010 mitsu with only 680 miles on it! I had to spray the fender a total of 3 different times because they couldn't get the color to match.

                              The color code was a UB2-B a phantom black concoction. The paint store thought it was the base (primer color) that was throwing the color off so they sent over a few test cards. The cards are white on one end and then in steps goes to black on the other end to see how the base color effects the base coat paint color. I sprayed the cards and sent them back to the paint store. You could not tell at all what side was the white side and what side was the black side of the card.

                              With new panels that are painted black they need to be scuffed and primed before you can lay base and clear. I know they say the black is a primer but if you don't scuff and cover it your paint can peal.

                              You don't need a heavy thick coat of primer for the base, just a nice light cover just to get a good base for the color to grab onto.

                              After you spray the primer go over the panel again with 400grit to get any high spots or dirt out.

                              Wipe down the panel with dry cloth, I like to moisten a clean cotton cloth with paint thinner (the stuff you will be using to thin the base color) and fast wipe down the panel again in even wipes from one end of the panel to the other without stopping. Fold the cloth and repeat. Stopping or starting wiping in the middle of the panel will leave dirst/dust behind on the panel.

                              After all wiped down mix up and shoot the base color. With metallic you have to lay enough paint for it to be wet so the metal flake can lay down. If you spray with the gun to far away or to light of coats the metal flake will stand on end and the color will look funny. I normally do just 2 coats of base, one to get the coverage, the jambs, and any nooks or cranys. The second coat I pay most attention to the visible panel itself and make sure I am getting a nice even wet coat on the entire thing. Lots and lots of good lighting will help you see the wet and dry spots!

                              After about 15-20 minutes (about enough time to clean the gun and cups) the base coat will flash over and you are ready to shoot the clear!

                              The clear is the hardest thing to spray because you can see when its to dry but not when its to wet till it drips. With clear I also like to lay 2 coats so long as I am satisfied with the second coat. The first coat is like the base, just to cover the panel and get all the corners and jambs and stuff. After it starts to set up (about 10 minutes) I will shoot the second coat. The second coat I spray heavy, again lots of lighting will help you see the dry spots and wet spots. Make sure there is good coverage! Every inch of the panel should have a glass look to it by the time you are done shooting the clear. If you see anything that looks like orange peal while you are spraying it is to dry and needs more clear. Once the clear starts to flash over you are done until you spray the whole panel again, so try to get all the dry spots wet before the clear flashes on the second coat.

                              Let sit over night and you should be able to lightly handle the panel and bolt it on the car. I like to try and get the panel on and bolted down the second day because the clear is still soft and will squish around the bolts instead of crack.

                              Have fun!