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I need a tap.....

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  • #16
    Well hell yea that would work.....bah, I'm so stuipd, never even crossed my mind to do that...

    Thanks for the good to the shop.


    • #17
      Kansas farmer, I see you're from Northwest Kansas.
      Anywhere near Phillipsburg or Norton?


      • #18
        about 90 miles from Norton.


        • #19
          Just had the same symptom on my Cummins, turned out to be a leak in the fuel line. Just a thought.


          • #20
            When was the last time oil was changed?
            Powerstrokes are very sensitive to old oil due to the type of fuel system used by them. Starting can be an issue with old oil.

            If it takes a while for the HPOP (high pressure oil pump) to build pressure after sitting for a while I would suspect this system first.

            Also units with a lot of miles on them may have cracked injector O-rings allowing the pressure to bleed down.

            Either way if you find supply pressure to the HPOP suficient check out this end of the sytem next.
            Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
            Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

            Location: British Columbia


            • #21
              I had similar symptoms on my BMW. The cause turned out to be the low pressure fuel pump in the tank was not working.
              This is not an issue while running the engine, as the high pressure pump is positive displacement and sucks the fuel in, but when the car is parked the fuel in the fuel line drains back to the tank very slowly.
              There was a similar correlation between time parked and cranking time needed.



              • #22
                Originally posted by Kansas_Farmer
                Hey all, long time no post. It's good to see this place has survived and thrived as well as it has. I hope all of you are doing well.

                Now, on to business...

                The Problem: 7.3 Powerstroke won't start right...
                Diagnostics require testing fuel pressure. The regulator has a nice handy shrader valve hanging off of it to attach a pressure gauge. I just happen to have a pressure gauge and adapter kit, but none of them will fit that [email protected]#$ shrader valve. I have a lathe and a chunk of brass, figured i'd make one....wrong answer..... I don't see how a boring bar will fit in there to cut threads and i'll be @#[email protected]#!! if I can find a 305" x 32tpi tap. Any help in locating such a tap would be greatly appreciated!!


                It should be a common ol' 5/16 x 32 tap - plenty of those about


                • #23
                  I have bored a hole and pressed and epoxied a good quality valve cap into it.
                  It may be easier to find the tap than a good valve cap today. Some of the old hand pumps had a hose and fitting that does just what you need.
                  Byron Boucher
                  Burnet, TX


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Kansas_Farmer
                    Good thought Don, unfortunately, this engine has a 'cam driven fuel pump. There isn't any electric pump in the system, fuel is pulled from the tank with a diaphragm "chevy" style fuel pump. The engine has to be turning for this pump to work, just like an old 350.

                    I've looked at and suspected the filter cap, did replace the seal ring, but it doesn't leak, when it's running, infact, the valley is dry. This is definitely a pita...

                    There is an electric fuel pump on the frame rail under the drivers side seat.

                    Pic of my 7.3 X:

                    Last edited by vpt; 09-22-2011, 09:44 AM.


                    • #25
                      Sounds like a 5/16-32, Try McMaster Carr Or Victor Machinery Exchange. Doesn't seem all that unusual. Bob.


                      • #26
                        Andy, I don't have that pump, IIRC, that's a 98+ feature, I'm stuck in 96 on this one...

                        Update: Well, this isn't going well yet.... I made a tap holder for my 10-32, did some turning on the shaft, got the hole drilled, cut some threads, too loose, and I notice the 2" of shaft I have exposed from the chuck is now bent and not running true. Mayyybe I need to get some real brass instead of this bearing bronze i'm using... I suppose the fact that i'm in a hurry and not really doing a good job of paying attention to details.... Haste making waste anyone... heh...