Preparing to do the break-in on the Bolton lathe ... suggestions please. :)

[rode2rouen]

If you can't get the special oils, you won't do any harm with 30W engine oil sold for lawnmowers etc on the spindle bearings and chain saw oil on the slides. Works for me.

Oh man, if he follows that advice his lathe will be a worn out lump of metal in 25-30 years! What are you thinking??


Rex

[garagemark]

Google "lathe way oil". That will get some hits. As someone mentioned, talking lubrication in the machinist world is like talking politics or religion anywhere else.

I use chain saw bar and chain lube on my ways. It sticks good and has great pressure characteristics. But.... my lathe will surly die a horrible death in twenty years.

I won't even talk about the lighter oils for other parts of the machine. I would probably be cyber bullied if I did. But what I do appears to work just fine, and I don't pay NASA prices for the stuff. Tractor Supply will do me just fine.

[garagemark]

Sorry. Double post

[duckman]

Farndurk remember that ignorant can be cured stupid can't, and there are no STUPID questions but there can be stupid answer.

[lynnl]

Pardon me Farndurk, if I'm wrong, but I'm thinking that term "way oil" is unfamiliar to you. It simply refers to oil specifically formulated for use on the "ways" of machine tools. i.e. the precision sliding surfaces.

It's formulated with special tackifiers so that it will stay put, yet reduce the "stick and grab" effect (stiction), that some other lubes might cause.

Personally, I'm in the camp that feels it doesn't much matter what oils you use for the bearings and gears (as long as it's not too thin and runny); the important thing is that you use something.

Granted, engine oil is formulated to keep byproducts of combustion in suspension, but most lathes/machine tools I know, don't do much combusting anyway, so I fail to see where having the detergents in there matters much.

As for me, I bought a gallon of way oil locally years ago, and just smear it on any sliding surfaces with a clean finger. For the gear box/head I just use a gear oil (forgotten the API specs) that I can get in quarts from Tractor Supply.

I have a little Jet 5X6" H/V band saw that has a bronze worm (or maybe it's the gear that's bronze), and the manual calls for a synthetic oil, which I had to order (from MSC I think). It's pricey, but then not a lot is required.
The point is, some oils are said to have a detrimental effect on yellow metals: bronze, brass, etc. I'm sure that's why the Jet manual spec'ed the synthetic.

By all means, use what's specified whenever possible, but in the absence of specifications just use any good machine oil and you're not likely to go far wrong.

[DR]

Hello all. Ok, you guys did a great job of helping me out on the Mill break in a few months ago. I followed everyone's suggestions to the T and I got that done just fine .. thanks again.

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=47398

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Interesting.

The break in period was over a 12 hour span. The amperage draw was lowered over that period. Is the amperage draw still lowered or was some of that due to the machine warming up and tolerances opening so there was less resistance in the rotating members?

Are the amperage readings consistently low and repeatable when the machine is tested cold?

[Richard Wilson]

Oh man, if he follows that advice his lathe will be a worn out lump of metal in 25-30 years! What are you thinking??


Rex

I'm 61. I don't carewhat happens in 25 -30 years, I won't be around to get the blame.

Anyway, I thought you guys all claimed these Far Eastern machines would be a worn out lump of metal in 10 years time, so if he follows my advice and it last 25 -30 years I've done him a favour haven't I? Pity I won't be around to get the thanks.

Richard

[lakeside53]

he was kidding... note the