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Preparing to do the break-in on the Bolton lathe ... suggestions please. :)

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  • lakeside53
    replied
    he was kidding... note the

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  • Richard Wilson
    replied
    Originally posted by rode2rouen
    Oh man, if he follows that advice his lathe will be a worn out lump of metal in 25-30 years! What are you thinking??


    Rex
    I'm 61. I don't carewhat happens in 25 -30 years, I won't be around to get the blame.

    Anyway, I thought you guys all claimed these Far Eastern machines would be a worn out lump of metal in 10 years time, so if he follows my advice and it last 25 -30 years I've done him a favour haven't I? Pity I won't be around to get the thanks.

    Richard

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  • DR
    replied
    Originally posted by Farndurk
    Hello all. Ok, you guys did a great job of helping me out on the Mill break in a few months ago. I followed everyone's suggestions to the T and I got that done just fine .. thanks again.



    .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ........

    Interesting.

    The break in period was over a 12 hour span. The amperage draw was lowered over that period. Is the amperage draw still lowered or was some of that due to the machine warming up and tolerances opening so there was less resistance in the rotating members?

    Are the amperage readings consistently low and repeatable when the machine is tested cold?

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  • lynnl
    replied
    Pardon me Farndurk, if I'm wrong, but I'm thinking that term "way oil" is unfamiliar to you. It simply refers to oil specifically formulated for use on the "ways" of machine tools. i.e. the precision sliding surfaces.

    It's formulated with special tackifiers so that it will stay put, yet reduce the "stick and grab" effect (stiction), that some other lubes might cause.

    Personally, I'm in the camp that feels it doesn't much matter what oils you use for the bearings and gears (as long as it's not too thin and runny); the important thing is that you use something.

    Granted, engine oil is formulated to keep byproducts of combustion in suspension, but most lathes/machine tools I know, don't do much combusting anyway, so I fail to see where having the detergents in there matters much.

    As for me, I bought a gallon of way oil locally years ago, and just smear it on any sliding surfaces with a clean finger. For the gear box/head I just use a gear oil (forgotten the API specs) that I can get in quarts from Tractor Supply.

    I have a little Jet 5X6" H/V band saw that has a bronze worm (or maybe it's the gear that's bronze), and the manual calls for a synthetic oil, which I had to order (from MSC I think). It's pricey, but then not a lot is required.
    The point is, some oils are said to have a detrimental effect on yellow metals: bronze, brass, etc. I'm sure that's why the Jet manual spec'ed the synthetic.

    By all means, use what's specified whenever possible, but in the absence of specifications just use any good machine oil and you're not likely to go far wrong.
    Last edited by lynnl; 09-23-2011, 02:52 PM.

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  • duckman
    replied
    Farndurk remember that ignorant can be cured stupid can't, and there are no STUPID questions but there can be stupid answer.

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  • garagemark
    replied
    Sorry. Double post
    Last edited by garagemark; 09-23-2011, 02:15 PM.

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  • garagemark
    replied
    Google "lathe way oil". That will get some hits. As someone mentioned, talking lubrication in the machinist world is like talking politics or religion anywhere else.

    I use chain saw bar and chain lube on my ways. It sticks good and has great pressure characteristics. But.... my lathe will surly die a horrible death in twenty years.

    I won't even talk about the lighter oils for other parts of the machine. I would probably be cyber bullied if I did. But what I do appears to work just fine, and I don't pay NASA prices for the stuff. Tractor Supply will do me just fine.

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  • rode2rouen
    replied
    Originally posted by Richard Wilson
    If you can't get the special oils, you won't do any harm with 30W engine oil sold for lawnmowers etc on the spindle bearings and chain saw oil on the slides. Works for me.

    Oh man, if he follows that advice his lathe will be a worn out lump of metal in 25-30 years! What are you thinking??


    Rex

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  • Richard Wilson
    replied
    Originally posted by Farndurk
    Hello all. Ok, you guys did a great job of helping me out on the Mill break in a few months ago. I followed everyone's suggestions to the T and I got that done just fine .. thanks again.



    Now we're doing the lathe. A brand new 12x24 Bolton unit that's been sitting in our shop since last yewar unused. (ugh .. life!) I still have plenty of the hydraulic fluid that I used on the Mill, you guys told me before that oil would work fine with the lathe as well, so I'm good there.

    Stupid question ... what exactly do I use to oil the oiling points on the machine? Those little spring loaded balls that are all over it .... those things. The manual is useless as far as frequency of attention in those spots, as well as what type of tool/oiler does one use to work with those little lube points, and what type of lube for that matter! It's not an issue, I man you kinda have to expect this sortof thing with MIC stuff.

    Keep in mind my forte has been welding/fab of space frames. I'm not a dummy, just ignorant. And that is something that is easily fixed.

    So if I can get a little help here, I can do the break in and then I'll post the results just like I did with the mill. For no other reason than posterity, I guess.

    Thanks for your help.

    Brian ...

    Just use a pump type oil can with a pointed nozzle. Nothing exotic. If you can't get the special oils, you won't do any harm with 30W engine oil sold for lawnmowers etc on the spindle bearings and chain saw oil on the slides. Works for me.

    Richard

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  • philbur
    replied
    The search function isn't broken, it doesn't work with three letter words. Try Vectra or, or...... Alternatively you can search this forum more comprehensively via Google, but I can't remember the format, anybody. Or just Google the internet.

    Phil

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  • franco
    replied
    If your manual is the same as the one I found on line under Bolton Lathes, the chart on page 22 gives you a list of all the oil and grease points, and the intervals when these should be serviced. It also gives the types of oil and grease recommended. SAE 20 oil is the equivalent of ISO68 oil, so any ISO68 machine or straight hydraulic oil will be correct for the oil points.Your lubricant supplier should be able to give you a grease which meets the 3#CA specification, and a way oil such as Vactra #2 will be suitable for the ways and other sliding surfaces. What other information do you need?

    QUOTE: Thanks lakeside .... I just did as you suggested and tried the search engine here for "way oil" ... came back with nothing.

    Here is the result of a Google search for way oil:


    Some of the references might be useful.

    With regard to breaking in, my older Chinese lathe manual suggested running the lathe with no load at each of the speeds available for about twenty minutes, if I remember correctly, before starting to use it. This may not be necessary on newer lathes. It would probably do no harm though.

    franco
    Last edited by franco; 09-23-2011, 05:22 AM.

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  • lakeside53
    replied
    That manual is for a Sharp. Are you sure it's for your machine? If so, it also says to use DTE 26 for the headstock and DTE 27 for the apron/ways (automatic oiler). Your local Graingers can supply that, or mail order it and the way oil from Enco.

    Rather then chasing down DTE26, I'd just use generic AW68 hydraulic oil for the headstock - available at any Napa store.

    BTW the so-called search is broken on this site right now. It isn't working for me on anything. Goggle the intenet for "way oil" and you be buried in hits. You can also direct google to just search this site.
    Last edited by lakeside53; 09-23-2011, 04:03 AM.

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  • Farndurk
    replied
    Originally posted by lakeside53
    You can just google "way oil", or look in the Enco catalog, or even attempt ot use the worthless search function on this site for prior threads on the same topics.

    Oh... Vactra 2 is a common way oil. Squirt often enough so it stays lubed.
    Thanks lakeside .... I just did as you suggested and tried the search engine here for "way oil" ... came back with nothing.

    Ok .... thanks for the help anyhow ... I guess I'll hit up another forum for the basic info I'm looking for. Seems like something that should be kinda easy to find. Unless, of course, it is knowlege only bestowed upon those that are of the Jedi Order of Machinists.

    I live in Yuma, Az. (resources = low). I'll check the local Lowes and Home Depot. Otherwise maybe I'll hit up one of the owners of a local machineshop. Seems like a lot of trouble just to find out how to oil (and break in) a friggin lathe.

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  • darryl
    replied
    I got an oiler with my lathe. It's a hand pumped thing which has a tapered end on it which is supposed to make a seal against the oil points and depress the ball to allow oil to flow into it. I never know if I get oil into them or not, but I do know oil gets all over the place. I would not use way oil for the spindle bearings, but it's good everywhere else. All the rest is slow turning shafts and gears- nothing critical. I went to a local metalworking shop and brought a container with me, politely asking if they would sell me a small quantity of way oil so I didn't have to buy 5 gallons. No problem.

    I think if you're ignorant (no slight intended) about oils, you could use 3-in-1 for the spindle bearings. You can probably still get that just about anywhere.

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  • lakeside53
    replied
    They mean 20wt or 20SAE. Commonly ISO 32-46. Machine oil is usualy "non-detergent" and isn't engine oil. Will your lathe freak out if you use engine oil for the ways etc? nope...

    Use way oil, Vactra 2 or whatever.

    Just use the lathe normally to "break it in". Avoid extended high speed operation for the first few hours. Keep and eye (hand) on the spindle bearing temperature. If it has headstock/gearbox oil - change that after a few hours. My lathe is a lot more of a machine, and has a detailed 300 hour break-in schedule, but all that really means is not to use it more then 70% of it rated max speed until that period is up. I wonder if anyone ever took any notice of that?
    Last edited by lakeside53; 09-23-2011, 03:45 AM.

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