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  • garagemark
    replied
    Compressed air is a great tool, but only if you have a GOOD air dryer; otherwise it can do almost as much harm as good. warm wet air is not good.

    I've never been a big fan of "taking it apart" unless there is little recourse. If the mic has been wet for a short amount of time, I would simply use a slow heat source to evaporate the water out. It's unlikely that the tool would turn into a giant rust ball in a short amount of time. And the lubrication that is already on the tool is probably somewhat protecting the guts anyway and will not be lost.

    I had a caliper get wet once, and I placed it on a stove element; the one that has the oven vent in the center. Then I turned the oven on very low. The heat vented through the element dried things up quite well with no ill effects to the workings.

    If the mic has been wet for a long time, as in constant condensation, then yes, it should probably come apart and be well cleaned and re-oiled.

    2 cents,
    Mark

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  • bborr01
    replied
    Am I the only one here with an air compressor? I would want to get as much of the water out as soon as possible after taking it apart. Compressed air would do this.

    I have not seen anyone else recommend using compressed air to get the water out of the mic. Am I missing something?

    Brian

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  • Evan
    replied
    That gave me a chuckle.

    Several years ago a co-worker baked a few potatoes in our 10kw convection oven that we had for die work.

    He set the thermometer for 400 degrees, centigrade. Not much left of those potatoes.
    Heh. Back in the early '60s I was assisting my father with his research on fusion at the Lawrence Berkeley National Lab. He was using a coaxial reactor design to quantify plasma instability modes. The plasma was created by a microwave injector with an output of about 20,000 watts. The wave guide had a few ports in it for assembly purposes.

    We did a few calculations and some trials and figured out the precise time required to heat up a danish in the waveguide. The injector could be controlled to millisecond intervals. I don't recall the exact timing but it was only a few milliseconds to make a danish too hot to touch. There were a few "experimental failures" during the trials.

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  • Forrest Addy
    replied
    Yup. Here is the single beneficial application for WD. Lube it is not; but water displacement agent it is.

    Dismantle the micrometer to the extent possible and sluice it with WD-40. This will lift out and displace water, beads of moisture, and loose contaminants to an amazing degree.

    Then do the oven thing at 125 degrees F overnight. The warmth will not harm the tool. SWMBO may object because it will smell a little. This might be a good time to get a cheap toaster oven from from Vinnie's. Mild heat is handy in a machine shop. Be aware that WD40 will dry and leaves a soft film. This should be removed particularly in crevised areas because experience has led me to conclude me that it might be hygroscopic.

    Do this immediately for any precision tool that gets wet except for indicators with plastic lenses or tools with level vials. Then when you get a little spare time dismantle and clean the tool with toothbrush, pipe cleaners, toothpicks etc to bright unabraded metal. Oil liberally with Starrett instrument oil or similar. Blot off excess. Assemble using clean technique.

    Geared instrument movements are a whole other category. Unless you are experienced with clockwork and small mechanisms I strongly suggest you send the dewatered tool intact to a qualified repair station. Long Island Instrument is popular but there are many others, maybe in your town. It's perfect for cottege industry.
    Last edited by Forrest Addy; 10-04-2011, 06:19 AM.

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  • Paul Alciatore
    replied
    I am not a big fan of either the oven or WD. If you bake the water out, yes it will be dry, but the heat may accelerate rusting. It certainly will not prevent it, either now or in the future. WD may displace water, but will it move it completely outside of the mike? I suspect not. And WD is NOT an oil: IT IS PRIMARILY A SOLVENT. It contains very little or no oil. So it will not prevent rust. And it will evaporate, leaving, guess what? The leftover water that was not moved outside the mike.

    Mechanical or electronic, I would first disassemble it as far as possible and dry it with rags or paper towel as much as possible. All steel parts should immediately be wiped thoroughly with a clean, oily rag. Be sure to get the oil into all crevices, like the bottom of screw threads. Use a brush if the oily rag doesn't get it. If there are any mechanical areas (no electronics) that you can't disassemble for cleaning, try to flood them with a light oil, like penetrating oil and then flush the excess oil out with a solvent like WD. It will leave a protective oil film if it is not scrubbed out.

    If it is electronic, blow out all areas with electronics with dry air. Alcohol (99% variety) is good for cleaning circuit boards and most other electronic elements if the water was dirty. If the water was pure, the electronic components can just air dry. The oily rag will not hurt circuitry, but there is no real reason to use it there either. Don't get any regular oil inside any electronic components with mechanical parts like pots (variable resistors) or switches.

    One small drop of oil is probably enough to lubricate the threads.

    If you just must use WD, add about 10% of real oil to it so it will leave an oil film when it evaporates.

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  • rmwise
    replied
    Ditto on the WD40, good for tractors, not so much for precision stuff you value. Starrett M1 or other instrument oil would be best.

    If it's mechanical, take it apart, dry it, and oil it.

    Leave a comment:


  • tmc_31
    replied
    Wrecks,

    You haven't said whether it is an electronic mic or a mechanical (vernier) mic. If it is a mechanical mic, a little heat as from an oven on low shouldn't hurt it. However if it is a digital mic, you might try immersing it in some dry rice (or other desiccant) for a few days. This should draw the moisture out.

    Best of luck,

    Tim

    Leave a comment:


  • quadrod
    replied
    While wd-40 will displace water i don't know if i would use it on a mic or any thing sensitive. From past experiance with motor cycle cables wd-40 will get quite gummy after awhile.

    Leave a comment:


  • gwilson
    replied
    Kitchen ovens are just not very accurate,and can be off by 75؛. Not sure how far off at that low temperature. Wouldn't a hair drier be something you could control and check better? All this while,the rust is happening.

    Leave a comment:


  • bborr01
    replied
    Originally posted by Grind Bastard
    Let me reiterate: 120F not C.
    That gave me a chuckle.

    Several years ago a co-worker baked a few potatoes in our 10kw convection oven that we had for die work.

    He set the thermometer for 400 degrees, centigrade. Not much left of those potatoes.

    Edit: regarding the micrometers, I would unscrew the barrel and blow everything out with compressed air. Then WD-40 and more air. Then air dry for a little while. My 2 cents worth.

    Brian
    Last edited by bborr01; 10-03-2011, 11:47 PM.

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    I have an old hand-held hairdryer, left over from a long-gone girlfriend...... Comes in very handy for drying off stuff....

    If you leave something to dry, sure and it will get orange rust on it. But heat it up with the hairdryer, and it is dry too fast to rust visibly.

    best to take the mic apart, dry it as fast as you can with a hairdryer etc, and then see what needs cleaned off before re-assembly.

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  • Grind Hard
    replied
    Let me reiterate: 120F not C.

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  • 914Wilhelm
    replied
    120 degrees is Phoenix, AZ on a summer say. My uninsulated shop in OR hits 110 in the summer. Just make sure your oven control is fairly accurate.

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  • sasquatch
    replied
    The oven idea sounds a bit risky to me.

    Take it apart, dry it carefully, possibly place it in a warm airstream blowing on it? Then oil it carefully.

    Leave a comment:


  • MotorradMike
    replied
    Originally posted by gwilson
    I'd take it apart AT ONCE,wipe it out as well as possible,and spray in a BUNCH of water displacing oil. Not sure about putting it in an oven.
    I say WD-40, immersed if possible. Lotsa spray if not.
    I don't know about the oven idea either.

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