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  • Warner magnetic brake

    Warner magnetic brake.TB 1000...has anyone got experience of these things and could tell me how they work? How to set up and how to maintain?


    http://www.warnernet.com/PDF/P-771-WE_pg072-077.pdf

    and some good pics of the magnet on this ebay link

    http://www.ebay.co.uk


    So I am having a bit of trouble with this one...there are things that defy logic.

    Maybe PM me for a talk so as not to bore everyone



    Thanks
    "...do you not think you have enough machines?"

  • #2
    If you are looking for the brake device, they are fairly simple, one side is connected to the machine frame and the other a rotating disc that attaches to the rotary shaft, a DC voltage is usually used to energize the brake, this clamps the rotating disc to the stationary one for braking, you can get alternative types, one that brakes with power on, the other requires power to remove the brake action.
    The clutches are a very similar principle.
    In many applications you do not need a fancy controller, a simple DC bridge will work.
    The 90vdc shown can be run directly off 120vac with a bridge, although being in the UK your AC off the mains would be 240vac.
    Max.
    Last edited by MaxHeadRoom; 10-18-2011, 04:23 PM.

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    • #3
      Yes, Max, I thought they were fairly simple.

      The bit that I don't get is the rotor and stator run steel to steel, the steel referred to is the ring inside and outside the friction lining.

      So my problem boils down to two questions.

      How to stop this thing squealing?

      How do you know when it needs replaced?


      ....and thank you.
      "...do you not think you have enough machines?"

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      • #4
        I have personally never come across one that runs steel to steel, as the ebay link shows, it is usually a composite material similar to that used in auto brake pads or manual transmission clutches, either asbestos or now more likely some other composite material.
        Max.

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        • #5
          When they squeal its time to change the magnet, there is a composite material with the coil embedded along with a plate to make the magnetic attraction that makes it work. By varying the DC voltage is how much braking you get.
          Last edited by duckman; 10-18-2011, 05:54 PM.

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          • #6
            This one is not long new and has most of the lining thickness intact (has a wear indicator hole). Out of the box the magnet was skimmed flat, the steel body being the same level as the friction material.

            Its mating cast iron rotor is also flat.


            I understand the voltage and magnetic and braking power thing. My trouble is the steel rings on the magnet( as seen in the ebay pics) rub in the rotor and wear themselves into the rotor as wear progresses....and want to sqeal as they go.

            Something in me says the friction material should be higher than the steel but that is not the way it is made....

            maybe this is an uncommon version.

            but keep talking, i am out of ideas to make it run quiet.
            "...do you not think you have enough machines?"

            Comment


            • #7
              A couple of Warner engineering articles.
              http://www.warnernet.com/PDF/AutoGapFeatures.pdf
              http://www.warner-china.com/DAINCI1.pdf
              Not sure if it will help?
              Max.

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              • #8
                .....reading. Thanks for taking the time.
                "...do you not think you have enough machines?"

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Davidhcnc
                  This one is not long new and has most of the lining thickness intact (has a wear indicator hole). Out of the box the magnet was skimmed flat, the steel body being the same level as the friction material.

                  Its mating cast iron rotor is also flat.


                  I understand the voltage and magnetic and braking power thing. My trouble is the steel rings on the magnet( as seen in the ebay pics) rub in the rotor and wear themselves into the rotor as wear progresses....and want to sqeal as they go.

                  Something in me says the friction material should be higher than the steel but that is not the way it is made....

                  maybe this is an uncommon version.

                  but keep talking, i am out of ideas to make it run quiet.
                  Oil/grease or Ear-muffs
                  John

                  I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not so sure , but I'm not a complete idiot - some bits are still missing

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