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  • #16
    The serial number is on top of the knee, just behind the saddle handwheel.
    You will have to slide the chip cover back.
    go here to see the year
    http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/br...ridgeport.html

    nut 26 is an important function for the collet.
    You do NOT tighten the collet with the draw bar. You engage the drawbar with a collet and turn it 6 turns or more. Then you raise the nut 26 to tighten the collet. . This prevents wear and damage to the smaller threads in the collet AND the drawbar. It also gives a better 'feel' when tightening the collet.
    Telling me you have no 26. means they have overtightened the collet as you suspect. Do not use the drawbar for loosening the collet with a mallet, unless you have at least 6 and prefer 10 turns of engagement. Bridgeport had a collet remover which was a steel bar with a brass tip on the bottom the fit inside the spindle , but rested on the outside of the threads. the top end had a heavy brass knob, which used inertia to remove stuck collets, and no threads either on the collet or drawbar were used/damaged.
    Of course, the drawbar needed to be removed for its use
    Rich
    Last edited by Rich Carlstedt; 11-28-2011, 11:24 PM.
    Green Bay, WI

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    • #17
      Thanks Rich for the info.I cannot find a serial number there leading me to believe it's a 1936-1938. Also it has the vertical split top casting as shown here http://www.lathes.co.uk/bridgeport/page15.html. Anyone have a tool like this or pictue or drawing? Also I learned I have MT 2 collets. Thanks again everyone fot the help! Eric
      Last edited by flylo; 11-26-2011, 11:04 PM.

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      • #18
        Seems to me I recall seeing that type of casting on machines all the way thru WW-II 1944ish. It seems likely that they wouldn't have taken the time to make a new pattern. No serial number on the knee? Heard of a few that way, what about the serial number on the door?
        Mike
        Central Ohio, USA

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        • #19
          No serial number on the knee, I'll check the door. I've read the early ones were on the left like mine. Also I'm missing the drawbar & drawbar knob. Someone has used a pc of threaded rod & 2 nuts for the drawbar. The serial number I listed is on the head, any charts on head dates?

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          • #20
            I'm not aware of any list of head dates.

            If you were not aware Bridgeport mill serial #1 is on exhibit at the American Precision Museum, Windsor Vermont. I'd be curious to know what the head number is on it.

            PS as a side note I've recently seen Bridgeports listed at auction with body serial numbers in the low 100's. Never seen anything lower documented other than S/N 1 noted above.
            Mike
            Central Ohio, USA

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            • #21
              I was looking at the link for Tony's site and had never seen the version with the horizontal ram split, mine has the vertical split. Maybe it has something to do with early vs late production runs, mine is serial # BH-572.
              jack

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              • #22
                Originally posted by flylo
                They started making this model in 1936 which I think was there 2nd model. This model is far better than the 1st. The Model is 11897,ser M12038.I'll try to post a pic, I haven't done that yet.
                There are quite a few M head rebuilds documented over on PM and other sites with head serial numbers less than half of yours and base serial numbers indicating late 30s-early 40s. I suspect that yours is a mid to late 40s model close to the redesign of the turret with the horizontal split.
                Last edited by justanengineer; 11-27-2011, 01:49 PM.
                "I am, and ever will be, a white-socks, pocket-protector, nerdy engineer -- born under the second law of thermodynamics, steeped in the steam tables, in love with free-body diagrams, transformed by Laplace, and propelled by compressible flow."

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                • #23
                  Nope it's a 1940. No number on the knee but BH-397 on the LH door. Still works out. I learned to fly in & my 1st plane was a 1940 Taylorcraft. So I can learn to run mill on a 1940 Bridgeport. The reason I thout it was a '38 was I found a picture of one exactly like it including not having the large handle on the front of the head & someone had mentioned no number on the knee for the real early ones. Glad to know it's a prewar with a Morse Taper #2. Now when the collet falls out I'll be really happy!
                  PS A collet knocker would be a really great early Christmas present! Someone has to have one somwhere. Thanks again Guys!

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                  • #24
                    Hey Flylo
                    Check out this old post below .
                    i have my 1943 BP mill in it.
                    I will ask the friend of mine who has a collet knocker to photograph it, so I can post it. He still uses his M head.....

                    Rich

                    http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/sea...earchid=807338
                    Green Bay, WI

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                    • #25
                      Thanks Rich! A picture & dimensions would be great. Just think how cutting edge these were when they came out in '38. Eric

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                      • #26
                        Eric
                        Here are two photos of the knocker used on MT 2 collets in a M head.
                        They are not too good as the shop lighting isn't set for taking pics

                        The brass head is about 2 1/4" diameter
                        The steel rod is 7/16''s as I recall and you can see the knocking end ( also brass) on the far left side which is a heavy 1/2" diameter.
                        When the knocker sits on a retained collet, the brass head is still 3 inches above the the famous nut 26
                        The dims are estimates, as my friend did not give them to me
                        Rich



                        Last edited by Rich Carlstedt; 11-30-2011, 08:53 PM.
                        Green Bay, WI

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                        • #27
                          Thanks Rich! I ordered the correct grawbar & nut 26 from a place on Ebay, talked to the guy for 30 minutes. They are a machine shop also rebuiling tools & selling new & used parts. Great find. He knew all about all the Bridgeports & the knockoffs like my 3HP Roundtower BP clone & it's splined motor shaft. Also disscussed VFDs with him & he's the only one I'ved talked to that wasn't a fan of them. Next project is build the knocker. Thanks again! Eric
                          PS I couldn't pull up the picture of your mill.
                          Last edited by flylo; 12-01-2011, 12:32 AM.

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                          • #28
                            Eric,sometime when I get up Dogpatch way I would like to see your senior aged mill.

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                            • #29
                              Mike come up anytime. I'm north of Decatur 4 miles before I94.

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                              • #30
                                Flylo, Got some dimensions from my friend

                                The overall length of the rod is 22"
                                The carbon steel rod is 7/16"
                                The Hardened end is nickel (not brass) and is .475 diameter by 3/4" long
                                The Hardened end is threaded to the rod.
                                The brass head is 2 " OD by 1 3/4" long

                                Rich

                                Try this thread
                                http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/sho...ridgeport+1943
                                Last edited by Rich Carlstedt; 12-01-2011, 09:29 PM.
                                Green Bay, WI

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