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  • Antique Bridgeport Questions

    I bought what turns out to be a M head Bridgeport I believe was made in 1938 & it's single phase 110V I believe from the factory. The motors paint & everything seems to match the rest of the machine & was stamped 110/220V with the 220V stamped out. It suprisingly tight to be so old & every thing seems to work except the quill is stuck when I was trying to get the collet out. I think it's been a drill press for most of it's life & came with a nice vice & collets. Anyone familiar with these? I bet it was high tech in '38 which happens to be when my oldest plane was built. I love old iron! A also got an Enco mill, a 10HP 80 gallon Compressor,2 Lincoln buzz boxes & a Jet metal band saw with coolant system, all for (the best part) $225. God loves me! Not a Gloat just trying to learn more about the mill, it's a keeper. I really don't see it not doing most anything I need. Any advive,info & help will be greatly appeciated. Thanks! Eric
    "Let me recommend the best medicine in the
    world: a long journey, at a mild season, through a pleasant
    country, in easy stages."
    ~ James Madison

  • #2
    You know the rules,no pics is a vapor gloat

    The M-head,maybe a stuck quill lock,maybe rust in the quill splines,may be rust in the quill bore or a stuck quill pinion.
    I just need one more tool,just one!

    Comment


    • #3
      If you contact the current owner of Bridgeport (is it Hardinge?) they might still have literature on the M head.

      If you're lucky it'll have either a Morse #2 or B&S #7 spindle taper. If you aren't so lucky it'll be the proprietary taper which will make getting tooling hard (I've forgotten what this one is called, B7 maybe?).

      My M head is the B&S #7 flavor, so easy to get collets, etc. No idea the age on mine, single phase 120V, runs fine. When I got it the splined spindle drive sleeve was badly worn causing noise and vibration at speed. $80 for a new one around 10 years ago.

      Comment


      • #4
        I have 8-10 collets with it. It just suprised me how tight it is. I assume the collets come out the normal way,Right? I can't get it to unlock the collet. I sprayed PB Blaster inside the shaft & will try it again in the morning. I couldn't find my lead hammer. It was a great find for me.
        "Let me recommend the best medicine in the
        world: a long journey, at a mild season, through a pleasant
        country, in easy stages."
        ~ James Madison

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by wierdscience
          You know the rules,no pics is a vapor gloat

          The M-head,maybe a stuck quill lock,maybe rust in the quill splines,may be rust in the quill bore or a stuck quill pinion.

          I'm new at this & understand the rust parts but could you explain the quill lock & quill pinion please. I don;t want to break anything from ignorance. Oh I didn't mean it as a gloat, just need the info. Thanks!
          "Let me recommend the best medicine in the
          world: a long journey, at a mild season, through a pleasant
          country, in easy stages."
          ~ James Madison

          Comment


          • #6
            I have a Bp with the m head, it has a #2 morse taper.Have had trouble with the collet sticking in the taper with a bit in it.It seems like this happens when it has been ran enough to warm the spindle up, then take the bit out and replace it with one that is at a lower temperature,I think when this happens the cold bit expands as it gets warm and when the temp.is evened out it is tighter than when installed.
            What I do when this happens is to take the drawbar out,then put a bar in small enough to slip through the collet to the bit.Bump the bit out then put the drawbar back in to remove the collet.For some reason the bit will slip from the collet better than the collet from the spindle and once the bit is out the bit comes out easy.

            Comment


            • #7
              I'll try that. Is there any locks, pins, levers,etc. I should know about? It had a drill chuck that may have been on it for years that came off OK. All advice appreciated,Thanks! You know I may live long enough to fly my Taylorcraft & operated the Bridgeport when they turn 100 years old. How cool is that. Eric
              "Let me recommend the best medicine in the
              world: a long journey, at a mild season, through a pleasant
              country, in easy stages."
              ~ James Madison

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by flylo
                I'm new at this & understand the rust parts but could you explain the quill lock & quill pinion please. I don;t want to break anything from ignorance. Oh I didn't mean it as a gloat, just need the info. Thanks!
                Sorry,mis-read your question,yours has a collet stuck in the spindle.

                What I do is find a length of pipe big enough and long enough to slip over whatever bit is stuck in there and big enough to clear the outside of the collet,but still land on the spindle.
                I use it along with the mill table to support the spindle so the force of driving the collet out isn't transmitted to the spindle bearings.You might want a piece of sheetmetal between the table and pipe to prevent marring.

                Once it's supported do as Chipmaker said,or find your Lead hammer and give the draw bar a good rap or two.

                Oh and gloat away,we live for those pics and besides what you got for what you paid is a definate gloat worthy post.
                I just need one more tool,just one!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Ive seen the original Bridgeport machine, but never another from 1938. Please include a pic of the serial number please as I am curious which one yours might be.

                  Bridgeport made heads as an accessory for other machines for quite a few years before they made an entire mill, and I once saw a head on a Kempsmith that I believed was one of them due to a slightly different head casting. I am curious to see how yours compares to other newer models.
                  "I am, and ever will be, a white-socks, pocket-protector, nerdy engineer -- born under the second law of thermodynamics, steeped in the steam tables, in love with free-body diagrams, transformed by Laplace, and propelled by compressible flow."

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    1938 is I think fairly close to the start of Bridgeports. What is the s/n?

                    The American Precision Museum in Windsor VT has an early B'port --- possibly #1.
                    ----------
                    Try to make a living, not a killing. -- Utah Phillips
                    Don't believe everything you know. -- Bumper sticker
                    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
                    There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
                    Law of Logical Argument - Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
                    Don't own anything you have to feed or paint. - Hood River Blackie

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                    • #11
                      They started making this model in 1936 which I think was there 2nd model. This model is far better than the 1st. The Model is 11897,ser M12038.I'll try to post a pic, I haven't done that yet.
                      "Let me recommend the best medicine in the
                      world: a long journey, at a mild season, through a pleasant
                      country, in easy stages."
                      ~ James Madison

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        When removing colletts it takes 2 wrenches 1 big to hold the spindle and 1 small to unscrew the draw bar, loosen draw bar until it won't turn any more and then go a little bit more, the collett is forced out of the taper, unless some one has butchered the collett remover.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          As Duckman points out there should be a retaining nut holding the draw bar in. When loosened it backs off a bit and then hits the nut and pushes the collet from the taper.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            BP Info HERE

                            M head -
                            http://web.archive.org/web/200510281...bp1jmaster.gif

                            PS, Dont tell Sir john I told you
                            John

                            I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not so sure , but I'm not a complete idiot - some bits are still missing

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I am missing part 26 the drawbar nut, but there's a threaded shaft double nutted doing the same thing. I can loosen the nut tap on it or take the threaded shaft out & the collet remains stuck in the spindle. It had the drill chuck on it. I'm going to soak it inside find my lead hammer & it should come out. Who knows how many years it been in there. I'd rather take my time & not break anything. Great parts sheet. Thank you! Happy Thanksgiving to all of you & your families! Eric
                              "Let me recommend the best medicine in the
                              world: a long journey, at a mild season, through a pleasant
                              country, in easy stages."
                              ~ James Madison

                              Comment

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