Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Home anodizing

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Home anodizing

    I know that anodzing has been covered previously on the forum however I thought I would share the set up I have been able to put together in my garage. I use it to anodize 6061 aluminum parts that I have machined. The set up is not large but it works great. It took me a while to sort out some issues but I have finally been able to achieve consistant results.

    I wrote a couple blog postings on how I perform the procedure if anyone is interested. You can view them here;
    http://gordsgarage.wordpress.com/201...-monty-part-1/
    http://gordsgarage.wordpress.com/201...-monty-part-2/

    Thanks!
    Gord


    http://gordsgarage.wordpress.com/

  • #2
    Looks very nice. Just be sure that acid vapours are not near any machinery.

    BTW, fade resistance is very dependent on the colour. Reds fade the quickest while greens and blues the slowest. There is also a very big difference in fade resistance depending on the dyes you use.

    Nice writeup too. You are absolutely correct about cleaning. When it comes to anodizing cleanliness IS godliness.
    Last edited by Evan; 11-24-2011, 06:40 PM.
    Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

    Comment


    • #3
      Nice writeup and blog!

      Have you ever tried glass bead blasting before buffing?I go with stainless steel wool and kero first,then glass bead blasting and right to degreasing.I find I get the same results with or without sanding or buffing.
      I just need one more tool,just one!

      Comment


      • #4
        Wow, very professional results!
        "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

        Comment


        • #5
          That Is Just So Good!

          Comment


          • #6
            Very nice! Thanks for putting up the links to your blog.

            Comment


            • #7
              Excellent article. Thank you, Gord.

              The only things I wish I could see better are your polishing wheels. If you have time and inclination to post better photos of all three, I'd appreciate it.
              Mike
              WI/IL border, USA

              Comment


              • #8
                Could you use sodium hydroxide bath to clean the parts, if there is no need for the parts dimensions to be NASA grade?
                Amount of experience is in direct proportion to the value of broken equipment.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I always use a 15 to 20 second sodium hydroxide dip for cleaning before anodizing. The parts must be very completely rinsed after that to prevent carry over of lye solution stuck in holes etc.

                  The real secret for keeping the parts clean after thorough degreasing is to keep them under water until anodizing.
                  Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Gord,
                    Very nice presentation.
                    Thanks
                    Dave

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Evan
                      Looks very nice. Just be sure that acid vapours are not near any machinery.

                      BTW, fade resistance is very dependent on the colour. Reds fade the quickest while greens and blues the slowest. There is also a very big difference in fade resistance depending on the dyes you use.

                      Nice writeup too. You are absolutely correct about cleaning. When it comes to anodizing cleanliness IS godliness.
                      Thanks Evan, speaking of fading dyes I have yet to dial in my PH levels specific to the color. I have a chart outlining the ideal acidic levels for each color I just haven't done it. Do you have any opinions on dye PH levels?
                      Thanks!
                      Gord
                      http://gordsgarage.wordpress.com/

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by wierdscience
                        Have you ever tried glass bead blasting before buffing?
                        I have a glass bead blaster however the beads I am currently running are not, in my opinion, fine enough to provide a good finish. I guess part of me is nervous about blasting grease, oil, and grime into the pores. I suspect a good cleaning of the part would be required before blasting. Would you recommend blasting as a pre-finish before buffing?
                        Thanks!
                        Gord
                        http://gordsgarage.wordpress.com/

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Evan
                          I always use a 15 to 20 second sodium hydroxide dip for cleaning before anodizing. The parts must be very completely rinsed after that to prevent carry over of lye solution stuck in holes etc.

                          The real secret for keeping the parts clean after thorough degreasing is to keep them under water until anodizing.
                          Won't sodium hydroxide disolve the aluminum?? I know you don't want to get any thing aluminum in your hot bluing tank.

                          JL...............

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by MichaelP
                            Excellent article. Thank you, Gord.

                            The only things I wish I could see better are your polishing wheels. If you have time and inclination to post better photos of all three, I'd appreciate it.
                            Thanks Michael, if you look in the first posting located at http://gordsgarage.wordpress.com/201...-monty-part-1/ you will see that under the section entitled "Surface preperation" I added links to Caswells site that gives a better description of the buffing wheels I use.

                            Thanks!
                            Gord
                            http://gordsgarage.wordpress.com/

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Jaakko Fagerlund
                              Could you use sodium hydroxide bath to clean the parts, if there is no need for the parts dimensions to be NASA grade?
                              I used to use caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) and I never had any negative issues with it. It does, however, appear to pit the aluminum ever so slightly therefore I revamped my cleaning process to eliminate the caustic soda. I know many people use it however I wanted to maintain my polished finish as best as I could.

                              Thanks!
                              Gord
                              http://gordsgarage.wordpress.com/

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X