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Yes, the start cap had a resistor solder across the terminals. Yes, the switch is a light-weight piece of spring steel. Yes, there was some arcing.
It seemed to me though that the contacts were stuck in the open position. When I freed the switch I was actually reaching the length of the motor through the windings with a screwdriver because I removed the wrong end bell of the motor. My old motor had the switch on the "bottom" end. Whereas the switch is on the "top" (fan) end on this motor.
I cleaned it up good with 600 grit, brake cleaner and compressed air before reassembly. It seemed to be operating real well when I put it back together. Then I used it for over an hour. I probably started it 10 times or so with no problems. So far so good.
I feel like I've learned a lot about the motor. If nothing else, I'll know what to do next time I have trouble.
Thanks for all the help.
Jim
It seemed to me though that the contacts were stuck in the open position. When I freed the switch I was actually reaching the length of the motor through the windings with a screwdriver because I removed the wrong end bell of the motor. My old motor had the switch on the "bottom" end. Whereas the switch is on the "top" (fan) end on this motor.
I cleaned it up good with 600 grit, brake cleaner and compressed air before reassembly. It seemed to be operating real well when I put it back together. Then I used it for over an hour. I probably started it 10 times or so with no problems. So far so good.
I feel like I've learned a lot about the motor. If nothing else, I'll know what to do next time I have trouble.
Thanks for all the help.
Jim
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