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Reamer Evaluation and Refurbishment

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  • J Tiers
    replied
    Originally posted by tdmidget
    Read the post.
    He's looking at the wrong end to make that determination.
    Nice that YOU were born knowing that, and didn't have to have it explained to you.

    Others didn't have your advantages, and an explanation, instead of an obnoxious blow-off, helps out.

    Leave a comment:


  • tdmidget
    replied
    Originally posted by sasquatch
    Re: "You wouldn't understand it",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

    Man,,, some people just gotta be the miserable know it alls at times.

    Guess being unhappy with ones self produces out bursts against others!!

    This type of thing is not needed here !!!
    Read the post.
    ". Whereas a machine reamer is said to be one with only
    a very slight lead and a Morse Taper shank."

    So if it had a Jarno taper it would not be a machine reamer? He's looking at the wrong end to make that determination. Regardless of taper, shank shape , what ever the difference is at the cutting end. If one turned the shank on a Morse tapered reamer to cylindrical would it not still be a machine reamer? "Chucking " merely describes the shank as one that can be used in virtually any machine.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rustybolt
    replied
    I tend to like consistent predictable results, so I'll use a fixture.
    On most of the reamers I've used, granted mostly stub reamers, but also some chucking reamers, one of the lands is slightly advanced or retarded from the rest to keep the reamer from chattering in the hole. This is on straight reamers.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jaakko Fagerlund
    replied
    Originally posted by tdmidget
    Doesn't matter, you wouldn't understand it.
    Sounds more like you don't know how to explain it

    Personally I've resharpened reamers (the ones that are interchangeable to the end of a Morse taper shank) with perfect results. Sometimes by hand using a bench grinder or with a diamond wheel sharpening fixture -thingie. The hand sharpened I tend to use on a drill press or a manual mill as I would like to have a reamer on a CNC that will cut on every edge, makes it more easy/faster.

    Leave a comment:


  • sasquatch
    replied
    Re: "You wouldn't understand it",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

    Man,,, some people just gotta be the miserable know it alls at times.

    Guess being unhappy with ones self produces out bursts against others!!

    This type of thing is not needed here !!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Mcgyver
    replied
    Originally posted by tdmidget
    Doesn't matter, you wouldn't understand it.
    Why so nasty?


    The OP doesn't state what kind of reamer he's using. In any case, a belt sander seems a coarse method of re-newing the cutting edge or a machine or chucking reamer and doesn't address any damage or wear along its length.
    this doesn't apply to a reamer with a taper, ie hand reamers, but on chucking or machine reamers (same thing insofar as how they work is concerned) essentially Bob is right. At least insofar as the geometry of the ends need not be perfect....although i like a much finer finish on a cutting edge than from a belt sander

    Obviously its desirable that cutting edges are identical as would done with a T&CG, the cutting does take place on the end with the sides guiding the reamer in bore. So you hand sharpened a reamer and one tooth is significantly proud of the others and does all the cutting? So what? It'll work same that a D bit works....not ideal, but not trash worthy either.

    Reamers in my experience last just about forever if taken care of - not banged around, minimal material removed, used at low speeds and with cutting oil. I've lots going on 20 years of use and they're still sharp. It takes a long time to wear the end, the sides (which essentially guide not cut) wear so little its negligible, at least that I've seen....I'd bet they'd have to have been resharpened down to stubs before side wear became an issue. Dings or abuse on the sides could be stoned out by hand with no adverse affect - remember its cutting on the end. Mic them if you're concerned about side wear.

    Try taking a dull, old one with rust and with some care you can make it cut well with sharpening by hand.

    Difference between chucking & machine? my understanding is chucking reamers have a longer shank there to provide a small amount of flexibility - ie enough that if your drill chuck is .004" eccentric it will still follow the bore. The length of the shaft to dia is defined somewhere - they're not long because the maker expects you to need to ream an 8" deep 3/8 hole lol. You can get chucking reamers in straight shank or MT. Machine reamers otoh have a short shank and are meant for use in more exact tooling or floating tooling. afaik there isn't a difference to the business end....maybe some of the commercial shop veterans will offer opinions.
    Last edited by Mcgyver; 01-05-2012, 09:37 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • tdmidget
    replied
    Originally posted by EddyCurr
    As I understand it, there is some differentiation between chucking and machine
    reamers. A chucking reamer is said to be one with a short lead at the start
    and a parallel shank. Whereas a machine reamer is said to be one with only
    a very slight lead and a Morse Taper shank.

    Based on these descriptions, my newfound reamers are almost all chucking
    types, plus a couple of hand reamers (identified by the square drive on their
    shank.)

    .
    Doesn't matter, you wouldn't understand it.

    Leave a comment:


  • EddyCurr
    replied
    Originally posted by Rosco-P
    The OP doesn't state what kind of reamer he's using.
    As I understand it, there is some differentiation between chucking and machine
    reamers. A chucking reamer is said to be one with a short lead at the start
    and a parallel shank. Whereas a machine reamer is said to be one with only
    a very slight lead and a Morse Taper shank.

    Based on these descriptions, my newfound reamers are almost all chucking
    types, plus a couple of hand reamers (identified by the square drive on their
    shank.)

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • Rustybolt
    replied
    Originally posted by smalltime
    NO.............


    Precisely.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rosco-P
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by oldtiffie
    "Machine" reamers are parallel and have that 45 deg cutting edge at the "front" and that is where most wear occurs and sharpening or reconditioning a machine reamer is quite feasible.

    "Hand" reamers (non-machine ie driven by hand) are another matter as they are tapered. It is possible to "pick up" the taper and sharpen them on a good tool and cutter grinder.

    If I have any doubts at all about any reamer I toss it straight out as there is nothing worse than a reamer that jambs or snaps in the hole.
    Exactly, OldTiffie.
    The OP doesn't state what kind of reamer he's using. In any case, a belt sander seems a coarse method of re-newing the cutting edge or a machine or chucking reamer and doesn't address any damage or wear along its length.

    Leave a comment:


  • smalltime
    replied
    Originally posted by Rosco-P
    And was that a chucking reamer or a hand reamer you "touched up" on the belt sander? It still cut on size when you were done?
    NO.............

    Leave a comment:


  • oldtiffie
    replied
    Oops.

    Sorry JT.

    I didn't see your almost identical post.

    Leave a comment:


  • oldtiffie
    replied
    Originally posted by bobw53
    As long as the major diameter isn't worn out, easy to resharpen.

    They only cut on the end, so a quick zip on the belt sander, and you're good to go.

    Easier than sharpening a drill that's for sure. If all your flutes aren't exact, oh well, too bad, they still seem to work pretty well.

    Even if your OD is wrecked, re-size it on a lathe with a tool post grinder, sharpen the end, and now you are the proud owner of a mis labeled reamer.
    "Machine" reamers are parallel and have that 45 deg cutting edge at the "front" and that is where most wear occurs and sharpening or reconditioning a machine reamer is quite feasible.

    "Hand" reamers (non-machine ie driven by hand) are another matter as they are tapered. It is possible to "pick up" the taper and sharpen them on a good tool and cutter grinder.

    If I have any doubts at all about any reamer I toss it straight out as there is nothing worse than a reamer that jambs or snaps in the hole.

    Leave a comment:


  • J Tiers
    replied
    Chucking reamers cut on the end, yes, you "can" sharpen them that way. although I bet they cut a bit better if all the cutting edges are the same..... i.e. cut with some sort of solid fixture.

    A "hand" reamer is a different animal, much longer slow taper, and take a different approach to sharpen right. Doable on any tool and cutter grinder, if you set the tooth support correctly, and the table angle.

    Hand reamers might be more easily worn below size....

    Leave a comment:


  • Dan Dubeau
    replied
    Originally posted by Rosco-P
    And was that a chucking reamer or a hand reamer you "touched up" on the belt sander? It still cut on size when you were done?
    I've done a few chucking reamers that way. It only cut's on the tip, and it's only the tip you need to "touch up". Usually just touch them up with a hand lap, or stone, but I've used the belt to completely redo a few that have been broken too.

    I find a Loupe really helps out

    For drill/reamers that are really messed up (I.e. broken tips) I use this method. Chuck them up in a drill, and run it backwards against the belt to get the proper tip angle, and put it on center, then I colour the tip up with a sharpie, remove from the chuck, and grind the relief on by hand. Took me longer to type it out. Learned that from a guy I work with who used to sharpen cutters for a living. Might not be every bodies way of doing it, but it gives me great results.

    Leave a comment:

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