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  • The Artful Bodger
    replied
    Originally posted by J Tiers
    They have room. I don't.


    Would you like to try a rearrangment of your shop? In theory of course, just for fun. See if putting a bench in the middle with your machines on or around it would free up wall space for storage?

    Leave a comment:


  • J Tiers
    replied
    Originally posted by The Artful Bodger
    Maybe but dont most photos of large machine shops show the machines free standing?
    They have room. I don't.

    Originally posted by The Artful Bodger
    Besides, in a typical home shop wall space is valuable real estate for hanging stuff and I hate the thought of a half full can of paint falling off a high shelf and hitting a spinning chuck! I shudder when I see lathe tools on a rack behind the machine knowing that if it were my shop I would be someday tempted to reach over a running machine to get something.
    So don't REACH over a running machine....

    All I have back there is two shelves on the lathe itself that have items for setting up on the lathe..... Chuck keys, centers, tailstock chucks, etc. Unless my reflexes improve a LOT, I doubt I will be changing chucks while the spindle is running......... YMMV, you may like to do that

    I'd like to add a rack for boring bars, etc, but it's a solid concrete wall, with a very fat mix and flint aggregate... hard to drill in, no good for putting up shelves unless they have legs.

    If you put shelves for paint etc over the lathe, you deserve what you get, which is paint on the lathe, maybe, and surely oil on the paint cans or whatever other "stuff" is put up there.

    Besides, if you are working at the lathe, why do you need the paint right then?

    Leave a comment:


  • The Artful Bodger
    replied
    Originally posted by justanengineer

    To each their own, just a recommendation. IMHO you cannot be too careful. Way oil tends to attract and hold any and all dust and grit that may be floating invisible in the shop's air. I like working on old iron, and have a very deep appreciation for preventing possible wear having had some that many would consider "worn out." Am I being overly cautious? Is there such a thing?

    "To each their own", yes thats true but I think I will be a bit relaxed on this issue. No I dont store things on the lathe ways and I dont use the nice machined top surface of the flat ways as an anvil, however I did wash all the red dragon fat off the lathe when it was new and have no intention of putting it back on.

    Leave a comment:


  • The Artful Bodger
    replied
    Originally posted by J Tiers
    best thing behind lathe is............. a wall...... if you MUST put something over it, so be it... the wall seems to work OK by itself.... Yes there IS a streak on it..... OK......

    Maybe but dont most photos of large machine shops show the machines free standing?

    Besides, in a typical home shop wall space is valuable real estate for hanging stuff and I hate the thought of a half full can of paint falling off a high shelf and hitting a spinning chuck! I shudder when I see lathe tools on a rack behind the machine knowing that if it were my shop I would be someday tempted to reach over a running machine to get something.

    I really, really like my scheme of putting bench top machines back to back on a bench that I can walk right around, even more so if there is room to easily clean between the machines.

    Leave a comment:


  • J Tiers
    replied
    best thing behind lathe is............. a wall...... if you MUST put something over it, so be it... the wall seems to work OK by itself.... Yes there IS a streak on it..... OK......

    Leave a comment:


  • psomero
    replied
    i've set up a few different types of backstops for mills and lathes and have had pretty good results with the following:

    1. Plywood with a quality chemical-resistant lacquer like varathane, screwed to a wall behind a bridgeport. It's super cheap, looks decent, and the varathane makes the stuff basically impervious to staining and increases the dent resistance of the wood drastically.

    2. Coroplast corrugated plastic sign board material behind a mill, held to the wall with drywall screws and fender washers. It's also cheap or even free if you can find surplus material, it's chemical resistant, and lightweight. I've seen movable chip guards made out of the stuff too, which works decent because it's rigid and lightweight. It can get munched fairly easily, but is easy to replace and spare panels last forever and are light, so you can stash a bunch in a corner somewhere.

    3. Stainless sheet screwed to the wall behind a mill, custom bent stainless sheet chip/slop pan for lathe. Pricey, but probably the best looking and most durable. I guess galvanized or powdercoated steel would be nice too, because you can stick magnetic stuff to it, but corrosion may become an issue over time.

    4. Plexiglas or lexan. Expensive, but also durable and looks nice.

    5. 3+ mil plastic drop cloth for a really messy lathe job with coolant. Cheap, but basically a one-shot application that looks the most rube goldberg of them all.

    The best materials have good chemical resistance and don't get torn up very easily by flying debris. A lot of people have suitable materials just lying around, so experiment and see what works best for you.

    Leave a comment:


  • winchman
    replied
    I built a light wooden frame covered with air-core plastic from an old political sign. The lower edge fits into the drip pan.

    The side with the guy's picture is toward the wall.

    Leave a comment:


  • justanengineer
    replied
    Originally posted by The Artful Bodger
    I dont know what you are cutting in your cold saws but this one does not throw grit or debris, just little curly metal shavings..
    Mainly scapbinium of the steel and iron variety, but occasionally something a bit more expensive...

    They still create it. Abrasive saws make a lot. Cold saws make significantly less, but they still make it. Even your lathe makes it, its a necessary byproduct. Thinking that a machine tool creates chips, not grit and other airborne particles can be a rather dangerous assumption, especially if you begin working with any decently high concentration of lead.

    Surface grinders usually dont toss grit any significant amount, yet many shops still put them in a room completely seperated from other machines.

    My bench grinder has a vacuum attachment that catches 99.9% of the grit, but that doesnt mean I would use it within 20 ft of my lathe.

    Some people think its ok to set a chuck wrench or other tool directly on their lathe's ways, if done "carefully." I still use a wood "shelf."

    To each their own, just a recommendation. IMHO you cannot be too careful. Way oil tends to attract and hold any and all dust and grit that may be floating invisible in the shop's air. I like working on old iron, and have a very deep appreciation for preventing possible wear having had some that many would consider "worn out." Am I being overly cautious? Is there such a thing?
    Last edited by justanengineer; 01-08-2012, 11:09 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • philbur
    replied
    Paint it.

    Phil

    Originally posted by goose
    I'm currently re-sheetrocking the shop and want to put a handle on the mess. I figured maybe plastic laminate or Masonite might be a good surface, although plastic laminate can be pricey. Suggestions? Non-porous to wipe clean ? or will that allow oil to drip down to the floor?

    Thanx,

    Leave a comment:


  • The Artful Bodger
    replied
    Originally posted by lakeside53
    And they barely "throw" at all...

    Thats true, almost all the chips fall through the hole in the base and drop onto the metal tray underneath.

    Leave a comment:


  • lakeside53
    replied
    And they barely "throw" at all...

    Leave a comment:


  • The Artful Bodger
    replied
    Originally posted by justanengineer
    You should seriously consider moving it if you value your lathe. Even slower cold saws still throw up a ton of grit and debris.
    I dont know what you are cutting in your cold saws but this one does not throw grit or debris, just little curly metal shavings..

    Leave a comment:


  • KIMFAB
    replied
    I find a piece of tin by the headstock will catch most of the spray.



    Easy to clean too.

    Leave a comment:


  • justanengineer
    replied
    Originally posted by The Artful Bodger
    The saw is extremely rigid and the saw turns very slowly, only about 40RPM. I doubt any higher speed machine could be rebuilt rugged enough to handle a blade like that.
    You should seriously consider moving it if you value your lathe. Even slower cold saws still throw up a ton of grit and debris.

    As to the OPs question, I would recommend either moving the lathe out from the wall or simply screwing some plywood to the wall. Whatever you do, you want it to be replaceable for when (not if) something gets tossed at it at a rather high speed. IMHO drywall and other things "cosmetic" do not belong in a shop, period. If you want a showroom to display your toys, build one. If you want a garage, build a garage. If you want a shop, especially if you do much welding/cutting, build a proper shop.
    Last edited by justanengineer; 01-08-2012, 12:45 AM.

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  • lakeside53
    replied
    My lathe came with a pretty nice idea - piece of sheet metal about 18 inches wide attached 6 inches behind and to the back of the carriage, bottom angled down so chips fall in the chip tray. The sheild moves with the carriage and keeps most of the mess under control.

    Leave a comment:

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