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  • Tank sealant??

    Well, another tank sealant thread. But what I would like to know is if any of you have used any of the available sealants on a NEW tank.

    I'm looking for something that will work well with the tender tank I'm building for my live steam locomotive. It will hold water, not fuel. Because the tank will be riveted together like the prototype, the sealant needs to be more than just paint; it needs to seal along the seams and rivets.

    I've heard from other live steamers that the tank sealants don't adhere well and that they will separate from the metal where it comes to an edge at any openings in the tank.

    While I understand that an old rusty tank may give some tooth for the sealant to grip, this will be new metal. I could scuff sand the metal before assembly.

    I called Caswell about theirs but I felt that the person I talked to blew me off. She answered my question by telling me to follow the directions on the can and put drywall screws in the tank and shake it. Well, I'm smart enough to know that the purpose of this is to knock off any loose rust, not to otherwise prep the metal for adhesion. When I tried to explain that this was new metal, she interrupted me and repeated the line about the screws and directions on the can. Her tone of voice made it clear that that was all the information I was going to get from her.

    So to reiterate: If any of you have used tank sealers on new metal, did it adhere well, and what brand did you use? THANKS!
    Greg Lewis
    Eyeball Engineering
    Our motto: That looks about right.
    Turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap since 1983.

  • #2
    While looking into a coolant tank leakage on an EMD E9 locomotive, one of our rail museum members, a retired aircraft mechanic, recommended we look at aircraft fuel tank sealants. While I have no hands-on experience with this material, there is a lot of info on the internet about these products. One interesting discussion is here: http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/tank_sealant.pdf The material is copyrighted by the author, Paul Trotter.

    Perhaps worth looking into....

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    • #3
      Thanks, Video Man. I'll bet that these products work as a failure at 15,000 feet could be troublesome. I'll check them out.
      Greg Lewis
      Eyeball Engineering
      Our motto: That looks about right.
      Turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap since 1983.

      Comment


      • #4
        Tank sealant

        I had a Mooney aircraft that had a leaking fuel tank and we sealed it with PPG's Pro-Seal sealent.
        It was still holding 5 years later when I sold the airplane.
        Bill
        I cut it off twice and it's still too short!

        Comment


        • #5
          Braze it! Much better then some 'sealant'

          A good silver braze (Or even a decent silver solder but.. braze works so much better) would wickin to the joints like nobodys business. Brass braze can be coaxed into doing it too. But silver brazes can give you a water tight join the first time, with little experiance.
          Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

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          • #6
            Thanks, Seastar, I'll check that out.

            Black Moons: Good idea but with a sheet metal tank I'd worry about distorting the sheets at that temperature. But you gave me the idea to experiment with soft solder, though. There's no pressure on the tank. But I also need to coat the interior against rust.
            Greg Lewis
            Eyeball Engineering
            Our motto: That looks about right.
            Turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap since 1983.

            Comment


            • #7
              Silver braze melts around 1100f, I never noticed any tank distortion on the stupidly thin formed tank I did it on to add another port, but then I can see reason for consern.
              Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

              Comment


              • #8
                Greg,

                I'm assuming the tank is now fully together and there is no way to actually access the tank? I will usually bead blast my tank prior to joining that way there is tooth. Hand sanding works too, but again, only if you have access. Acid etch is an option. It all depends on the type of tank. I'm assuming this is brass?

                Aircraft tank sealant is all I've ever used and that's normally on a used fuel tank not new. Aircraft Spruce should have what you need. Not familiar with the Caswell stuff. Regardless, it must be a 2 part product or it's not worth purchasing...

                Ken-

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                • #9
                  Boy, I have to say that using a soft solder would be easy, and if you pre-
                  fluxed it, it would be both quick and almost foolproof.

                  Downsides would be potential corrosion from the flux, and appearance.

                  Sandblasting the material before you assemble it would help a lot with mechanical
                  'keying' if you do decide to seal it internally...

                  t
                  rusting in Seattle

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for the tips, guys.

                    Kenrinc:

                    The tank isn't built yet. I am trying to think of these things before it's too late. The material is 20 ga. steel sheet.
                    Greg Lewis
                    Eyeball Engineering
                    Our motto: That looks about right.
                    Turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap since 1983.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      At Northwest Airlines we used PRC 1422 for a general purpose sealant. I see it is now PR 1422. It was used for fuel cells and pressure sealant in the fuselage. Also used lots and lots to seal floor boards in the cabin and lavatory. Once it cures it is hard to remove. Ask the guys that had to chase leaks from a fuel cell. Like a leaking roof it comes out some where else.

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                      • #12
                        I don't remember the number but I have used a lot of PRC with good results. I don't know what it cost. The people that manufacture galvanized sheet metal water tanks coat the inside with a paintable sealant. I saw it being applied on tanks at the old Mueller facility at Balinger, TX. It works great and lasts for years.
                        Byron Boucher
                        Burnet, TX

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                        • #13
                          Second (or third) on the aircraft tank sealant. It is a very robust product, nearly impossible to remove once cured (assuming a reasonably clean surface) . It is available in high & low viscosity,"A" being the least viscous, "B" the most, and in different pot lives, from 15 minutes to 2 hrs.

                          This same product is used to seal the pressure vessel of pressurized aircraft.

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                          • #14
                            If you plan on using soft solder to seal the tank it will make the job easier if you tin all the surfaces that lap each other before you do any assemble.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Glyptal red-

                              http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/glyptal.html
                              I just need one more tool,just one!

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