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Refinished my baby lathe

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  • Refinished my baby lathe

    Just thought I'd share this - nothing major, but I got sick of the tired old finish on my jeweler's lathe. The plating (nickel, maybe?) had flaked off badly in a few areas and surface rust had set in. I always wanted to paint one of my lathes a really loud color, so I went for it. Cheap lacquer spray paint, in case I didn't like it. Turns out I like it a lot, so when this stuff wears off I'll have to see what I can find for good rugged paint in a similar color.

    Here is the "before":


    Here it is now:
    Max
    http://joyofprecision.com/

  • #2
    Sorry if this is a stupid question,but are you sure the quill is not put backwards into the tailstock?

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    • #3
      Wow, I like it. Good job!

      How did you go about hiding the rough spots where the plating had come off?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by gwilson
        Sorry if this is a stupid question,but are you sure the quill is not put backwards into the tailstock?

        Hey I KNOW it is!

        Handles on back out of the way.

        You do get maybe another inch C-C his way.....
        1601

        Keep eye on ball.
        Hashim Khan

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by gwilson
          Sorry if this is a stupid question,but are you sure the quill is not put backwards into the tailstock?
          Haha nope, it is definitely in the correct way.

          Edit: I'll elaborate on this, because I can see this starting a big argument for no reason. The way I have it in the pic is the most convenient arrangement, not only because the levers are to hand but I find there's more clearance for graver work. I've always run it this way, without even thinking of anything else, because it's how I noticed other watchmakers working. It wasn't until I bought my instrument lathe (in another post somewhere) that I realized running it the other way was even something to consider (my instrument lathe has a screw feed tailstock and so the quill can only go through in one direction). I honestly don't know why anyone would run the tailstock turned around the "correct" way on one of these that doesn't have a feeding tailstock.
          Last edited by mars-red; 01-29-2012, 09:23 AM.
          Max
          http://joyofprecision.com/

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Deus Machina
            Wow, I like it. Good job!

            How did you go about hiding the rough spots where the plating had come off?
            Thanks very much! There ended up being nothing to hide - I stripped the plating completely (elbow grease & abrasive - no small feat, it was really thick plating) on both the headstock and tailstock. The small amounts of pitting in the bead didn't seem worth the effort and the paint filled them in quite well. After working them over with abrasive paper (600 grit followed by 1000) I hit them with a buffing wheel.
            Max
            http://joyofprecision.com/

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            • #7
              While reading and starting to scroll down, i thought, Oh NO not purple or lime green or something,,,,But i do like that,, and the job looks very inpressive too!

              And the make of the lathe is ??

              Comment


              • #8
                I had a car that color! I believe the color on the car was a burnt orange pearl or something. Looks good! The little lathes come in very handy when you need them. I like my little unimat for tiny parts.
                Andy

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by sasquatch
                  While reading and starting to scroll down, i thought, Oh NO not purple or lime green or something,,,,But i do like that,, and the job looks very inpressive too!

                  And the make of the lathe is ??
                  Thanks very much! It is an E. Rivett - I bought it before I realized their earlier jeweler's lathes took a proprietary collet type. Fortunately this one turned out to be a standard WW pattern. It's been a long time since I looked into it, but as I recall the machine seemed to be made sometime in the 1930s.
                  Max
                  http://joyofprecision.com/

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    As long as the centers of the headstock and the tailstock align perfectly,I don't se why you can't use the tailstock as you are using it.

                    However,if you go to Tony Griffith's website,and look at the Rivett watch maker's lathe pictures,their tailstocks are arranged the other way around.

                    To each his own.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by gwilson
                      As long as the centers of the headstock and the tailstock align perfectly,I don't se why you can't use the tailstock as you are using it.

                      However,if you go to Tony Griffith's website,and look at the Rivett watch maker's lathe pictures,their tailstocks are arranged the other way around.

                      To each his own.
                      You are correct there, all the hours I spent on that site and I never noticed that. I think once I have a cross slide for this machine (I only have the t-rest right now) then the clearance will be much less of an issue (my hands won't be in there, trying to get comfortable). Perhaps then I can run it "as nature intended"
                      Max
                      http://joyofprecision.com/

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I would think there would be MORE "stuff" in the way as you have it..... The "toe" of the tailstock, the handles......... stuff sticking out....

                        Since use of the tailstock for between centers turning is less common with watchmaking (so much is turned simply in a collet), you can just take it off when you don't need it. then NO problem.

                        If you also have a jeweling tailstock, you will take off the one you have on to use the other anyway.

                        And when you DO use the T/S, for drilling etc, you don't need your hands in there so much.
                        1601

                        Keep eye on ball.
                        Hashim Khan

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have an incomplete old watch lathe that has what looks like an original olive drab paint job on it. Can't recall the make. Wonder if it was military?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by gwilson
                            I have an incomplete old watch lathe that has what looks like an original olive drab paint job on it. Can't recall the make. Wonder if it was military?
                            Neat! I know there were a lot of military documentation and specifications regarding watch repair so it wouldn't surprise me if there were military versions of some of the equipment as well. I don't suppose you have any pics? I know I'd love to see it!
                            Max
                            http://joyofprecision.com/

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by J Tiers
                              I would think there would be MORE "stuff" in the way as you have it..... The "toe" of the tailstock, the handles......... stuff sticking out....

                              Since use of the tailstock for between centers turning is less common with watchmaking (so much is turned simply in a collet), you can just take it off when you don't need it. then NO problem.

                              If you also have a jeweling tailstock, you will take off the one you have on to use the other anyway.

                              And when you DO use the T/S, for drilling etc, you don't need your hands in there so much.
                              Most of the work I've done on it so far has involved using the tailstock to support the work piece (winding stems and balance staffs are quite long in relation to their diameter). I've spent a lot of time just practicing making balance staffs and for those I start with the tailstock being used for support and then for finishing I turn between centers using a tiny dog. The contour of the "tail" side of the tailstock gives more clearance, with the same amount of quill "overhang", for the outside of my right hand and wrist - the levers are never in the way. Although with this paint I may not like the idea of resting my hand against the bottom of the "tail" like I often do.

                              I desperately need a cross slide for this thing, and when that happens this will all be a non-issue - I anticipate it will only be for finishing balance staffs that I'll be using the t-rest and a graver (or perhaps also for making jewel settings, but the tailstock would be removed for that anyhow).
                              Max
                              http://joyofprecision.com/

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