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  • Fitting bandsaw blades

    Anyone got an easy way to fit bandsaw blades. It took me 20 minutes to fit mine today.
    MBB

  • #2
    metal cutting bandsaw??

    Release the tension, remove old blade, then replace with a new one?

    Then readjust tension, check tracking?

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    • #3
      With mine it may take that long to "un-load" the thing to get at it.
      :-)
      ...Lew...

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      • #4
        Maybe the blade was the wrong size?
        I've ordered blades for my little 64-1/2" bandsaw and received 65", and 65-1/2" which required some modification to increase the machines 'range'.
        I also received a 64" blade once which I couldn't use, since the wheels didn't go in that far.
        Usually, normal removing/installing should only take about 2 minutes.
        Loosen tension, remove/install, tighten up.

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        • #5
          I don't know if it is relevant to the OP, but I've had a similar experience to KidZima' with the little 4x6" saws. I had the most terrible time fitting (and keeping on) the blade which came with mine. I never questioned the length because it was a genuine Lenox blade on a brand new "new" South Bend saw. Eventually it snapped, and I ordered a new blade. I was dreading installing the new one (a Starrett from McMaster) because I expected to have to machine a completely new adjustment bracket to not have the blade be so crazy tight. The Starrett, though, was an accurate length and the original Lenox almost an inch short! No problem. Moral of the story... Always check length.

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          • #6
            What kind of saw is it?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by malbenbut
              Anyone got an easy way to fit bandsaw blades. It took me 20 minutes to fit mine today.
              MBB
              I'm not sure what you mean by "fit", but if you're having trouble keeping it in place, try using binder clips to hold it on one wheel while working on the other.
              Someone here suggested that years ago, and I found they helped.

              (google "binder clips" if the term is unclear)

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              • #8
                #1. make sure the teeth are facing the right way. It's a little annoying to struggle with a blade with a mind of it's own and finally get it on the wheels and in the guides only to find the teeth are facing the wrong way (time for a single malt) Pinch it in the middle. arrange it on bottom wheel, keep tension on that one while slipping over the top wheel. don't worry about the guides yet. Tension the blade enough to keep it on the wheels and only then slip the blades into the guides, fully tension and jog the saw to check it's going to stay on. As my lennox blades usually last 6 to 9 months (used every day) it's taken a long time to get good at this exersize. Peter
                The difficult done right away. the impossible takes a little time.

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                • #9
                  I usually just place the blade into the guides, top and bottom, then fuss with getting them onto the wheels and up to the flange. At that point I walk the blade around both wheels at the same time until it's on, then keep it there with one hand while tightening the upper wheel. When the blade seems tight enough to stay on, I go around both wheels pushing the blade to the flange. Then I tighten more, close the cover, run the saw for a couple seconds, tighten a bit more, run it a second or two, then bring the tension up to where I want it.

                  I do have one problem with the cost of the blades- you're paying 5 to 7 dollars per foot for the 64-1/2 inch blade. You can buy a hacksaw blade for a third of that price, and it has two holes in it and the ends are rounded. Sure, the bandsaw blade needs to be welded- but how long can that take when you are set up for it-
                  I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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                  • #10
                    Thanks to all who answered my query. It is a 64.5 blade on the saw.
                    By the time I went to put the blade on the top wheel it came of the bottom one or vise versa. I have found some spring clips used tto hold paper in place on a drawing board or easel and used them to keep blade in place. It now takes less than a minute to change blades now.
                    Same method that Lynll suggested.
                    Someone may have a better method considering the number of these machines in use.
                    MBB
                    Last edited by malbenbut; 04-01-2012, 06:09 AM.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by darryl

                      I do have one problem with the cost of the blades- you're paying 5 to 7 dollars per foot for the 64-1/2 inch blade. You can buy a hacksaw blade for a third of that price, and it has two holes in it and the ends are rounded. Sure, the bandsaw blade needs to be welded- but how long can that take when you are set up for it-
                      The smaller the blade the harder it is to weld. Those little blades are also hard because the length needs to be closer. On a larger machine we just add a half inch to the target length and go. You loose about a quarter inch welding. I believe we do 10 - 20 blades per hour. Its mostly the grinding that takes the time. Bad grind or tooth match and its not going to last.

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                      • #12
                        I usually , on my small saw (64 1/2" blade) place the blade thru the guides first, then around the bottom , and then while holding tension on the blade to keep it on the bottom, slide it onto the top , wheel & tension correctly....30 sec . , no clips , close the cover ...done....Shawn

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