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Parting tool advise

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  • #31
    I also ask is the tip of the cutting tool binding? it is imperative to back the tool out early on, into the cut,and return it back into the shallow groove, however set it a tad to the right or left of this groove to widen the path for the cutting tool to take.keep doing this so that binding does not occur during the process .I have actually laugh if you like , done this as I was taught by books videos etc on woodturning where this is also always done.In any case I don't accept you should part off with nervous intrepidation and be extremely anxious, as I have read about some people over the years. Alistair
    Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease


    • #32
      One thing I do that no one else has mentioned is to put inward pressure on the QCTP to take up any slop on the cross feed threads. This really helps keep the tool from digging in.


      • #33
        It has been mentioned a couple times now about play in the setup. As kev just suggested, taking out the play helps a lot. I've used his method, but better is to get the slides working well, with as little play as possible. There's already enough flex in the tool holding to allow for grab- then play just makes it worse.

        One problem I had with my lathe was that the rear of the carriage could lift off the rear way easily. Most of the weight is in front, so the front way stays in contact, but you could rock the carriage and make a small gap at the rear. There is a tab that prevents it from lifting right off, but unless there is full contact, there will be the potential for a cutter to either dig in, push back, or do a combination of both. I found that I couldn't make any adjustment there that would allow a free motion left and right for the length of the bed, without having some play in spots. I solved that for this lathe by making a spring-loaded bearing that keeps the rear way in contact without binding. Has been a significant improvement.

        I've also made a few holders that mount directly to the cross slide without using the compound. It's sometimes amazing how much better things work when you don't have that extra play and flex.
        I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-


        • #34
          First off, use the "P" blades as they only require that 6-8 degrees of clearance be ground on the front. The "P" blades are the ones that are T shaped with the trough down the middle. The "T" blades have tapered sides and must be ground all over to use.
          The lantern has to go. At the very least, put a solid spacer in place of the rocker.
          With HSS, a good dark cutting oil is a must. Just for fun I have tried ATF, hydraulic oil, gear oil and a semi synthetic water based coolant and by far the best results and finish were obtained with the sulfurized, chlorinated, cutting oil.
          FYI, the Aloris tool holder adds 4 degrees of back rake.
          Put the tool on center, if you put the tip below center you run the real risk of having the part roll over the bit, this breaks things.
          Have fun with it, Mike
          Last edited by mf205i; 01-26-2015, 01:22 AM.