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  • What will these do

    What kind of jobs can one of these do besides sharpen drills???? I take it that they are not a universal tool and cutter grinder.

    http://www.wttool.com/common/images/...e/28130005.jpg
    The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

    Bluewater Model Engineering Society at https://sites.google.com/site/bluewatermes/

  • #2
    That is not a drill grinder its made for making "D" bits and if your really clever you can make tapered reamers. Had one and sure wish I still had it.

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    • #3
      precisely dimensioned single point tools for a lathe. Think grooving tools, threading tools, radius tools all ground from round HSS blanks.

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      • #4
        Just about any custom cutter you can imagine. Get a CBN and a diamond cup wheel, and you can cover both steel & carbide. Tapered single-flute cutters, bull nose endmills, countersinks with any included angle, engraving cutters, ect. I won't speak for that one personally, but the Deckel that we have in the shop has sure helped me out a time or three.

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        • #5
          What about sharpening between centers like reamers ETC., that doesn't appear to be doable.
          The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

          Bluewater Model Engineering Society at https://sites.google.com/site/bluewatermes/

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          • #6
            Originally posted by loose nut
            What about sharpening between centers like reamers ETC., that doesn't appear to be doable.
            reamers are sharpened by grinding the facet on the end, they're sized by carefully stoning along the body.



            That is not a drill grinder its made for making "D" bits and
            why couldn't this do a good job on drills, i do faceted ones on my T&CG and think I see how you'd do the same on that

            precisely dimensioned single point tools for a lathe. Think grooving tools, threading tools
            imo, unless there is some sinebar/angle block way to set it, the degree markings on the index are not enough resolution to get a decent threading tool. I've done these in the T&CG and still you end up stoning them so you get a proper fit in the thread gauge. Next version of a multivise I make have a way to incorporate a sine bar aor set of angle gauge blocks so you get it dead on....degrees marked on a 2 or 3" diameter circle aren't enough. I recently got a compound sine table - not that on the surface will do an accurate lathe tool !
            .

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            • #7
              I'd have thought that by now there would be a lot more people here who were quite competent at "off-hand" sharpening of drills without the need for any other tools or aids.

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              • #8
                Originally Posted by loose nut

                What about sharpening between centers like reamers ETC., that doesn't appear to be doable.
                Originally posted by Mcgyver
                reamers are sharpened by grinding the facet on the end, they're sized by carefully stoning along the body
                Machine reamers yes.

                Hand (tapered) reamers no as they are sharpened on the flutes just as an end-mill cutter is.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Mcgyver
                  .....................................
                  imo, unless there is some sinebar/angle block way to set it, the degree markings on the index are not enough resolution to get a decent threading tool. I've done these in the T&CG and still you end up stoning them so you get a proper fit in the thread gauge. Next version of a multivise I make have a way to incorporate a sine bar aor set of angle gauge blocks so you get it dead on....degrees marked on a 2 or 3" diameter circle aren't enough. I recently got a compound sine table - not that on the surface will do an accurate lathe tool !
                  A good digital (or vernier) protactor is calibrated to 0.1 degree (6 arc minutes) the sine or tan of which are: 0.00174 which is 0.00174" per inch over the 1" radius of a 2" base (where the rotation angle marks are) - or 0.0026" over the 1 1/2" radius of a 3" base.

                  Check Machinery's Hand Book (mine is 27) as there is quite a bit of allowance for threading tool angles.

                  I'd use a good protractor instead of a "fish" screwing tool when setting the screwing tool symetrical about the cross-slide axis too.

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                  • #10
                    Sure machine reamers don't need between centers grinding, but it just makes life so much easier when you have a long reamer so you get support for the grinding operation.

                    What comes to hand grinding drill bits, sure it is easy to sharpen them, but to do it exact requires plenty of training and time to check and verify that it is correct. With a sharpening machine you remove all that "eyeballing" and get symmetriticy (spelling?) easily, as well as the proper angles.
                    Amount of experience is in direct proportion to the value of broken equipment.

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                    • #11
                      In my opinion, all reamers (machine and hand) should be sharpered between centres.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by oldtiffie
                        In my opinion, all reamers (machine and hand) should be sharpered between centres.
                        I can see merit in that, certainly wouldn't hurt as there is going to be some run out with a collet.

                        on drills, I made a little hardened V block with micrometer tooth rest that goes on a univise (that i made). do one side then indexing 180 (using the tooth rest) for the other, kind of fool proof. If you haven't seen it yet, here are some pics. I can sharpen by hand and do for roughers but mostly I now use this as it as nice having drill bits cut pretty much spot on

                        http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=51449
                        .

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