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OT: Toilet tank valves for high pressure systems???

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  • OT: Toilet tank valves for high pressure systems???

    A friend of mine has been complaining about his toilet tank valve causing water hammer when the valve closes. The water pressure where he lives is pretty high (around 75-80 psi), and the noise was annoying. We picked out an old-style valve with the float on an arm to install in place of the one that had a float around the inlet pipe inside the tank.

    Sure enough, the new valve closes quietly, but it makes a loud noise when it opens. It's just as annoying as it was before.

    What kind of toilet valve will open AND close quietly when the water pressure is that high?
    Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.

  • #2
    Why not fit a pressure reducer immediately before the cistern valve, not the cheapest way to do it. Other thing that can be done is make an airspring which is basically a blind air filled cylinder tee'd off the supply pipe. When the cistern valve closes compression of the air trapped in the cylinder soaks up the energy which other wise would create the water hammer.
    West Sussex UK


    • #3
      I can't say whether the air spring will work or not. What some might not think about, water will gradually absorb the air and they become water-logged. They're not maintenance-free.

      Dave Cameron


      • #4
        Dave, I wouldn't disagree with that. You can however fit a Shraeder tyre valve and pump air back into the system when required.
        West Sussex UK


        • #5
          Better air springs have diaphrams or similar to prevent the air escaping.

          Alternatively, a much better idea is to fit a pressure regular for the entire house! You will find things like flushing the toilet don't cause the shower to go so hot and you won't hear the 'rushing' sound of water any time someone turns on a tap. Also will improve the life of your pipes and valves.

          Where I live, with 100psi water pressure, anyone using the toilet would wake me out of a dead sleep due to the 90db sound comming from the water pipes! (They run under my room) A regulator droped it to like 40psi and 60db when the toilet is flushed (or bathtub used)
          Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.


          • #6
            I had similar/multiple problems (washing machine, dish washer, shower, drips.... and more) due to 85-90 psi water supply. A whole house reducer to 50psi solved that.

            Some toilet valves have an adjustment for fill time. The other way (hack) is to just turn the supply valve on partially (check it doesn't leak at partial settings.)


            • #7
              Won't a simple closed riser located above the supply line do the job? Probably not easy to get to the needed pipes though. It is an effective way to deal with water hammer, no maintenance required.Bob.


              • #8
                The air in the risers gets dissolved on the water over time. Good arrestors use a piston or diaphragm. They are pretty cheap too:



                • #9
                  I think we've kinda drifted off the original question here. Is there a toilet valve out there which will open and close quietly when used on a system with high pressure?

                  It's a rented house, and the shutoff valve at the street doesn't close well, so he can't make any changes/additions other than replacing the toilet tank valve itself.

                  He tried partially closing the shutoff valve at the wall before we changed the old valve in the tank. With the flow reduced, the valve in the tank started chattering when the tank was nearly full, closing and then reopening very rapidly over and over causing a terrible pounding in the pipes until he was able to reopen the wall valve.
                  Last edited by winchman; 05-20-2012, 01:30 AM.
                  Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.


                  • #10
                    I would not try to find a valve that will work in this situation since the pressures are to high for all the remaining valves in the house. About 50-60PSI is all that should be going to the house. Install a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) and eliminate more than just the toilet as a problem. They are normally placed right after the meter at the supply entry.


                    • #11
                      Rental? call the landlord and get it fixed.


                      • #12
                        I use the pressure sensitive valves on all my toilets, rather than the float activated ones. They close much more slowly and are quieter in operation. Plus they last about 2 to 3 times longer than the float valves. That is the first thing I do upon moving into a new place.



                        • #13
                          A&S, I've never heard of a pressure sensitive toilet valve, and I can't find any useful info on them by searching. This is what I found:
                          "A pressure-sensitive valve is a simple, round valve that sticks up about 1/2 inch from the bottom of the tank at the cold water in-feed pipe."

                          Who makes them, and who sells them? I don't see anything at Lowes or HD that looks like that.

                          The landlord wouldn't do anything about it. "It works, so live with it."
                          Last edited by winchman; 05-20-2012, 05:48 AM.
                          Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.