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Power hacksaw blades

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  • Power hacksaw blades

    Hello I have a three and one half cut power hacksaw that I am trying to get to cut square. It was called to my attention that I need to find a blade made for a power hack. The size is ten inch. I have a Nicholson blade in it now.It does not cut square even with no weight on it, It is new.Anyone know who makes a ten inch blade for one of these saws? Thanks Gene Shatrowsky

  • #2
    Buy the best is my only reccomendation as I am in the uk Scotland I can't offer you local advice.Have fun Alistair
    Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease


    • #3
      One option would be to buy 12" blades, make a new hole at the proper place and cut the extra off. Starrett and Morse both make good blades.


      • #4

        Hello Alistar you typing was fine.Firbk That was going to be my next question. Thanks to both of you gentlemen for taking your time to post. Gene


        • #5
          I bought mine from KBC. My big power hacksaw never cuts straight though.
          "Patriotism is the last refuge of a scoundrel"


          • #6
            I bought 60 14" on ebay dirt cheap, new & 11/4" wide. Check there.
            "Let me recommend the best medicine in the
            world: a long journey, at a mild season, through a pleasant
            country, in easy stages."
            ~ James Madison


            • #7

              10" blades - all of the power hacksaw blades I've seen were longer. It sounds to me as if this is a machine made to accept the standard 10" hand hacksaw blades. I once had a Kennedy like this.

              A few things to look at:

              How much tension do you have on the blade? It should be about the same as a hand hacksaw would have (it's doing the same job).

              Is there any play in the arm pivot, or on the sliding mechanism?

              Is the blade clamped vertically in its holder?

              Is it cutting on the pull or push stroke? Maybe swapping the blade around would help - depends if it has a hydraulic relief mechanism to lift the blade on the return stroke.

              Note - when you say it won't cut square, I guess you mean the blade wanders sideways as the cut progresses - not that the work's not being held square in the machine...

              All of the gear, no idea...


              • #8
                get an actual power hacksaw.........


                • #9
                  I have an old Atlas hacksaw. I use 12" hand saw blades in it . A crooked cut is standard. I've adjusted it to cut straight, but when the blade is changed, the cut is crooked again. I don't think the hand hack saw blades are rigid enough or made uniformly enough to consistently cut straight. No real need for them to be so, you steer the cut when you're cutting by hand.

                  I wonder if a small light saw could even stand the stress of driving a thicker power hacksaw blade for long.

                  Dave Cameron


                  • #10
                    If the blade retaining mechanism permits it, install two of the coarsest (if that's a word) blades side by side. The resulting cut will be wider of course, but on the last Mini power hack that I saw, that was the set-up.
                    The owner stated that he could no longer find "real" blades for it and this was his solution to not finding a stiff enough blade. He did show me the old blade; unlike the typical 1-1/2" high power hack blade, these looked like a hacksaw blade only slightly scaled up. They were thicker, 3/32" or so and only about 1" high but just as long as a little short hacksaw blade (10").

                    FWIW, His saw was a Troyke (like the rotab people that is why I remember it) but the logo was different. I googled when I got home and found no matches.
                    It was also turn of the century, as the castings it was made from would make it an ideal "interior decorators" piece. Extremely artful Is all I can say. When I first eyed it at a tracor show , I thought it was a foot powered Singer sewing machine.
                    If it permits, give it a try.
                    Bricolage anyone? of lifes fun games.


                    • #11
                      All the power hacksaw blades I,ve come across have been an 1/8 or more thick and as such very rigid!
                      You could always cut one down to 10" length.

                      I have tools I don't know how to use!!


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Ian B
                        Is it cutting on the pull or push stroke? Maybe swapping the blade around would help - depends if it has a hydraulic relief mechanism to lift the blade on the return stroke.
                        The power saw at work has a 3-phase motor and the machine has hydraulic feed/lift and cuts regularly on the push stroke. However, I noticed that when reversed, it will cut on the pull stroke, as the hydraulic pump acts in reverse. It is just a small oil pump basically, not a "real" hydraulic pump.
                        Amount of experience is in direct proportion to the value of broken equipment.


                        • #13
                          My old Qualters & Smith donkey saw cuts on the return stroke it's designed to work that way.

                          It never used to cut straight always an angle on the finished product.
                          The tip for my saw was to ensure the blade tension is set exactly as per the manufacturers instructions "insert blade take up the slack then tension by the screw 1-1/2 turns"
                          rarely have more than a sixteenth off now.

                          I always use "suds" too this helps stop any heat distortion of the blade.


                          • #14
                            My Racine Power hacksaw, a WW II Veteran, was designed to cut on the return stroke, and is called a draw cut saw. Although I have no written "proof", I believe that cutting on the return stroke, will make a straighter cut because the blade is placed under tension as it cuts rather than pushed through the cut causing the blade to deflect.