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  • #16
    As someone mentioned earlier, getting a subwoofer is a "must." A system that combines all the frequencies into one speaker will distort and lack detail. The best result in any stereo/audio setup is to send each frequency range (highs, mids, and lows) to their own speaker.

    The only word of caution I have about the "old" Sony receiver is that if it's really old, the power supply might not be what it used to be, which can also cause distortion even when running through top-quality speakers. Once you settle on the speakers you want, it won't take long before you figure out if that's an issue or not.

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    • #17
      Don't forget that when you piece together a system including a sub, you run the risk of overlapping frequency ranges. Without a proper crossover your main speakers will be producing some of the lower range while the sub is doing the same. It's easy to get the system to sound 'boomy', or otherwise 'not right'. Some such thing might sound 'good' to start with, but may quickly become tiring. An equalizer can help, but most often it can't solve this problem, and proper crossovers with variable turnover points, etc are rare to find.

      On a budget, I'd strongly suggest looking at the complete systems, not separate components. They have been engineered to work together, and so generally avoid the 'mismatching' problems. You can have a heck of a good sounding system if you mix and match, but you can also have a mediocre sounding system after having paid a lot of money for it. Better to have an 'ok' sounding system with a lot less cash outlay, especially if you're not in the audiophile class.

      If you do go with separates, then choose your speakers carefully, as has been suggested several times, then consider adding a powered sub that has at least some crossover adjustments. If you go for a passive sub, it will need an amp and some means of tailoring the frequency response, and now you're into a can of worms. But you should also look at the back of your tv- it may have signal-level outputs for a sub and surround sound, and it probably does have all the surround sound processing in it. If that's the case, you just need amps and speakers, and you do everything including volume from your tv remote. That usually includes selecting the mode based on what it is you're listening to, usually movie formats, but sometimes includes classical music.

      As I mentioned before, it's easy to duplicate functioning. If you buy a complete system, it's probably going to have all the 'sound processing' that your tv has. You would use one or the other, but not both together. It might come down to using the one that's easiest to understand and push remote buttons for. How many complicated remotes to you have, or want to have- and do you want to have yet another?

      Gone are the days when you would walk over to the stereo, turn it on, then set the volume and sit back and enjoy. You damn near need a license these days to operate the system.
      I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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      • #18
        The advice of Paul and others to spend your money on good speakers first is very sound (no pun intended!). Crap speakers will always sound awful no matter what drives them.
        And when listening in a shop, don't be on a hurry. Many speakers sound OK at first, but become tiring after half an hour or so.
        I'm surprised to see you say that there are only two organs in the world with 64' stops. That could possibly be the case for an open diapason, i.e., a 64'-long open-ended pipe, which certainly is rare, but the are surely plenty of instruments with a 64' stopped diapason, i.e., a 32' pipe with the end closed off to make it sound an octave lower.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Mike Burch
          I'm surprised to see you say that there are only two organs in the world with 64' stops. That could possibly be the case for an open diapason.
          You must be an enthusiast, too! I just started learning about pipe organs. Have a friend that built his own very tiny pipe organ using copper plumbing pipes and a computer controlled gizmo to play it. He got me interested in how these amazing instruments work.

          There is the 64' Contra Trombone in the Sydney Town Hall Grand Organ and then the 64' Diaphone Dulzian in the Boardwalk Hall Auditorium organ. I don't know much about the Sydney Town Hall Grand Organ, but I became interested in the (sad) story of the Boardwalk Hall Auditorium organ. The Diaphone Dulzian stop includes a true 64' pipe which can be played with the 42 and 2/3' fifth extension/mutation pipe to reproduce the sound of a 128' pipe. Similarly, one can make acoustic fakes of 64' stops using a 32' stop and a 21 1/3' fifth extention and these are common in big organs, from what I understand.

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          • #20
            I hooked up a pair of powered speakers like computer speakers and it sounds resonable and cheaper than anything suggested so far!

            Roland make some model MA 15D powered speakers for studio type monitoring, They would sound good too at about $150 a pair.

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            • #21
              For the sub, you could always build it...

              I have one in the family room, a commercial "grey box", which takes the line level sub output from a Sony 5-channel audiovisual amplifier (5 x 100W), the sub's only 30W but it fills in the bass end quite well (at least, once I adjusted the crossover in the amp) although the main speakers aren't too bad themselves ("Eltax" twin-5"-woofer column speakers). The speakers came from Eblag for £30 the 5 (2 main, 2 rear and an on-the-tv centre speaker), the amp from the same place for £70, so a bit of shopping around can pay off

              In the Grown-Ups' Lounge, I have a pair of Bowers and Wilkins DM2 speakers from the 70's - they came out of the BBC Radio 3 monitoring suite, where they listened to off-air broadcasts to check the sound quality on... Organ music! Although they don't sound "loud", people think they've been struck dumb, cos they can't hear *themselves* speak... The bass goes low, too - they came with the original charts, which show 'em at 3dB down at 22Hz and tailing off slowly - and all from a 6" bass speaker! It sounds smoother and deeper than the commercial sub, very much so - the sub is a bit "one-note-bass", great for explosions in movies, crap for organ music!

              So... to the subject of DIY.
              The B&W's are "transmission line" speakers, using a long folded path from the rear of the speaker cone to put its radiated sound in phase with the front at low frequencies - the upside is smooth, deep bass, the downside is physical size and complexity of the carpentry, but they're within the capabilities of a half-decent carpenter if he wants to build a *real* sub-woofer - seek online and ye shall find
              I've seen a few that are designed to fill that useless gap behind the sofa, might be perfect for your needs? I'm told they go down below 10Hz with the right speaker chassis, some of the serious ones are "mass-loaded" and I guess this could be a DIY proposition too?

              Dave H. (the other one)
              Rules are for the obedience of fools, and the guidance of wise men.

              Holbrook Model C Number 13 lathe, Testa 2U universal mill, bikes and tools

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              • #22
                I had bought a 42" LCD HDTV (Toshiba) a few years ago but never upgraded the old Sony receiver (not an "AV" type) that I was feeding with two RCA type wires off the TV to ml old Hafler 200 bookshelf speakers. The Sony finally quit just before Christmas, so two weeks later I bought a Denon AVR-1912 at Best Buy.

                I bought it home, bought some HDMI cables, moved stuff around, added a pair of Infinity Sterling SS-1000 speakers, a Polk 10" powered sub-woofer and now have and simple, cheap system that actually sounds better than most of the store-bought package deals. The receiver cost me $500, the Haflers were bought in 1988, the Infinity's were $50 (new in box) off Craigslist, the sub was a free cast off from my youngest son, and he also gifted me the Polk center speaker. The HDMI cables are the only thing that drove me over the $650 mark, total.

                Is it Class A audiophile? No. I go listen to my buddy's Logan Martin/Rotel/ADC system when I need that. Does it sound better than the cost? You bet it does!

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                • #23
                  I could consult with some of my neighbors, here. Almost every one of them seems to be "dyed-in-the-wool" audiophiles. It's not unusual for them to start playing a number in the middle of the night, early in the morning, or when you're trying to enjoy a nice relaxing afternoon.

                  The music they listen to is tailor-made to be played on their stereo setups.
                  No organ music.....primary instruments are usually a jack-hammer, large hollow log, or a slow-firing machine gun. The systems favored are easily purchased at WalMart or the local wrecking yard, and the speakers are usually the only thing that anybody spends money on (some are as big as manhole covers, and about as heavy). Of course, they use 10,000 watt pre-amplifiers and heavy duty Chinese lamp cord to tie things together. They most frequently find homes in cheap Korean or Japanese economy cars, for reasons I'm still not aware of. Using fuses or fusible links is something they frown upon and running a Pep Boys economy series car battery completely dead (with the engine running) is the only thing that limits their concerts...well, that, and the local police.

                  I personally would simply use the RCA jacks on the TV, connected to a reasonably priced pre-amp with a built-in graphic equalizer. But that's me. When I get time, I'll ask the "experts".
                  Last edited by saltmine; 05-30-2012, 10:55 PM.
                  No good deed goes unpunished.

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                  • #24
                    I would suggest a cheaper route - an estate auction/sale. Many older folks spend the money to enjoy the finer things in life and leave behind very nice/lightly used AV equipment. Even if you spend $100 to get $1k+ of equipment, its well worth it.

                    My living room setup COST me a bit over $1k (some new, some used from friends). My garage setup MADE me $195, as I bought two complete good quality home systems at an auction (auctioneer is paid to clean out estates and needs things GONE). $5 filled my pickup with Kenwood, Sony, and Bose which was sold inside of a week. I kept a matching Kenwood receiver and disc changer, a pair of Bose bookshelf speakers, and one of the subs bc it all fit on a small cart with my old iMac.
                    Last edited by justanengineer; 05-30-2012, 11:14 PM.
                    "I am, and ever will be, a white-socks, pocket-protector, nerdy engineer -- born under the second law of thermodynamics, steeped in the steam tables, in love with free-body diagrams, transformed by Laplace, and propelled by compressible flow."

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                    • #25
                      I recently picked up a Onkyo TX-NR609. Great receiver. 5 HDMI in, plus VGA, and your generic Component, composite, s-video, and optical inputs. The receiver is on the network and can connect to a bunch of streaming services like Pandora. 7.2 channels. All this for A bit over $300. It even has an iPhone remote app to act as a remote control.

                      It is very versatile. Allows you to adjust for mismatch is audio and video. Has a little microphone that you move around the seating area to figure out the optimal levels for the channels.

                      For my speakers I have Pioneer fronts and center with a 8" Polk sub at the front. On the sides of the couch I have Bose 401, In back above the couch is a couple old Bose 100's and on the floor is an Audiosource 10" Sub. Nothing special about the bose, really didn't pay for them.

                      Sounds great.

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