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Learned More on Paper about Tungsten Disulphide

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  • Learned More on Paper about Tungsten Disulphide

    Since I brought up the Tungsten Disulphide a while back, I figured I'd share what I learned.

    After doing some more research about Tungsten Disulphide, it appears that it has to either be blasted onto or lapped into the surface to work. The stuff came from NASA and the aerospace companies say you get near permanent lubrication with a .5 micron layer thickness. Apparently, it forms a pretty good bond with the surface once it gets on there.

    While I was researching, I found some of the aerospace companies in LA that use the stuff. Dicronite won't even sell WS2 lubricant, they will either apply it for you or license the process.

    --Cameron

  • #2
    Interesting -- that's not entirely consistent with the web page cited on the other thread. At least, the "blasting" on the lowerfriction.com site consists of 120 psi, which is spraying it out
    of a sandblaster nozzle:

    http://www.lowerfriction.com/product...p?categoryID=1

    Two established ways the WS2 powder can be used are:

    1) Mixing the WS2 powder with wet lubricants (such as oil, grease & other synthetic lubricants):
    The powder can be mixed 1wt% to 15wt% (as required) with grease or oil. This will enhance lubricity of the mixture and also improves High Temperature and Extreme Pressure properties of mixture. During the use, WS2 in the mixture will get coated on mating/moving parts, which in turn reduces friction and improves lubricity and load bearing ability for much longer cycles.

    2) Coating the WS2 powder on a substrate requiring (dry) lubricity:
    The powder can be coated by spraying (at 120 psi) the substrate with dry (& cool) pneumatic air. It does not require any binders and spraying can be done at normal room temperature. Coated film will be 0.5 micron thick. In an alternative application method, the powder can also be mixed with Isopropyl alcohol and this paste could be buffed to the substrate. The coating applications are already established in many areas such as Automotive parts, Racing Car Engine and other parts, Aerospace parts, Bearings (Linear, Ball, Roller etc), Shafts, Marine parts, Cutting Tools, Blades, Slitters, Knives, Mold release, Precision Gears, Valve components, Pistons, Chains, Machinery components and many other areas.
    "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

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    • #3
      Originally posted by ckelloug
      .......
      Dicronite won't even sell WS2 lubricant, they will either apply it for you or license the process.

      --Cameron
      Cameron, I'm a little confused by that statement. That link in lazlo's posting presents an option to buy it. ...1 lb bag for $54.

      Is the "Dicronite" you mention a different supplier?
      Lynn (Huntsville, AL)

      Comment


      • #4
        Lynn, Thanks for pointing out the confusion.

        I was trying to clarify the apparent troubles using WS2 cited by the gentleman who was trying to make a moglice replacement and found WS2 to be more sticky than slippery.

        I am in LA right now and I was nominally trying to lubricate the column in a CH Products flight yoke so that the PC based flight simulator we have at Harvey Mudd College will work better. I was curious to try WS2 since it is dry and said to be permanent. I looked for LA suppliers of WS2 and found Dicronite:

        Dicronite http://www.dicronite.com/ is a company that will treat parts with WS2 but won't sell the WS2. They talk a lot about wanting licensees for their process.

        My point in bringing this up was that it appears that successfully using WS2 may be a bit harder than dusting the surface you want to be slippery with the stuff. I brought up something very slippery which is also apparently hard to use. . .

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        • #5
          I have heard of some burnishing their automatic pistol slides with ws2 as well.

          I haven't tried that, but I'm about to add ws2 to my recenly acquired Ranger on the next oil change.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by T.Hoffman
            I have heard of some burnishing their automatic pistol slides with ws2 as well.
            It's also very popular to coat bullets (for reloading) with WS2

            http://www.6mmbr.com/bulletcoating.html
            "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by ckelloug
              My point in bringing this up was that it appears that successfully using WS2 may be a bit harder than dusting the surface you want to be slippery with the stuff.
              I'm curious to try this method described on the lowerfriction.com web site:
              "the powder can also be mixed with Isopropyl alcohol and this paste could be buffed to the substrate."
              "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

              Comment


              • #8
                Lazlo, that method tweaked my interest as well. If it works as well as blasted-on coating, it would be a good all-round method for the home shop.
                I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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                • #9
                  Worth a try. Where do you buy it?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Better link.

                    http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...ullet-coating/

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      so, i mixed it with alcohol, rubbed it onto a polished shaft. after it dried, it came off, it scratched the shaft. i rubbed it onto a rough shaft. it embedded a little. so i have a slippery rough shaft?

                      race a the granite plate:

                      i put three ground buttons on a clean, polished granite surface. one used way oil, one a mix of tds with same way oil, third was dry.



                      i then raised one end of the plate and watched. after having done it several times, here is the result:

                      tds button takes off a little earlier, but the way oil button is much faster. big surprise: third button takes off first and is off the plate by the time the other ones start moving.

                      hmm, putting the stuff into my engine, i dont know. the sucessful application of tds probably is not trivial.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Firing blanks

                        Dian,

                        is that one of those Rohm blank-firing pistols to the left in your photo? My brother-in-law once gave me his non-functional one for cleaning - I couldn't believe how much soot and gunk could accumulate inside... but it worked again once I scraped out the rubbish.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by dian
                          tds button takes off a little earlier, but the way oil button is much faster. big surprise: third button takes off first and is off the plate by the time the other ones start moving.

                          hmm, putting the stuff into my engine, i dont know. the sucessful application of tds probably is not trivial.
                          ...don't think this is the most telling way of doing this.
                          Not that I have a great way of doing home-shop experiments with ws2, but this doesn't seem like the best expeirment.

                          I would think looking at a friction wear pattern over a length of time with treated vs untreaded might be a better approach?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by T.Hoffman
                            ...don't think this is the most telling way of doing this.
                            Agreed - he's measuring stiction. Like you say, Tungsten DiSulphide is closely related to Molybdenum Disulphide -- it's an extreme pressure additive.
                            "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              eupho, thats exactly what it is, a rِhm rg3 6 mm. i didnt even notice it was there.

                              otherwise im mainly interested in reducing the stick slip (for shop purposes). if this doenst do it, i will no more mess around with it.

                              as i stated before, the stuff doesn feel especially slippery. also, it scratched the (unhardened) shaft.
                              Last edited by dian; 06-01-2012, 06:20 AM.

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