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Good news, bad news about saw blade for the Doringer

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  • Good news, bad news about saw blade for the Doringer

    The good news is that we no longer need to worry about getting it sharpened.

    The bad news is that sharpening wouldn't do it any good.

    Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.

  • #2
    I hope no one was injured in the destruction of that blade.



    • #3
      Nope. The blade broke as it approached the end of a miter cut on a piece of 2" x 1/4" steel angle. All the pieces dropped on the saw table.

      Any suggestions on what to do with the pieces? I'm sure it's pretty good hardened steel, so it should be useful for something.
      Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.


      • #4
        Make good cutoff blades if you could get them cut without annealing the metal..


        • #5
          ulu knife?


          • #6
            I think I'd be sending it back to Doringer and ASK THEM what to do with it.

            I used their saw and blades for many years, never had that happen!


            • #7
              Man, that scares the bajeebus out of me regardless if it happened at near stall speed. I just never hope to see a circular blade of any kind looking like that in my shop!


              • #8
                I work with rotory transfer machines and use those blades, that is prity common. Ofcorse in my case thay are inside a machine with the lid locked. Thay only run at about 200 rpm.
                Craftsman 101.07403
                Grizzly G0704
                4x6 Bandsaw


                • #9
                  The Doringer web site lists 54 rpm as the blade speed. I wouldn't think it would likely do too much damage shattering at that speed.
                  Lynn (Huntsville, AL)


                  • #10
                    Blades break. Buy a new one.

                    My dad made some knives out of the old one. Darn sharp.


                    • #11
                      My first thought was that if you are going to use parts of it to make a tool or whatever, you should fully anneal it first. Make the part, then re-harden it.

                      Someone might offer a more educated opinion, but I'm thinking that there could be stress peaks in the material that you could get rid of by annealing and re-hardening.
                      I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-


                      • #12
                        A little J B weld and it will be as good as new.
                        Guaranteed not to rust, bust, collect dust, bend, chip, crack or peel


                        • #13
                          Silver Braze it together

                          Some "billet" silver solder and your barbecue you should make it almost as good as new.

                          On a serious note, I have cut "saw plate" with my vertical metal cutting bandsaw. I used a 3/8 inch 10/18 pitch blade and it worked fine. Drilling is another thing altogether -- It is drill all or none, if you pause it will work harden instantly.