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Steel for tiller blades

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  • Steel for tiller blades

    I have a friend that has an old Maletti tiller that needs replacement blades for. This tiller hasn't been made for some time and the correct blade isn't available. ( We have tried everyone selling replacement blades withoput any luck)
    The needed blades would be easy to make but I am unsure of what steel to use. The old blades are some type of carbon steel but don't seem to be too hard.
    I am thinking something like 4140 PH or ?? Got any ideas?

    Thanks, Norm

  • #2
    Mangenese. Not that hard to work, but wears well.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by kf2qd
      Mangenese. Not that hard to work, but wears well.


      I would think Manganese would be quite difficult to make something like tiller blades, even if it could be found in thin strips. If you heat Manganese to try to bend it like is normally done with carbon steel it breaks like hot cast iron and even cold bending leaves it very weak in the bend. Besides wouldn't it be far to brittle for something thin like a tiller blade? Some type of high carbon steel that can be hardened after forming by heating and quenching would seem to be what is needed.

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      • #4
        What about old leaf springs?

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        • #5
          Tiller Blades

          You want an Abrasion Resistant plate - typicaly we use AR, QT100, or QT360 for similar applications. Depending on where you are located your local steel supplier should be able to fix you up. You can get the parts waterjet, plasma, or laser cut to size, so there is no secondary machining - other than forming and/or sharpening. The above steels are tough, but machiniable with carbide tooling (and high speed steel - causiously).

          Patrick

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          • #6
            blades

            A previously mentioned use old automobile leaf springs or if you are in a rural location, try your county road maintenance shop and obtain a few used road grader blades.

            JRW

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            • #7
              Like J.R. Williams and Sasquatch mentioned, automobile leaf springs would be my first choice for readily accessible material. While maybe not a perfect choice, it would sure as heck get the job done for this not so high-tech application.
              The abrasion resistant steels would of course be a first choice. Think of a source of material wherever steel comes into constant contact with dirt. I've used grader blade cutting edges, cultivator, and harrow pieces and even good old 1045-1065 steel.

              For Maletti blades have you tried these guys?

              Maletti tiller blades
              Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
              Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

              Location: British Columbia

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Shuswap Pat
                You want an Abrasion Resistant plate - typicaly we use AR, QT100, or QT360 for similar applications. Depending on where you are located your local steel supplier should be able to fix you up. You can get the parts waterjet, plasma, or laser cut to size, so there is no secondary machining - other than forming and/or sharpening. The above steels are tough, but machiniable with carbide tooling (and high speed steel - causiously).

                Patrick
                +1. Forget all this crap about springs and grader blades- these people have never done this. Those would have to be annealed to bend them . The springs are not abrasion resistant and the T1 leading edges for the moldboards are at least 1/2 inch thick.

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                • #9
                  i,ll still stick with the leaf springs.

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                  • #10
                    Would hard facing work for the blades: http://www.amazon.com/1-8-Hard-Facin.../dp/B000RGN1TY

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by sasquatch
                      i,ll still stick with the leaf springs.
                      Ditto!
                      It goes without saying that all of the materials discussed would have to be annealed and re-hardened after shaping.
                      I've done about a half a dozen sets and all are still in service. It's not an overly complicated process plus the materials are easy to source.
                      I do have one set that is starting to get thin but for the number of years it's been in service it sure doesn't owe me anything.
                      Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
                      Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

                      Location: British Columbia

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                      • #12
                        Thanks for the replies!
                        I agree that Manganese would be an ideal material but by the time I found and purchased the matereial I would have way more into this than old Joe would want to pay!

                        Willy, I did check with that outfit for tiller blades when we started this job. Unfortunatly Maletti used two different style blades on this tiller and the ones we have are no longer made. We were able to find half a set at the local farm supply of the correct style so I am now down to making only a few.

                        Shuswap, I will try to find the steels you suggested in Portland.

                        If all else fails, I will try the old springs and hardfacing if needed.

                        Norm

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                        • #13
                          Yes not a rocket science project. It does not have to be a 'mil-speci-billet' material.

                          Here's a few links just to show you how often the 1045-1080 series of steels are used in this type of abrasive application.

                          http://www.monroetufline.com/product...aderblades.htm

                          http://www.galaxyagrico.com/cultivator1.html

                          http://qualityfarmsupply.com/t/categ...amp-attachment

                          http://qualityfarmsupply.com/t/categ...ts/plow-shares

                          There may be a more perfect choice of material....but hey you aren't in the business of setting the world on fire with a new line of Ultimate tiller blades....keep it simple.
                          Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
                          Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

                          Location: British Columbia

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                          • #14
                            AR400 can be drilled, bent, (though it looks like you have some acute bends which might require some heat, not red hot) and welded. Your supplier can probably point you toward some customers with experience if you have questions and they might make them cheaper than your time is worth. Why fool around with junk?

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                            • #15
                              Would modifying the mount on the tiller itself to take a readily available blade (something close to what's presently on it that would work with the news ones you found) be out of the question?
                              Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

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