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  • Question re stripping paint with pressure washer

    This can only be perceived as "on topic" in the very remotest sense----I bought a new 1900 psi pressure washer today. I want to strip the latex based "solid stain" off my wooden deck. It blows it off fine in some areas, not at all in others. Is there a commercial solvent available that will loosen this paint up so it can be pressure washed completely away? I've not done this before.----Brian
    Brian Rupnow

  • #2
    You'll only rip the wood to bits ..and make it sort of stringy on the surface

    there are sand blasting accessories for a pressure washers....siphon tube, you could make one ...you may be able to use less pressure with one of these ..dont know how they perform on wood

    best way to get it done is with a scrapper blade........if the decks got castleations on the wood ...then it will be a long job.

    all the best..markj

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    • #3
      Don't worry about it. Just wash the dirt and whatever's loose, and re-stain. We do that every 2 years. And set your washer to be pretty gentle, too, 'cuz it's very easy to damage wood with a pressure spray.

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      • #4
        I did a similar project.

        I used scraping and a paint stripper to get the old paint off.

        Then I sprayed it with 'Wood Renew', it is acid based, to dissolve the top layer of the wood. It gets rid of the 'mill scale' from the planing machine, and the grey wood that has oxidized.

        I then pressure washed and the wood looked brand new. It has a rough surface and the new coating lasted a very long time.

        All new wood should be washed with 'Wood Renew'. The planing process smooths the surface on new wood. You paint gets applied to this glazing layers and the layer comes of very quickly. Typically you have to reapply paint every year or two. When I redid my deck it was still looking good after five years, when we sold the house. It probably was due for repainting at the 6 or 7 yeasr mark.

        YMMV

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        • #5
          Well, I tried out my new pressure washer on the deck. It DID strip off the paint which I knew was loose. It didn't have much effect on the other paint which was tightly bonded to the wood. This morning I bought some of the approved detergent for washing "cars and boats" and tried it out on the underside of the hotrod chassis and the inside of the yellow wheels, which had a lot of accumulated road grime on them. To put it quite frankly, I was "underwhelmed". It comes with an assortment of nozzles. The highest pressure nozzle would probably blow paint off the car. The recomended "medium pressure" nozzle moved the dirt around a little bit, but I ended up having to put on a "wash mitt" and physically rub the surfaces I wanted cleaned to loosen the dirt up, then it would rinse the dirt away. Its a 1900 psi pressure unit, and its working properly, but based on what I'm seeing so far, I should have saved my money. Maybe I was expecting too much. Oh well, another power tool that "kind of works"!!!!---Brian
          Brian Rupnow

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          • #6
            what you need is something called traffic film remover ......the wash and wax stuff ,you have, is just that.

            the stuff underneath the car is an oily substance ..road film tar .oil...all the clutch dust, break dust ..tyre dust off the road cemented to the under-body.

            doing it for the first time soak it in a 25 percent solution of the traffic film remover ......shot with one of these.



            leave it on for about a minuet

            then finish clean with the pressure washer with your wash and wax.

            all the best.markj

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            • #7
              It seems to be a basic human characteristic for people to spend more time and energy seeking the easier way than if they would focus on performing the task the "hard" way it would get done in less time.

              Paint prep is no exception. The simplest non-injurious way I've found to remove paint and coatings is with solvent paint stripper. I prefer Jasco paint stripper but that's only a personal preference based on personal satisfaction. There is no short cut to stripping a deck is a way that doesn't affect the appearence of the deck after re-staining.

              Here is how I approached staining my mother's deck and a couple of others: I closely inspected the deck, for proud fasteners, drove them below flush. Then I worked the deck with a floor sander and hand sanded the inaccessible places. Then I applied a coat of penetrating oil or stain, allowed time for a cure then one or more coats to build. Apply several thin coats rather than one heavy coat. This is not genius on my part. I followed the directions on the pail of Behr Manning stain.

              The very last paint removal method I would use on wood is high pressure water, steam, or sand blast. They all injure the surface of the wood, raise the grain, penetrate the weather-proofing, expose the fasteners, and more in any or all combinations. You will not like the results.
              Last edited by Forrest Addy; 06-07-2012, 06:28 PM.

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              • #8
                Just one word of caution — don't use paint stripper on fibreglass, unless it's specifically approved for that use (most of them are not).
                Ordinary paint stripper eats fibreglass, and more than one boat has been completely ruined thereby.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Don't Matter
                  The very last paint removal method I would use on wood is high pressure water, steam, or sand blast. They all injure the surface of the wood, raise the grain, penetrate the weather-proofing, expose the fasteners, and more in any or all combinations. You will not like the results.
                  Pressure washed the shed prior to repainting. Then scraped the bits that didn't come off.

                  Best paint job EVER..... been many years now and the only bad spots are places that get a lot of splash off teh ground, or drip when the gutters get clogged. Even those are minimal.

                  Use the fan spray.

                  BTW, 1900 PSI is weak..... if you buy a PW, get the highest pressure you can, I think the one we borrowed was 2700PSI or some such crazy number..... I've done concrete with low and high pressure types, and one takes a LOT longer.

                  And, editing..... for wood the lower pressure (most high pressure have a lower setting also) is best....
                  Last edited by J Tiers; 06-07-2012, 10:24 PM.
                  1601

                  Keep eye on ball.
                  Hashim Khan

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                  • #10
                    I had a rental house with badly peeling, blistering paint. My insurance company said paint it or no more coverage.

                    Not wanting to spend a lot on a high quality paint job since the house was ultimately going to be a tear down. But, I still had to make it presentable to the insurance guy.

                    By accident I found a good way to prep the surface. Weed wacker (aka string trimmer). Removes loose paint fast. If you're careful damage to the wood siding is minimal. Plus, you have about 5 foot reach from the ground.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by J Tiers
                      BTW, 1900 PSI is weak..... if you buy a PW, get the highest pressure you can, I think the one we borrowed was 2700PSI or some such crazy number..... I've done concrete with low and high pressure types, and one takes a LOT longer.

                      And, editing..... for wood the lower pressure (most high pressure have a lower setting also) is best....
                      Gotta be careful with too much pressure. Or more importantly the tip being used.

                      I have a 4000psi/4gpm honda driven washer and accidentally gouged my patio cover upright and etched my concrete patio. The wood gouge was operator error. Wasnt paying close enough attention to the direction I was moving the wand towards. The concrete etch was ALSO my fault LOL Go figure. I again had the straight jet nozzle on and tried to clean a spot. Before I knew it the spot was clean. But it ate away a pretty grove everywhere I had shot the concrete. Umm? That was the first day of use, right outta the box. I got a lil excited

                      Now I use a fan head for ALL household cleaning and a jet nozzle for metal only. The fan will shoot an easy 40 feet distance and ten feet wide while pushing you backward. But it will also clean wood without leaving gouges. But it will eat it up if allowed to dwell.

                      I do have two old karchers that are electric. I want to convert them for flood cooling on the cnc mill. I figure a larger orifice on the nozzle will reduce to pressure to usable.. JR
                      My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

                      https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

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                      • #12
                        Soda blasting is used for grafiti and paint removal. There's a version of the media where each grain has a water resistant coating so it can be used with a pressure washer blasting attatchment.
                        Paul Compton
                        www.morini-mania.co.uk
                        http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru

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                        • #13
                          There is also a tip called a "whirly bird tip" it is a 0 degree spray that spins in a cone shaped orbit. Good on concrete, fiberglass, metal, and if very careful, wood. It will remove any paint that is even thinking about coming loose, or if left longer over one area, takes off the solid paint.

                          Rick

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