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OT Help with truck eletrical problem

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  • OT Help with truck eletrical problem

    I have a 2000 Ford F250 V8 Gasser. Last week a really disturbing intermittent electrical problem started. It would just shut down for about a second and then reset. First the engine would die very briefly and then all the dash lights would light up like when you first turn on the ignition. It seems like the entire electrical system is getting shut off for a second and then comes back on. It happens randomly sometimes while driving and a couple of times while parked before starting the engine.

    I hate these intermittent gremlins - they only show up while on the road not when the vehicle is in the shop.

    If anyone has any advice on where to start trouble shooting this I'd appreciate it.

  • #2
    Those intermittent's are the worst, the problem is that on modern vehicles all the various control modules are linked by a serial data line, it sounds like you are losing power momentarily to the main integration module?
    I know on some GM's around that time, there was a problem with Ground connections that caused intermittent faults after a certain age of the vehicle.
    A scan test may show something, if you have, or know someone with a code reader?
    Max.

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    • #3
      Look at wire connectors terminations. Some have a boot that slips on the threaded terminal. Had one like that engine died at some of the worse times, but as soon as you hit a bump/ door slam it was fine, Finally found it and just to cure any others I removed all boot type connections and replaced with lugs.

      Bob

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      • #4
        My guess would be bad ground (loose) somewhere, or an intermittent condition caused by something wearing thru insulation and causing a hot short to ground.

        It would be nice to isolate which systems are having the trouble.. (that way you could isolate which ground to look for...) there are a lot of different grounds for individual systems on Ford vehicles.

        If its absolutely everything at the same time its got to be related to high amperage ground at battery / block / frame. Has this electrical system ever seen water where it shouldn't have (e.g. did you buy it cheap from a used car dealer in New Orleans?)

        It could also be a nearly dead battery tied to a poorly performing alternator...


        --zip.

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        • #5
          If the entire truck is losing power, take a look at the battery end of the battery cables. I had a similar problem once and found that the cable had corroded away INSIDE the lead cable end. Pretty much the only thing holding the cable in place was the insulation.

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          • #6
            check your ignition switch.

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            • #7
              correct me if I am wrong, but I think there is a main breaker under the hood also


              bedwards

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              • #8
                Originally posted by gambler
                check your ignition switch.
                er.. yeah... Funny story.

                I sold a used car to a young lady who lived on base where I worked. I told her the car ran well, etc... She called me up the next day, said the car kept dying on her. I told her the car had been working perfectly for me. I came right over, asked her if I couldn't drive it for one day to determine the problem, if I couldn't find the issue and fix it I would give her her money back. She gave me a single key, I drove the car, took close look everywhere. Car drove great, no issues. Took it back next day. She calls me again, same troubles. I'm thinking 'no way'. Go back to her house, ask her to show me what she is doing, etc... She hands me her keys, sure enough car dies. I look at her keys, monster huge medal medallion on the key ring, very heavy! Bingo. I found a hairline crack in the ignition switch. My keys worked no problem, the weight of her keychain opened up the crack.

                I think it was around $8 at the time for a replacement switch. Yea!

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                • #9
                  Yep, the monster, heavy keyring puts incredible loads on ignition switches. I read about a similar story years ago, but this time, the husband's key ring with all the keys was the problem. His wife's single key worked great, but not with his.

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                  • #10
                    Used to be there was a short wire going from battery negative to the body metal. I've seen several times where that connection goes bad- that's the main return for everything that uses the body for a ground.
                    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by zipzit
                      My guess would be bad ground (loose) somewhere, or an intermittent condition caused by something wearing thru insulation and causing a hot short to ground.

                      It would be nice to isolate which systems are having the trouble.. (that way you could isolate which ground to look for...) there are a lot of different grounds for individual systems on Ford vehicles.

                      If its absolutely everything at the same time its got to be related to high amperage ground at battery / block / frame. Has this electrical system ever seen water where it shouldn't have (e.g. did you buy it cheap from a used car dealer in New Orleans?)

                      It could also be a nearly dead battery tied to a poorly performing alternator...


                      --zip.
                      My vote is also for a bad ground. Had a Ford Aerostar that did the same thing. Found that the ground cable that ran the electronics was loose under the hood.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        20 years ago I would say the dimmer sitch, seemed like everything ran thru it.
                        "Let me recommend the best medicine in the
                        world: a long journey, at a mild season, through a pleasant
                        country, in easy stages."
                        ~ James Madison

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                        • #13
                          If it were mine I would clean all the grounds first, and then go from there.
                          James

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                          • #14
                            dimmer switch

                            Hi all: Maybe you guys remember the 1940's, 50's with Gus the mechanic in Popular Science. He solved this very problem. Wayne.

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                            • #15
                              There are quite a few stalling complaints on that vehicle/engine on a tech site I have access to. Most of them point to either the COP or IAC. It would help if you could check to see if there are any codes set. Most of the chain auto stores here will pull the codes of there are any at no charge, hoping to sell parts. If you are still having problems after following up on the suggestions thus far presented, post any codes you can find and I'll see if there is a TSB or suggested fix or problem to pursue.
                              Scientists have shown that the moon is moving away at a tiny yet measurable distance from the earth every year. If you do the math, you can calculate that 85 million years ago the moon was orbiting the earth at a distance of about 35 feet from the earth's surface. This would explain the death of the dinosaurs. The tallest ones, anyway.

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