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Bad day in the shop

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  • Bad day in the shop

    Oh boy .. It was one of those days today.
    I'm making some 6.090 dia. aluminum rings for a customer, and I realized that I goofed, and ordered 6.00 diameter.
    CRAP!
    No biggie, I gave them to my weldor buddy to Mig a bead around the OD.
    So, I get them back at 1:00, start cutting, and halfway thru the job find out that now the ID is TOO BIG!!!!
    OH HELLS BELLS!!!!
    These parts are due Monday. Nobody locally has 6.5 X 5.5 tubing.
    So, tomorrow I get to buy 6.5" solid , and gang-drill a big slug outta the middle.
    I hate days like this.
    Time to get the Whiskey bottle down.

  • #2
    Some days you're the dog. Some days you're the tree.

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    • #3
      You could get a big hole saw to cut the center out of the pieces after you cut them to length.
      Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.

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      • #4
        Why can't your buddy run a bead on the inside too?
        Would probably be faster and much cheaper than working from solid stock.

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        • #5
          Roll one up out of strip and get your buddy to weld the join.
          Far cheaper.
          .

          Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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          • #6
            I like Johns idea- any size or thickness you want can be made. For short lengths of 'pipe', you can roll the strip material more than 360 degrees, then cut away the ends where the curve would be non-uniform. You then twist the remaining loop into alignment and weld it up.
            I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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            • #7
              I have a really nice face groove (trepanning) carbide insert tool that would make short work of getting the slug out of the middle, and it would leave you with a usable workpiece to other things later.

              If you can make a similar HSS tool, Here's what you:

              Assume for a moment that the finished thickness is 1.000". Chuck the part and face one side clean. Now with the trepanning tool, plunge .490" deep. Flip the part over and finish the thickness, then plunge to .500" deep. Now you've got .010" of aluminum holding the slug in the piece.

              One whack with a 2 pound hammer and it's now out. Finish I.D. and O.D. as required. Store the slugs for later use.

              If the REQUIREMENT of the job is for 7075, 6061 or 2024 aluminum, it's VERY difficult to roll it and weld it unless you have a lot of per-heating and good TIG skills.

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              • #8
                As its going in the lathe, why not trepan the slug out?

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                • #9
                  Tiffie, read the post above yours.............
                  .

                  Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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                  • #10
                    Thanks for the tips guys.
                    Unfortunately I don't have any trepanning tools for my mill or lathe, as I've never needed to use them.
                    Also, I don't have the means to roll a 1/4" thick AL plate.
                    SO... I had to save my arse the old fashioned way.... Sweat it out.
                    6-1/2" dia slugs , 2-1/2" thick at the onset.
                    6.090" OD by 5.970" ID when completed.
                    I got them done at 11:00 last night, so now I can enjoy my weekend.

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                    • #11
                      They look nice. Good job there.

                      I would have thought that chain drilling would have been a bigger hassle, but I see that you used only 16 or so holes of fairly large diameter, so that would not have been too bad after all.

                      Did you hacksaw after drilling, or did you just put it on the mill and spin it around the hole in the middle while milling out the webs?

                      Dan
                      At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and extra parts.

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                      • #12
                        Did you hacksaw after drilling, or did you just put it on the mill and spin it around the hole in the middle while milling out the webs?
                        I drilled the holes 3/4", then used an extra-long 1/2" center-cutting endmill, and plunged straight down to knock out the webs.
                        It went alot faster than I expected.

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