Tailstock barrel repair

[crusty]

I have an old Harrison L5A with a flogged out MT2 taper in the tail stock barrel. A new barrel is unlikely - the lathe is 60 odd years old.
Making a new one is stretching my time & ability.

What do you guys think of boring out the barrel & fitting a ready made sleeve like this one?
http://www.toolsnz.com/store.php/product?id=69

[lowcountrycamo]

I've got a flogged out headstock taper. Pretty good idea I think. 9 bucks ain't much to get that thing unfloged.

[firbikrhd1]

Is there enough room in the barrel to just bore and ream it to MT3? Then you could use MT3 tooling as well as sleeve it down to MT2.
The reaming could probably be done right on the lathe to assure alignment.
Others will likely have more experience that me, those are just my thoughts.

[crusty]

reaming to mt3

Not sure, but probably enough room. However a mt3 reamer is $100.00 (about $80.00 US)

[danlb]

Not sure, but probably enough room. However a mt3 reamer is $100.00 (about $80.00 US)

I was thinking of making a 1 use reamer from an mt2 arbor. My plan was to cut 2 or 3 flutes with a 3/8 ball end mill and gently rotate it to take off the high spots.

Stoning a taper does not seem to be something I could do accurately.

Is that a really bad idea?

Dan

[Forrest Addy]

Before you work the barrel (actually "quill") have you checked the rest of the tailstock? Does it fit tight to the ways (worn tailstocks generally wear more in the front, rock a little, etc) Is the quill is parallel to the spindle axis? Have you shimmed out the wear so the quill axis is at the same height and in alignment with the spindle axis?

Before you invest time and energy in the quill, the taistock issues affecting the alignment of the quill should be arddressed.

Further, that tailstoc sleeve is intended for turrest lathes and screw machines. It's too shor to work as a tailstock quill,

If you are looking for a quick and dirty fix for a really wretched quill taper, run in a #2 Morse taper reamer and face enough off the end to restor the gageline.

Like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HSS-Hand-Reamer-2-Morse-Taper-2MT-/360468586808?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&hash=item53ed9a2138

Aint cheap

[quasi]

I have an L6 Harrison and it has a 3mt tailstock. I think it is the same tailstock as a 5A, just a different base plate. There are Dealers in the UK that sell used Harrison parts.

[crusty]

Forrest,

The only problem with reaming it is the amount of wear, the quill has had something spun up badly in the taper, it is now grooved & rusty. I estimate needing to ream up to 1mm depth to clean it up (measured with pinkymeter). I think this will mean 20mm advance into the quill, meaning I will need to shorten it by that much.

[firbikrhd1]

Probably better to confer with the true experts here, but I believe I am correct in saying that all the "low spots in the taper do not have to be removed. It's really the high spots that harm accuracy and prevent tapered shanks from seating properly. It may be that a 2MT reamer and some judicious filing would take off all the high spots and burrs and leave a surface that works properly.

[cameron]

Why is it that a Morse taper reamer seems to always be put forward as an essential? If the material is soft enough to ream, it's probably soft enough to bore. I've only bored one #3 taper and two #4's, but there doesn't seem to be any particular difficulty in getting accuracy and a good finish. What am I missing?

Dave Cameron

[crusty]

Why is it that a Morse taper reamer seems to always be put forward as an essential? If the material is soft enough to ream, it's probably soft enough to bore. I've only bored one #3 taper and two #4's, but there doesn't seem to be any particular difficulty in getting accuracy and a good finish. What am I missing?

Dave Cameron

Hi Dave,

how do you set the angle on the slide accurately? I'm trying to avoid spending much on tooling at the moment. Each time I make something worth $5.00 I seem to spend $100 on tools!

[Mcgyver]

Why is it that a Morse taper reamer seems to always be put forward as an essential? If the material is soft enough to ream, it's probably soft enough to bore. I've only bored one #3 taper and two #4's, but there doesn't seem to be any particular difficulty in getting accuracy and a good finish. What am I missing?

I like the idea but a 2MT is a little small for that, dia of boring bar vs length etc.

A problem with the turret insert is still having the ejection mechanism work. Those pieces are usually hardened so cutting it off is a pita.

I hear you on the $5 fo $100, but that's the hobby. the alternative is to make the tooling...not out of the question but time consuming. its the old cliché, cheap, quality or quick, pick 2.

lots of ways to set a taper. indicated an existing taper between centres (drill a centre drill hole in a steel blank a drill chuck in the tailstock if the tailstock is too pooched), trial cut then indicate on sine bar etc. easiest would be the sine bar setting gauge present here not to long ago

[cameron]

Hey, I was looking for an answer, not trying to give advice.

You could hold a Morse taper centre between a male centre in the headstock and a female centre in the tailstock, or vice versa, mount a dial indicator on the top slide , indicating on the back or front side of the taper as required, and set the angle to give zero change in the reading as you advance the top slide.

Or mount a true bar between centres, dial indicator as previous. Set the angle so that as you advance the top slide by a distance x, the indicator reading changes by x times the sine of the half angle of taper.

Or, better, wait until somebody else tells us of an easier, more accurate, and all-around better way of doing it.

Dave Cameron

[tdmidget]

Hey, I was looking for an answer, not trying to give advice.

You could hold a Morse taper centre between a male centre in the headstock and a female centre in the tailstock, or vice versa, mount a dial indicator on the top slide , indicating on the back or front side of the taper as required, and set the angle to give zero change in the reading as you advance the top slide.

Or mount a true bar between centres, dial indicator as previous. Set the angle so that as you advance the top slide by a distance x, the indicator reading changes by x times the sine of the half angle of taper.

Or, better, wait until somebody else tells us of an easier, more accurate, and all-around better way of doing it.

Dave Cameron

A male center and a female center? What kind of pervert are you?
What are "male" and "female" centers?
Oops I didn't see that they are "centres", which I guess is a whole new perversion?
In the western world all centers are "male" and all workpieces are "female" which I guess means they are gay, not that there is anything wrong with that.

[EVguru]

My 1963 L5 has an MT3 tailstock. I yours a very early version?