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My 1954 L5 is MT2 ....so they must have upped it sometime inbetween.
Rob
Rob
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ok, i just did this for my Sheldon( make a tailstock quill). learned a lot in the process.
i used the compound to cut the taper( i`ll still need to use a reamer since i only have a little over 2" compound travel) and i don`t want to "short" the taper.
to set the angle i just indicated an existing taper until i got NO movement on a .0005 reading TI
i modified a CCMT boring bar to get in there. worked out pretty good.
But... blue up a taper and stick it in and it`s easy to see why most recommend finishing using the reamer.
a 3/8" boring bar sticking out over 2", feeding by hand in a bore of diminishing size = very hard to get good contact. at least for me.
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I have had great difficulty in getting tapers dead on. Its take such a small error to make the center not seat well. I have a headstock taper that will not center and I am timid of boring it. I think I'll wait for a mt3 reamer.Comment
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Wouldn't the taper reamer follow the existing bore, clean it up, but not centre (center for TD) it ?Originally posted by lowcountrycamo
Dave CameronComment
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OK new tailstock quill. The read f the tailstock is still what" Worn out, worn but OK?
Still is would make sense to at least do some inspection. Maybe fix a few things.
Most tailstock wear where it slide of the ways so the quill slopes down and the whole thing drops. The taper is supposed to align with the quill axis and the quill bore firs the quill with about 0.0003 clearance in a lathe that size. The quill axis is suppose to by 0.0000 to 0.0005" above the spindle with the quill axis rising towards the headstock 0.0000 to 0.0005 per ft.
That is in a perfect world. If seen a few whose bases rock on the bedway;ls like a rocking chair on a pine floor.Comment
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