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Do they make a nut for this

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  • Do they make a nut for this

    The half nut on my Wells bandsaw is shot .. this is the nut the vise uses.
    Instead of pushing the vise .. it rises up in the air.

    I really don't want to pay 80 bucks for a new one .. so .. I was thinking
    of just replacing it with an actual nut. This would eliminate the quick
    adjust feature .. but .. I work on a small range of stock anyways.

    http://www.mikeamick.com/misc/half_nut.jpg

    The threads on this this are like 5 tpi .. and I don't know if they
    actually make a nut like that.

    Mike
    John Titor, when are you.

  • #2
    You could quite easily make an Acetal (plastic) nut by melting the acetal to match your threads.

    Search for a thread by Evan on the topic.

    Making a half-nut of it is very easy. Ensure it has enough strength by engaging a lot of threads (ie making it longer than the original).

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    • #3
      Mine was acting up also. When I took it apart, I found that it was jam-packed with crud & swarf.
      After a good cleaning, it works 75% better.

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      • #4
        I had the same experience as johnnyd -- took the screw/nut apart and gave a good cleaning and it worked perfectly normal.
        If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something........

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        • #5
          Yes, clean it out and adjust it up to specs again. Mine was both packed with junk and loose. And even though it looks like it will work reversed the nut can only go in one way.
          Andy

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          • #6
            Originally posted by mikeamick
            I really don't want to pay 80 bucks for a new one .. so .. I was thinking
            of just replacing it with an actual nut. This would eliminate the quick
            adjust feature .. but .. I work on a small range of stock anyways.
            If you're able to set up and thread that long internal buttress thread, it would seem trivial to mill off half to replicate the original part. I wouldn't want to be without the quick adjust feature.

            hopefully a good cleaning works!
            in Toronto Ontario - where are you?

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            • #7
              I think I could do without the quick adjust feature if the screw had a stepper motor on it.
              Andy

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              • #8
                Yea .. cleaning it was the first thing I tried.
                http://www.mikeamick.com/misc/clean_nut.jpg

                I thought that maybe the area before the first thread was the
                culprit .. so I machined it flat and pretty. No help.

                With just a little bit of closing force .. the nut just lifts right off of the
                threads. Closely watching the procedure its hard to see how it
                ever worked .. grin .. the threads of the nut and the rod are both
                slanted/rounded. You would think they would use very flat vertical
                threads.

                Right now I am using that silly clamp to hold the vise jaws closed .. so
                anything would be better than that.


                I checked out that thread where Evan used Acetal and a vise and some
                heat to make a nut ... I have never worked with any type of
                plastic/composite material .. and it looks like it opens a whole new world
                for the tinkerer.

                Mike A Mick
                John Titor, when are you.

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                • #9
                  Silly idea time, but what if you simply sharpened a few of the threads way out at the end where they're never touched, and used them to recut the threads in the nut?

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                  • #10
                    Eventually, $80 won't seem so bad to maintain the functionality and value of the saw. You've heard the expression "go ugly early"? Don't waste a bunch of time and energy trying to cobble up something. Just order it and move on.

                    Any idea how a worn screw will function with a new nut? Is there any chance a new nut will still not restore the proper function with worn screw threads?

                    You might also consider buying a used quick-acting vise and scrounging parts from it.
                    JHC Dayton, OH

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                    • #11
                      2 jobs ago we had a Wells saw with the same problem. A talented machinist in the shop made a new part. A little work, but doable. Figure out if your time is more valuable... to make or to buy.
                      gvasale

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                      • #12
                        If I remember right from when I had mine apart there is a mechanism that has to turn with the screw about 1/4 turn. This part that turns locks the screw down into the threads. If it doesn't work right the screw will pop out every time. Also I had a problem of my screw popping out and it turned out to be the bolts to the jaw were too loose allowing the nut to twist and pop out.

                        Maybe the ball spring is weak in yours?


                        Edit* Never mind, I see in the pic yours is totally different than mine.
                        Last edited by vpt; 06-28-2012, 05:46 PM.
                        Andy

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                        • #13
                          I called the company and he wanted to know if this was a Wells or a
                          W.F. Wells ... I didn't know there was a difference ... it is the
                          W.F. Wells saw ... if that makes a difference.

                          I went out and looked at it again ...

                          As the left pic shows .. the edge of the nut was not at the same angle as
                          the threads ... so I cut it to reflect that .. second pic

                          it helped just a tiny bit .. but . still no go ..



                          There going to call me in the morning with price and availability.

                          Mike A Mick
                          John Titor, when are you.

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                          • #14
                            I would cast a new nut out of zinc using the shaft as the ID form. Similar to Evans method. After it cools, band saw it to make two halves. Zinc will shrink and you can just unscrew it from the shaft. After it's cut, it should provide a good fit and zinc is slick and hard. I use a high-temp release agent but you could use talcum powder to keep it from "galvanizing" the shaft. With a cool shaft and shrinkage, it probably wouldn't stick anyway.

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                            • #15
                              check here
                              http://www.mcmaster.com/#general-pur...e-rods/=i6lno3
                              Craftsman 101.07403
                              Grizzly G0704
                              4x6 Bandsaw

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