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Dealing with long stringy cuttings.

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  • Dealing with long stringy cuttings.

    I have quite a bit of this sort of boring to do. Not sure how long to let this go on or how to best deal with the stringy swarf.

    Your help and suggestions are solicited.
    Byron Boucher
    Burnet, TX

  • #2
    Reduce your cutting speed, increase the depth of cut and the feed rate.

    If you are using a carbide insert change to one with a chip breaker. If it is HSS grind a chip breaker on the top of the tool.

    If possible drill it out closer to the finished diameter.

    BTW, what sort of tolerance and surface finish do you need?


    • #3
      I was sort of caught betwixt and between. My larger drills are shorter than needed and my larger insert boring bars are still to large. This is one of the Mesa Tool 3/4" bars that uses the flat triangular inserts. The finished size is 1 5/16 the tolerance and finish are not critical. The length is 3 1/4". This is the first time that I have used this bar. It cuts nicely but I don’t want to get tied up in or hit up side that head with the stringy chips.
      Byron Boucher
      Burnet, TX


      • #4
        Originally posted by Boucher View Post
        It cuts nicely but I don’t want to get tied up in or hit up side that head with the stringy chips.
        That's certainly a legit concern. Adjust your speed, feed, and DOC as needed to make the chips curl tighter.


        • #5
          Dr Stan has "got" it, with my limited experience I've found DOC quite sensitive.

          Two other thoughts, sort of a "pecking" action, the stop/start will often break the chip/curl but often leads a less desirable finish and, not knowing the stock situation, judging from the photo, if that is a 3/4" bar, you need to get 9/16" more, would it be possible to get/use different size stock?
          That may not be a viable option but hey, who knows? I've been messing around with tubing and various bore combinations for weeks (telescoping/sliding/nesting) and in the long run it would have been way more expedient to just buy a closer size tube in the first place (or for that matter extra dollars for DOM just to not have the weld on the interior)

          As I continue to learn, I am having more and more various sizes of stock on hand, yes it can obviously be expensive to keep something of everything, but I am realizing not only can it be wasteful in terms of material it all takes more time too. I am doing this mostly for myself so the latter is not important and neither is the first really, I need all the practice I can get, still...

          My most recent work, the chips were about that length and not ever much longer but finer (not as wide a swarf) and way, way tighter curl...more like the stuff in the lower part of the pic near the ways
          Last edited by RussZHC; 08-29-2012, 09:22 PM.


          • #6
            If I get wire like chips like it appears you're getting I go after it a little different. But... if you have a fairly light or low horse powered lathe this may not be of any help to you.

            Anyway, I use a carbide insert that has a very negative rake and use flood coolant to keep everything cool. Usually, this achieves a nice manageable chip throughout the entire operation that it isn't so speed, feed, or DOC sensitive.

            Is the material you're using cold rolled steel? If so, that stuff is notorious for long wire like chips.
            Last edited by Mike Burdick; 08-29-2012, 09:54 PM.


            • #7
              Bump and follow up...same material as previous post (# 5) increased my DOC by about 20% and doubled just piles of small, sort of curled "C" shapes, way more like roughing should be...