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Have a chance to buy niagra foot shear for cheap but broken "head?"

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  • Have a chance to buy niagra foot shear for cheap but broken "head?"

    I have a chance (option) to buy a 30-40" niagra foot shear for $60 but the main "head" (part the blade is bolted to) is broke in half at the middle from falling over. The blade is also bent some.

    Is it worth it? Chances of a weld holding up on the cast head? Even with extra reinforcement? Can a tool steal blade be bent back and cleaned up somehow? I see some blades for other models can be between $100-300.

    Its local, I've been looking for a shear, and its the right size and all.

    if I don't take it this weekend its going to scrap monday.
    Andy

  • #2
    Similar to this one I believe, it was dark when I was looking at it.

    Andy

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    • #3
      Originally posted by vpt View Post
      Is it worth it? Chances of a weld holding up on the cast head? Even with extra reinforcement? Can a tool steal blade be bent back and cleaned up somehow? I see some blades for other models can be between $100-300.
      Well kinda hard to say. How good a welder are you or do you plan to have it done professionally?

      The important "thing" will be how straight is the blade mounting surface after the repair. My guess is that it will need to be re-machined to achieve the necessary flatness/straightness. You can then shim the blade to get the correct clearance for the blade.

      As to straightening the blade so it can be reused, that's just not going to happen.

      So, you need to decide if this is worth the time & work to get it functioning again. If it were me, I'd pass on it.

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      • #4
        Looks to me to be $60 worth of trouble! I would pass as well. Bob.

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        • #5
          I'll give you a third pass here.
          Getting the bed straight would be expensive and iffy and the blade will have to be replaced.
          Guaranteed not to rust, bust, collect dust, bend, chip, crack or peel

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          • #6
            For $60 I'd give it a shot. It may not look new when done but I bet you can make it cut straight. As for the blade find a guy that hammers sawmill blade. I had one that got hot & ran way out of round. $25 later ran like new. Just my opinion. Of coure I'd offer him scrap price & mention he won't have to load drive & hassle with first. LOL!
            Last edited by flylo; 09-14-2012, 10:56 PM.

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            • #7
              Just trouble. Stay away!

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              • #8
                I'd say pass.

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                • #9
                  Some things are going so cheap you can't afford them..............
                  1601

                  Keep eye on ball.
                  Hashim Khan

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for all the reply's already! If I got it and put a little work into and came to the conclusion it won't work or will take to much to make it cut right I could use the nice flat cast bed for something.

                    Its hard to see something like this just get thrown out.
                    Andy

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                    • #11
                      It's worse when it's pefectly good equipment. I'd love to own a scrapyard & pay more for machines, tractors,equipment,etc. I'd let it be known I payed more then I'd set it aside & let the home shop,hobby farmers, every day guys get a chance at it every friday & sat. I could help those guys, double my normal profit, get all those guys scrap & keep it from china. Just look at the tooling that gets tossed. Of course I'd want to take home the really prime stuff. LOL!

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                      • #12
                        You'd probably do better to weld up a new "head" from plate, but you'd still have to have the mounting surface for the blade machined and deal with getting a new blade.

                        Of course, if you only want to use it for short cuts, you could cut the bent section out of the blade, and have a spare.
                        Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.

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                        • #13
                          Disappointed in myself as first inclination was to not bother...still wouldn't if cash was really tight BUT given your statement
                          If I got it and put a little work into and came to the conclusion it won't work or will take to much to make it cut right I could use the nice flat cast bed for something.
                          I started looking more closely...you got two larger return springs (possible use for small press), got two stops w rods of correct size, 2 turnbuckles of better than currently available quality, 2 legs that often get repurposed as table legs, a blade that could be cut and used for a shorter lever type shear, plus the table itself (a bit narrow perhaps but w my space I could make use of it for welding and most have "T" slots in the top), and the remainder is still probably close to 150lbs of scrap and you are likely to go there at some point relatively soon anyway.
                          Last edited by RussZHC; 09-15-2012, 11:10 AM.

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                          • #14
                            Russ thinks like me. lol

                            I am always looking out for a good welding surface and I believe the bed of the shear (has two T slots already) would be good for it. The casting is thick enough that I could even drill and tap some holes in it for holding work down.

                            I'll have to run over in the light and take a better look at it.

                            I imagine not much if any but at what point does a "not strait" blade start to give trouble on a shear? Just to have an idea what kind of tolerances I would have to be looking at if I tried for a repair.
                            Andy

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                            • #15
                              After adjustment/shims your blade needs to be within a few thou at most... or it will bind/gall on thin material. Most I've seen have torsion bar on the back to pull the cast iron top blade support into alignment, and use shims behiend the blade if you need to go the other way after clamping down the blade bolts. I dont see any such bar on yours.

                              The blade will be a good chunk of hardened tool steel though if you have a decent cutter/grinder!

                              Yes, the bed with legs would be most useful as a big cast base. Use a Mag drill to make an array of tapped holes for securing (2 slots isn't really enough).
                              Last edited by lakeside53; 09-15-2012, 09:15 PM.

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