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  • #46
    Originally posted by lazlo View Post
    Cause Byron is in the 'States, so Metric 1-2-3 blocks are useless to him
    BUT !! checked my 1-2-3 blocks because I will have to open the holes out and the holes are on 15mm centres.

    I must admit I use the larger 20-4-80-ARC blocks in preference to the genuine 1-2-3 blocks not because of imperial v metric but most of my vises have 2" / 50mm deep jaws and if I use the 1-2-3 blocks the 2" high layout takes up all the room in the jaws.
    1" high is Ok but it's then 2" wide.

    Using the 20-4- 80 bocks means I can have 10mm left on top of a block to grip parts.
    One reason why they were made this size is for smaller shop work the 1-2-3's are just a tad too big.

    Any way off to the pub,pie and pint night, post later but got the blocks back and complete success as regards softening and even got a bonus.

    Later..........
    .

    Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



    Comment


    • #47
      Originally posted by John Stevenson View Post

      I must admit I use the larger 20-4-80-ARC blocks in preference to the genuine 1-2-3 blocks not because of imperial v metric

      Any way off to the pub,pie and pint night.
      Ah, the irony!
      "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

      Comment


      • #48
        Originally posted by lazlo View Post
        Ah, the irony!
        I think that you mean restraint ,,, an imperial pint being less than a litre.

        Comment


        • #49
          What a lot of Piffle.

          I really dont see why, if its a big deal, people dont just drill out the holes to a clearance size.


          Wait!
          They're Hardened comes the chorus!

          Well...

          The 'Subject':


          Bog standard 123 block from one of the uk suppliers (cant actually remember which). Proper generic chinese, with wrong sized threads and everything.

          10mm SDS masonry bit. Used because my workshop is a tip and I cant find the 'normal' masonry bits in 10mm which are somewhere in a box.


          The setup. 1800 rpm (thats what the mill was already set to, very lazy tonight...), er16 collet chuck. 123 block clamped with a little help from its pair.

          If you look closely the swarf from drilling is visible about halfway up the drill

          Tada! What do you know, a 10mm clearance hole has appeared:


          sheesh, it took longer to write than to do.

          Dave

          Yes the mill is a mess, Im in the middle of an actual project!
          Just south of Sudspumpwater UK

          Comment


          • #50
            My 1-2-3 and up were bought from LittleMachineShop.com (they are a lot more expensive when shipped here to Australia).

            http://littlemachineshop.com/product...1233&category=

            where the accuaracy is +/- 0.0002" (2 tenths) - cost US$13 a pair (boxed)

            http://littlemachineshop.com/product...2881&category=

            where the accuracy is +/- 0.0001" (1 tenth) - cost US$30 a pair (boxed)

            At that sort of accuracy its fine as I've never needed them more precise

            If these were damaged is it worth repairing them when the cost is so low?. It puts them in the "repair by replacement" (ie "throw-away") category.

            Other than Starrett has plain 3/8" clearance holes, how could a HSM-er justify buying (new) Starrett 1-2-3 blocks?

            Comment


            • #51
              Man, the "Ultra Precision" ones even come with the screw to bolt them together
              Just south of Sudspumpwater UK

              Comment


              • #52
                Dave,

                you've certainly solved the ".... but I want all/more clearance holes" bleat/gripe in very short order.

                Nicely done.
                Last edited by oldtiffie; 10-23-2012, 05:14 PM.

                Comment


                • #53
                  Originally posted by bob_s View Post
                  I think that you mean restraint ,,, an imperial pint being less than a litre.
                  Ah! One upside to Metrification!
                  "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Originally posted by small.planes View Post
                    Man, the "Ultra Precision" ones even come with the screw to bolt them together
                    I know, right? They come with short cap screws. WTF are they for?
                    "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      The downside I discovered in Germany is you tend to drink to much weiss beer, as 1 'pint' is actually nearly 2.
                      This would not be a downside if you didnt have to get up stupid early to go stand on an exhibition stand all day...
                      Just south of Sudspumpwater UK

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        Well I know its not Starrett but you can always go with Brown & Sharpe http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

                        $68 and yes they even come with the little bolts to bolt them together.
                        Mike Hunter

                        www.mikehunterrestorations.com

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...MITEM=601-1088

                          And all of them have some non-tapped (presumably non-clearance) holes.

                          There are some very "big (USA) names" there and all way-way cheaper than Starrett (who preumably make their own "blocks" "in house (USA".

                          Why (how?) would/could that be?

                          They seem to have the same tolerances as the LittleMachineShop similar items (US$13 and $30) which are about half the price?

                          Are they made in the USA or "China"?

                          If they are all made in China and all similar, does it really matter in this day and age?

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            OK pie and pint went down well, even had some guest ciders on tap [ hick ]
                            Anyway I tried my set with a carbide end mill and just shagged the end mill up hence the annealing.

                            Should have gone in the stress relieving oven at 680 degrees C all night but for some reason the oven hit a snag and didn't go above 480 degrees C [all computerised ]

                            Any way it was soft enough to drill with a colbalt drill and then tried a normal HSS dill and no problem.

                            Plus side is that the scale produce at this low temperature can be removed with a rotary scotch brite wheel so no need to regrind.

                            Tried tapping one hole and it tapped fine, 3/8" BSW roughly the same as UNC but hardly any depth of thread.

                            Mine are the same as dave's, only 5 holes tapped and none on the lower array.

                            Fück it I'm pissed - goodnight..............
                            .

                            Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



                            Comment


                            • #59
                              Some Clarification

                              Black Forest said,

                              "Why not just buy the metric blocks from Acu trade and have nice blocks. A bunch of you could buy a bunch and save on shipping. It must be cheaper than trying to make a silk purse out of your sows ear 123 blocks."

                              Because sometimes a Sows ear is exactly what you need.

                              The realization that the screwed together 123 blocks would be the perfect solution to a milling setup came on a late Sunday evening shop session.

                              Having just the right tool is always best but sometime one just has to make do. I completed the project but the nagging Idea that “It would have been nice” remained. Hence the Question posted. The same evening an order was placed with Arc Euro Trade for four pair of the 10-20-40 and two pair of the 20-40-80 blocks. Shipping appears to be $55

                              Harvey, summarized the situation previously when he said “While I agree with the Starrett statement, I see no reason to not bolt your blocks together if you can.

                              Actually I rarely bolt mine together anymore. But this is because I now have a couple of Suburban angles along with several other in various sizes. Before I had alternatives, I bolted my blocks together quite often.”

                              John, Thank you for your assistance, Sleep Well!
                              Last edited by Boucher; 10-23-2012, 07:29 PM. Reason: To Add Shipping cost
                              Byron Boucher
                              Burnet, TX

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                Originally posted by small.planes View Post
                                What a lot of Piffle.

                                I really dont see why, if its a big deal, people dont just drill out the holes to a clearance size.


                                Wait!
                                They're Hardened comes the chorus!

                                Well...

                                The 'Subject':

                                http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...-25-57_563.jpg

                                Bog standard 123 block from one of the uk suppliers (cant actually remember which). Proper generic chinese, with wrong sized threads and everything.

                                10mm SDS masonry bit. Used because my workshop is a tip and I cant find the 'normal' masonry bits in 10mm which are somewhere in a box.

                                http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...-26-56_802.jpg

                                The setup. 1800 rpm (thats what the mill was already set to, very lazy tonight...), er16 collet chuck. 123 block clamped with a little help from its pair.

                                http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...-25-30_687.jpg
                                If you look closely the swarf from drilling is visible about halfway up the drill

                                Tada! What do you know, a 10mm clearance hole has appeared:
                                http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...-25-52_209.jpg

                                sheesh, it took longer to write than to do.

                                Dave

                                Yes the mill is a mess, Im in the middle of an actual project!
                                Dave.

                                Did you get a sense that the blocks were case-hardened or hardened "right through"?

                                If they were case hardened and penetrated by an SDS masonry drill as you've done, do you think that the "under-sized" non-tapped holes could be similarly drilled out to tapping size and tapped with a common set of HSS taps?

                                All just for the cost of an SDS drill and a bit of mill time.

                                If so, other than hole positioning, it should quiet the gripes/moans and give anyone who wants to try it the maximun options - with no heat-treatment and post treatment suface grinding.

                                Nicely thought out and done.

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