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bearings back to back - how do you get them out?

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  • bearings back to back - how do you get them out?

    this is for my Wellsaw in the bandsaw wheel. the bearing are back to back and I don't know how to remove them.

    did a small test with my press but it didn't budge.

    any ideas?



    Rob

  • #2
    How hard did you press on them. It looks like they should just press out. They could have been set with some retaining compound, which I found can take quite a bit of force to break loose.

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    • #3
      I will assume you will be replacing them, so if these get damaged it's no loss. Also assuming there's no lip between them that would prevent them from being pushed out, you should be able to press them out. You would want to press on the outer races of course, as is usual.

      If there's a lip on one side and you can't press on the outer race, then you will have to get creative. I would try heating the thing to about 300 F, maybe more, then use the press. Otherwise you might remove the seal, then pry out the ball cage and remove the balls, then weld in a washer such that when the welds cool, the outer race is shrunken inwards. I haven't tried this, but some here have suggested that it works.
      I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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      • #4
        Easy stuff - use a blind hole bearing puller. Harbor Freight sell one cheap. Basically an expanding mandrel (with bottom "lip") with an attached slide hammer. Take them out one at a time.

        However... if they are "through" and you can get a press on them, just press harder!
        Last edited by lakeside53; 10-27-2012, 07:19 PM.

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        • #5
          Press on the outer race - but support the wheel (with a holejust larger than the outer race).

          Press from the spigot side.

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          • #6
            Is there a slight gap between the bearings ? If so there may be a circlip in between the bearings.

            If there is a circlip this is one reason it won't press thru.
            .

            Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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            • #7
              There is a bearing puller made for removing clutch throw out bearings from the flywheel that might work in this case. For degrading lock tight without damaging other things nearby use an electric clothes iron set to Linen. Set it on the wheel and give it a while to reach temperature and stabilize. I have put a little tension on the puller and set the iron on and while doing something else heard the snap as the bearing moved.
              Byron Boucher
              Burnet, TX

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              • #8
                Originally posted by lakeside53 View Post
                Easy stuff - use a blind hole bearing puller. Harbor Freight sell one cheap. Basically an expanding mandrel (with bottom "lip") with an attached slide hammer. Take them out one at a time.

                However... if they are "through" and you can get a press on them, just press harder!
                I would like the PN# for that puller........... Could have used one of that style many times, didn't know the existed so I also had to get creative.

                As for the bearing, a little heat with a propane torch around the housing should do it. Just make sure you properly block the hub, you don't want to bend or crack the casting.

                JL...................

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by lakeside53 View Post
                  Easy stuff - use a blind hole bearing puller. Harbor Freight sell one cheap. Basically an expanding mandrel (with bottom "lip") with an attached slide hammer. Take them out one at a time.

                  However... if they are "through" and you can get a press on them, just press harder!
                  Funny this comes up. I just used this puller today.....
                  Can you see if the bearings are touching or slightly spaced?


                  http://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-p...ller-4876.html

                  Looking at your picture there is no way this puller will be able to engage one bearing. They need to be at least 3/8" apart to grab one of them. If you think they're going to have to be pulled out rather than pushed through I suspect you will need to get a 3 inch stout piece of metal with both ends sides threaded. Run bolts parallel and straddeling bore and weld the center of the bore to the bearing. Kind of an off side puller. Will destroy the bearing, but get it out.
                  Last edited by 914Wilhelm; 10-27-2012, 09:01 PM. Reason: indescision

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                  • #10
                    The higher quality puller from the bearing supply house cost significantly more and perform better than the HF clones. Cooling things rapidly can be done with a liquid line on a butane tank. I have one on a 250gal tank that was used to refuel a tractor. You could probably do the same thing with a 20# bottle turned upside down but the new safety valves may not allow that. If the bearings are not to be reused an abrasive wheel in a Dremel tool can be used to cut a gripping point for the puller.
                    Last edited by Boucher; 10-27-2012, 10:02 PM.
                    Byron Boucher
                    Burnet, TX

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                    • #11
                      There looks like enough radius on the inner races to get a chisel on the edge and give couple of raps to see if anything moves outward. Safety Nazi's can turn red and yell about now.
                      mark costello-Low speed steel

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                      • #12
                        MIG weld a spigot that is just under the outside diameter of the bearing to the outer race - three short fillet welds should suffice.

                        Weld a say 1/2 bolt to the outer end of the spigot - complete a conventional "puller" from there - and "pull"

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                        • #13
                          A few short weld beads on the outer race works well, and as has been mentioned shrinks the race enough after cooling that as often as not the bearing usually falls out on it's own. It will work when nothing else works.

                          But my first choice is usually a blind bearing puller like lakeside53 mentioned.
                          A set for common various size bearings is a handy item in the shop.

                          Here's a couple of pics so you can better understand the concept of how these pullers function.





                          Last edited by Willy; 10-28-2012, 09:26 AM. Reason: spelling
                          Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
                          Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

                          Location: British Columbia

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                          • #14
                            It's easy!
                            Have a rummage in your toolbox or go to your local hardware shop and buy one of these to fit the bearing ID.



                            Then insert it as deep as *one* of the bearings only, tighten it up so it grips, then use a drift on the bolt from the opposite side to knock it out.

                            Simples!

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                            • #15
                              Might be a good idea to look at the blow-up drawing for the particular model to see how the bearings relate to the part. Go on-line for the info if you don't have the manual.
                              Krutch


                              Mentally confused and prone to wandering!

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