Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

wohlhaupter up4 boring and facing head

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    had a rumage around today and found just what i needed lying in the bottom of a box of bits i got with my lathe, an adaptor to convert my boring head from morse 4 taper to int40, but the morse taper protruded through the adaptor to far.
    so after much debate i decided to alter the original arbour to fit.
    so chucked it up in the lathe and turned it down at the end to suit, the original arbour was seriously hard!! really should be ground i suppose??



    had to taper just the end off it to suit the int 40 taper.







    cleaned up my rough lathe work! with some emery cloth in the lathe and it seems to fit in the mill fine.
    ill just need to make a new drawbar to suit it as it has 14mm threads instead of the 5/8" which the drawbar on the parkson mill is.
    cheers
    Tom...
    Last edited by scotplant; 11-03-2012, 07:57 PM.

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by scotplant View Post
      ill just need to make a new drawbar to suit it as it has 14mm threads instead of the 5/8" which the drawbar on the parkson mill is.
      cheers
      Tom...
      I've had success with a couple of jobs similar to that, by locally annealing the end of the shank, and drilling out & re-tapping. Saves messing around with swapping drawbars.


      Tim

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Timleech View Post
        I've had success with a couple of jobs similar to that, by locally annealing the end of the shank, and drilling out & re-tapping. Saves messing around with swapping drawbars
        Tim
        how do you anneal things like this Tim?? as this was seriously hard stuff i had to take small cuts or it started jumping about in the lathe!!
        then i must have got through the case hardening and things got a bit easier.
        i would be to scared to ruin the arbour heating it so how did you do it??
        Tom..
        Last edited by scotplant; 11-03-2012, 07:58 PM.

        Comment


        • #19
          Try some ceramic inserts. Just pay attention to the recommended feeds and speeds and it will produce a beautiful finish on hard materials.
          Byron Boucher
          Burnet, TX

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by scotplant View Post
            how do you anneal things like this Tim?? as this was seriously hard stuff i had to take small cuts or it started jumping about in the lathe!!
            then i must have got through the case hardening and things got a bit easier.
            i would be to scared to ruin the arbour heating it so how did you do it??
            Tom..
            I had a couple of 30 INT items with small drawbar threads which needed tapping out to M12.
            The threaded spigot needs to be heated to a dull red and then allowed to cool gently. So far as I remember (it was a while ago now) I heated the end as locally as I could (might have been with an oxy torch, can't remember for sure) and then put the business end to cool in some liquid, probably lubricating oil, before it got discoloured from the heat although from what I remember it might have been ok without extra cooling, there was enough mass in the body of the thing to dissipate the heat but best to be prepared. Obviously you have to make sure you're not cooling the spigot end too quickly & rehardening it. Also if you make the heating too quick & too localised then the conduction away to the body of the tool might cool it quickly enough to stop it from annealing properly, so a bit of guesswork and seat of the pants judgment needed. You could probably sit the actual head in an oil bath while you heat the spigot, but then you'd have to consider the fire risk.

            They were still tough to drill & tap after this, but it was feasible.

            Tim

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by Boucher View Post
              Try some ceramic inserts. Just pay attention to the recommended feeds and speeds and it will produce a beautiful finish on hard materials.
              it was insert type cutter i was using, dont know what type though but it wanted to bounce about a bit in the lathe.
              my live centre is not very big, and i was cutting right next to it so workpiece had a bit of movement when taking heavy cuts.
              then it started to dig in when through the hard facing, so it is actually turned down a bit smaller in dia. than what i was wanting!!
              but i am still a learner at this machining stuff
              cheers
              Tom..
              Last edited by scotplant; 11-04-2012, 05:08 AM.

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Timleech View Post
                I had a couple of 30 INT items with small drawbar threads which needed tapping out to M12.
                The threaded spigot needs to be heated to a dull red and then allowed to cool gently. So far as I remember (it was a while ago now) I heated the end as locally as I could (might have been with an oxy torch, can't remember for sure) and then put the business end to cool in some liquid, probably lubricating oil, before it got discoloured from the heat although from what I remember it might have been ok without extra cooling, there was enough mass in the body of the thing to dissipate the heat but best to be prepared. Obviously you have to make sure you're not cooling the spigot end too quickly & rehardening it. Also if you make the heating too quick & too localised then the conduction away to the body of the tool might cool it quickly enough to stop it from annealing properly, so a bit of guesswork and seat of the pants judgment needed. You could probably sit the actual head in an oil bath while you heat the spigot, but then you'd have to consider the fire risk.

                They were still tough to drill & tap after this, but it was feasible.

                Tim
                thanks Tim i might take the plunge later in the week and have a bash at this as it would be so much handier if the drawbar was the same size as my mill.
                oxy torch here i come

                Tom..

                Comment

                Working...
                X