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wohlhaupter up4 boring and facing head

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  • scotplant
    replied
    Originally posted by Timleech View Post
    I had a couple of 30 INT items with small drawbar threads which needed tapping out to M12.
    The threaded spigot needs to be heated to a dull red and then allowed to cool gently. So far as I remember (it was a while ago now) I heated the end as locally as I could (might have been with an oxy torch, can't remember for sure) and then put the business end to cool in some liquid, probably lubricating oil, before it got discoloured from the heat although from what I remember it might have been ok without extra cooling, there was enough mass in the body of the thing to dissipate the heat but best to be prepared. Obviously you have to make sure you're not cooling the spigot end too quickly & rehardening it. Also if you make the heating too quick & too localised then the conduction away to the body of the tool might cool it quickly enough to stop it from annealing properly, so a bit of guesswork and seat of the pants judgment needed. You could probably sit the actual head in an oil bath while you heat the spigot, but then you'd have to consider the fire risk.

    They were still tough to drill & tap after this, but it was feasible.

    Tim
    thanks Tim i might take the plunge later in the week and have a bash at this as it would be so much handier if the drawbar was the same size as my mill.
    oxy torch here i come

    Tom..

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  • scotplant
    replied
    Originally posted by Boucher View Post
    Try some ceramic inserts. Just pay attention to the recommended feeds and speeds and it will produce a beautiful finish on hard materials.
    it was insert type cutter i was using, dont know what type though but it wanted to bounce about a bit in the lathe.
    my live centre is not very big, and i was cutting right next to it so workpiece had a bit of movement when taking heavy cuts.
    then it started to dig in when through the hard facing, so it is actually turned down a bit smaller in dia. than what i was wanting!!
    but i am still a learner at this machining stuff
    cheers
    Tom..
    Last edited by scotplant; 11-04-2012, 05:08 AM.

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  • Timleech
    replied
    Originally posted by scotplant View Post
    how do you anneal things like this Tim?? as this was seriously hard stuff i had to take small cuts or it started jumping about in the lathe!!
    then i must have got through the case hardening and things got a bit easier.
    i would be to scared to ruin the arbour heating it so how did you do it??
    Tom..
    I had a couple of 30 INT items with small drawbar threads which needed tapping out to M12.
    The threaded spigot needs to be heated to a dull red and then allowed to cool gently. So far as I remember (it was a while ago now) I heated the end as locally as I could (might have been with an oxy torch, can't remember for sure) and then put the business end to cool in some liquid, probably lubricating oil, before it got discoloured from the heat although from what I remember it might have been ok without extra cooling, there was enough mass in the body of the thing to dissipate the heat but best to be prepared. Obviously you have to make sure you're not cooling the spigot end too quickly & rehardening it. Also if you make the heating too quick & too localised then the conduction away to the body of the tool might cool it quickly enough to stop it from annealing properly, so a bit of guesswork and seat of the pants judgment needed. You could probably sit the actual head in an oil bath while you heat the spigot, but then you'd have to consider the fire risk.

    They were still tough to drill & tap after this, but it was feasible.

    Tim

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  • Boucher
    replied
    Try some ceramic inserts. Just pay attention to the recommended feeds and speeds and it will produce a beautiful finish on hard materials.

    Leave a comment:


  • scotplant
    replied
    Originally posted by Timleech View Post
    I've had success with a couple of jobs similar to that, by locally annealing the end of the shank, and drilling out & re-tapping. Saves messing around with swapping drawbars
    Tim
    how do you anneal things like this Tim?? as this was seriously hard stuff i had to take small cuts or it started jumping about in the lathe!!
    then i must have got through the case hardening and things got a bit easier.
    i would be to scared to ruin the arbour heating it so how did you do it??
    Tom..
    Last edited by scotplant; 11-03-2012, 07:58 PM.

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  • Timleech
    replied
    Originally posted by scotplant View Post
    ill just need to make a new drawbar to suit it as it has 14mm threads instead of the 5/8" which the drawbar on the parkson mill is.
    cheers
    Tom...
    I've had success with a couple of jobs similar to that, by locally annealing the end of the shank, and drilling out & re-tapping. Saves messing around with swapping drawbars.


    Tim

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  • scotplant
    replied
    had a rumage around today and found just what i needed lying in the bottom of a box of bits i got with my lathe, an adaptor to convert my boring head from morse 4 taper to int40, but the morse taper protruded through the adaptor to far.
    so after much debate i decided to alter the original arbour to fit.
    so chucked it up in the lathe and turned it down at the end to suit, the original arbour was seriously hard!! really should be ground i suppose??



    had to taper just the end off it to suit the int 40 taper.







    cleaned up my rough lathe work! with some emery cloth in the lathe and it seems to fit in the mill fine.
    ill just need to make a new drawbar to suit it as it has 14mm threads instead of the 5/8" which the drawbar on the parkson mill is.
    cheers
    Tom...
    Last edited by scotplant; 11-03-2012, 07:57 PM.

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  • scotplant
    replied
    here are some more pictures of boring head..

    [IMG][/IMG]





    it doesn't seem to have the feed button mentioned in the other manuals, just a fine adjustment screw in the side.
    figured out that if i push in 4 pins in the top it will feed out, then push in the other 4 pins the first ones pop back out and the feed reverses, so i dont think it has automatic reverse feed!
    anybody got one of these old style??
    Tom.. ps sorry about the size of pictures havent figured that one out yet..

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  • scotplant
    replied
    thanks for all the links etc. unfortunatly all the manuals on the net seem to be for a slightly different type of boring head.
    i think mines must be quite old! dont know is it has reversing capability or not??

    i think that it maybe a no4 morse taper not 3..but it has a 14mm drawbar thread.
    can you get an adaptor to int 40 with a through hole that is fairly short so i dont have too much overhang out of spindle??
    Here's my UPA3 with fixed 4MT taper, with a 4MT-40 taper pass-through adapter. I made a male/female spigot/pull stud, whatever you want to call it, to match the thread and length to standard 40INT tooling.
    whats the spigot like that you made Tim?? could you post some pics??
    any idea on what this is worth?? its in good condition for its age..
    thanks again
    Tom..
    Last edited by scotplant; 11-02-2012, 02:02 PM.

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  • Spin Doctor
    replied
    I don't know what the big deal about their being able to bore a taper is. I always managed to do that

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  • .RC.
    replied
    Here is my Japanese UPA4 clone

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-R3OrOKwnJQ

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  • Timleech
    replied
    Originally posted by scotplant View Post
    sorry!! should have added that it has a drawbar thread but i have saw some with morse taper and a tang, may have been smaller ones though!
    is there a morse 3 taper to int40 adaptor with a hole through it that i could make a drawbar to use with the boring head??
    hope that all makes sense to someone
    Tom..
    Here's my UPA3 with fixed 4MT taper, with a 4MT-40 taper pass-through adapter. I made a male/female spigot/pull stud, whatever you want to call it, to match the thread and length to standard 40INT tooling.




    Tim

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  • Dennis WA
    replied
    Tom...I've sent you an e-mail. I can send you a good pdf copy of:
    OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS FOR WOHLHAUPTER “ UNIVERSAL BORING
    AND FACING HEADS Models UPA 4, UPA 4-S5, UPA 5, UPA 5-S6,
    UPA 6 and UPA 6-S7

    Cheers
    Dennis

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  • Timleech
    replied
    Originally posted by Boucher View Post
    The shank on most boring heads can be changed. If yours cannot then a straight sleeve can be installed. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=214-8709
    This will work if you can accomodate the 1 1/4" OD
    Some of the older Wolhaupters have a fixed shank.

    Tim

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  • IanPendle
    replied
    Hello Tom,

    I have an original manual which covers Up1 to UP3. It's a bit grubby, but still legible. If you think that it would be of any use to you, you can have it FOC. I would be happy to post it to you as I'm in the the UK. Let me know if you want it and if so, PM me your address etc.

    Regards, Ian.

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